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Published: March 21st 2010
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Human Traffic.
Moped madness in Saigon. It's been a long time since my last entry and so much has happened I hardly know where to start. I travelled a gruelling 14 hour bus trip from Siem Reap in Cambodia to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) in South Vietnam. Because I'd lingered over Thailand and Cambodia it only left me with four whole days in Vietnam so I had to make compromises on what I could see of the country. Due to limited time and not wanting to spend most of my last days in Southeast Asia on buses or trains, I had to sacrifice seeing the North of the country, and focussed on the Southern regions near Saigon. I struggled with a strong compulsion to regret all the things I hadn't seen and simply relish all of the places and experiences that time would allow me. It was a metaphor for life!
Saigon is an intensely vibrant, buzzing city, teeming with mopeds. Crossing the road is an exercise in nerve, daring and quick reactions. I spent a few fun filled days there and managed to catch up with a friend from Paris, who took me out and showed me the nightlife which was great. I even
had a chance to practise my dancefloor moves for the first time in ages. I also saw the Mekong Delta region at Mytho and Ben Tre, and saw where the Mighty Mekong, lifeblood of the whole region, makes its branching exit into the South China Sea. I then spent a day at the Vietnamese beach resort of Vung Tao. It wasn't the most picturesque of destinations but I had the novel experience of feeling 'exotic' as a westerner in this predominantly Asian holiday resort. The hotels there manage a bizarre mix of looking ,at once, both opulent and utilitarian.
I even found time to do some voluntary teaching at the Longsay Community School. It was absolutely exhausting teaching in the heat and singing songs, plus actions, with the children. After an hour and a half I was drenched with sweat, but it was worth it. Not something I'd want to do every day, but worth it. The children and staff were fantastic and so eager to learn. The worst bit of the experience was the ride to the school, on the back of a moped through the city streets, in rush hour traffic. Once again it necessitated me regaining
blood flow to my knuckles (and very nearly a change of undergarments) after the 20 minute journey.
It was fascinating to visit this country of total paradox. It is officially a Socialist Republic, with communist propaganda covering billboards along many streets, but is at its heart deeply capitalist. Trade and Money are undoubtedly king here. It is odd to see the duality of a Soviet 'Hammer and Sickle' flag flying next to a huge neon-lit Colonel Sanders of KFC. Nobody else seemed bothered by the contradiction, but I do wonder about the future politics of the country as people seem much more committed to free market policies than they do to socialist ideals.
Anyway, leaving politics behind me, and Southeast Asia for that matter, I continued on to Tasmania - an island state South of mainland Australia. I was based in the city of Hobart, the capital of Tasmania. With the imposing Mount Wellington as its backdrop, the Tasman Sea at its coast and the Derwent river running through it. It is also home to my brother and his young family. It was great to catch up with him and his wife and get to know my niece
and two nephews better.
I went to the top of Mount Wellington, sailed around Bruny Island and saw seals basking on the rocks. I rode the chilly, choppy seas of the South Ocean (next stop Antarctica), and saw apple harvesting and processing in the Huon Valley. I took in the festive, multi-cultural atmosphere at the Estia Greek Festival and had an unexpected close-up encounter with a kangaroo at Seven Mile Beach (not surprisingly, it's a beach which is seven miles long) to the west of Hobart.
I waved a fond farewell to my brother and Tasmania, promising to visit again sometime in the future - finances and circumstances permitting. Then on to Fiji.
My Fiji experience got off to a less than ideal start the morning of my departure from Hobart. It was about 9am - my flight leaving that afternoon - when I learnt that Fiji was at that moment being battered by a Category 4 cyclone. The scale goes from 0 to 5, a state of emergency had been declared and 15,000 people had been evacuated from their homes. All flights into Nadi International Airport had been suspended. Qantas airline was able to tell me
that my flight would be delayed (Duh!?). I went on undeterred, taking my connecting flight from Hobart to Melbourne and trying to remain optimistic about my chances of getting to Fiji.
Compounding my worries about the flight situation was the concern that I would be knowingly flying into a disaster area, which didn't seem like a terribly sensible idea. I arrived at Melbourne Airport at 6.00pm to learn that my flight to Nadi was delayed until 5.40am the following morning. And so, a 12 hour wait at the airport ensued, during which time I was taken under the ample wing of a lovely Fijian woman. She was visiting family in Nadi and also setting up a development project on the main island of Viti Levu . She reassured me that a) cyclones are very common and rarely catastrophic and b) that she had received word from her family that the part of Fiji that we were travelling to first had not taken a direct hit. The area in North Fiji, that I am volunteering on, is another matter but I'll get to that in a subsequent blog entry. I'm leaving for the island of Vorovoro, which was badly damaged,
The Beach.
Musket Cove, Malolo Lailai, Fiji. tomorrow morning and I have already rolled up my proverbial sleeves to pitch in, in the clear-up and rebuilding operation.
So far, in Fiji, since the dramatic start I have been in the Western, (unaffected) Mamunuca Islands and enjoyed a blissful few days. I awoke at 10.30 to my first Fijian morning, after a much needed sleep in a comfy bed, rather than an airport bone cruncher. Whilst the little pouches under my eyes were not so little, I felt refreshed and ready for a day of restorative inaction. I strolled 100 metres and was greeted by a breathtakingly beautiful beach. You know that postcard perfect island scene of graduating aquamarine seas, deserted white sand and coconut trees- that is Musket Cove, on Malolo Lailai island. The beach was mine alone for about an hour and a half (apart from fish frolicking in the shallows and wading seabirds). The sky an intense blue, the verdant hills rolling, and the sea an inviting, glistening turquoise.
I arrived the previous night and hadn't fully appreciated how stunning the island was. I had been feeling a little tired and slightly narked by the presence of so many conspicuously happy honeymooners and
lovers. I got over that quickly though and was able to truly relax and accept the wonderfully warm Fijian hospitality. Everywhere people meet you with wide smiles and the greeting of 'Bula' (Hello). I just love saying it...'Bula' - it sounds so exotic! Needless to say, I've absolutely loved Fiji so far. This is the wet season which means it is hot and humid in the day, and hot and wet in the evening. At present there is torrential rain lashing my internet cafe. But you can be assured that by morning it will be another scorcher.
So, as I mentioned, next stop is Vorovoro - an island in need of 'all hands to the deck' to get the place back in working order. I don't know quite what to expect, but it feels good to be able to help after such devastation. I'll let you know how it goes, when I can. Wish me luck.
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helen julian sam
non-member comment
fiji
Thank you for keeping us up to date with your travells enjoy the rest and come home safely looking forward to seeing you at easter