From Bangkok to Beaches


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Asia » Thailand » Central Thailand » Bangkok
January 28th 2010
Published: February 8th 2010
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So, I'm back in Bangkok! Free of the bed bugs! Now if I thought taking the city bus instead of a taxi was bad idea, you should hear what I do next. Instead of going and getting a nice guesthouse, I decide to take a stroll down memory lane an check into the ol' 160 baht a night guesthouse on the soi right off Khao San Road (see my first travelblog entry). I throw down my bags, and roll into bed, exhausted, but muster up the energy to take one more look int my bag. What do I find? No. Please no. A bed beg. I don't even care. I kill it and fall asleep. I wake up at about 9pm quite confused about life. I've decided I am going to spend a couple of nights in Bangkok, then make my way south to the Full Moon Party to meet up with some friends from P.R. So with these two days I tended to gear up and maybe even take in some new sights.

Honestly, that evening and most of the next day were spent shopping. I bought a couple new pairs of fishermen pants/shorts, I bought a headlamp, I bought a towel (they don't exist on Khao San, I had to go to a proper deparment store), I bought some books, I bought some sunscreen (SPF30, I don't use sunscreen, but I figured if I burn it would at least protect me the next day), and I bought some other useless junk that I hoped would prove useful. So, after waking up confused I took to the town for the evening. I don't recall it being much of an evening out, but I do remember that the whole day I had stuffed myself with greasy delicious foods. From McDonalds to Burger King, to overpriced street-side Indian food, I was tired and disoriented and in a serious mood for some food. I eventually made my way back to my room and passed out, offended of course that I knew there was at least some bed bug activity. Then, in the middle of the night, the most predictable scenario unfolded. I wake up to hear some guy trying to unlock my door using his key. I'm too bothered at this point to say anything, as I'm sure he'll figure it out. He does, finally, and goes onto the next door, and it sounds like he's having similar difficulties, but with the buck passed on I fall back asleep. The next morning is full of surprises. First, I go to brush my teeth and I spot this girl who is absolutely covered in bug bites. I mean, like worse than chicken pox, this girl is in bad condition. But, it isn't until I go back to my room that i overhear her talking, its Bed Bugs. Now my subject of expertise, I go out and chat her and her friends up, and find out that their room is more or less infested. At this point I realize I actually have a few bites, but luckily only a few. The night before I had booked my ticket with a nearby travel agent to go to Ko Pha Ngan, and the lady said that the place i was staying at "used to have bed bugs", and that should have been a clue, but yeah, I ended up sleeping there anyway. The second surprise? Apparently the police had been to our guesthouse to ensure one of the guesthouse guests pay for some damages he caused. What damages? The damage caused to the door he kicked in trying to get into his room. I never did find out if it was even the door to his room or not, I was just glad it wasn't my door.

The next day I puttered about Khao San Road area. I walked in the direction of the Grand Palace, only to be dissuaded by the fact that it would be closed in an hour. I had lunch at the nearby University, Thamasat, and had a boiled chicken on rice, delicious. On my walk back to Khao San I was almost scammed by smooth talking Thai guy claiming to be a local math teacher. He actually was giving me really good advice on places to see, not your stereotypical "Big Buddha, Standing Buddha, T.A.T", but some legitimate sites. I almost bought it until I clued in to the main inconsistency in his story; he was a "math teacher" in Bangkok, and he was speaking fluent English to me about sites to see in Bangkok. Okay, so maybe he's just a genuine guy who knows a few good sites and wants to share them, but there's no way that his English is that good if he's just a "math teacher". So, as soon as our conversation finishes, a tuk-tuk pulls up. Right. But, it was odd, because just before that I had met two other people outside the Grand Palace, who by chance were genuine Thais who I had a bit of a conversation with. Didn't want a thing from me. On my way back to Khao San, I saw a couple of Thai guys eating something I up till then hadn't tried. Deep fried chicken feet. I tried it, but I have to say, not my thing. Just not enough meet on those little chicken feet.

At one point in the day I saw an old friend sitting waiting for the bus. I could definitely just let it pass, but I thought I'd say hello. It was a lady boy I had met before on Khao San Road. Not sure I ver told the story, but I had a flower girl ask me to buy a flower from her on Khao San Road a few years ago when I was here. I was by myself, and explained to the girl that it made no sense that I would buy a flower if I was sitting alone, but told her that if a nice looking girl sat next to me, I would buy her a flower. That "girl" that sat next to me, was this same lady boy sitting waiting for the bus. I had actually talked to her a few times after the flower incident, and its always interesting to see familiar faces. Okay, so it was more odd than refreshing. She explained that she had just finished teaching preschool for the day and was off to the mall, asking me if i wanted to join her. No, thats okay. You sure? Yeah, I'm sure, just hanging around Khao San. "I don't have a cock anymore". Excuse me? ....no no, I hear you. Well, I'm very happy for you. (What else do you say to this?.....) *silence* (what could be a polite way to respond, and even keep the conversation going?) "How much was that?" Well, apparently it was 60,000 baht, or about 2000 dollars, she got a deal she says. Alight then, oh look, there's your bus.

Sorry to have the content jump from "G" to "R" in the matter of a paragraph, but this is just what happened.

So, yeah, I wonder how many more stories like that are forgotten as you let your blogs be unpublished for weeks at a time. So, I ended up just spending one night in Bangkok, and the next evening was my scheduled bus ride for Koh Phangan. And, while I realize this blog is all over the map, I need to add in that on that first night I stayed, I had a Thai massage. Now, if I previous blogs have been G rated, then the stories about the touchy grabby old Thai lady and the Gay masseuse will have been omitted, but I should have at least mentioned that my massages have been going rather poorly. This one seemed to be an exception. The lady was professional, good, and it was from a place that I had another good massage prior. Only issue, the next morning when I woke up, my wrist was absolutely throbbing. Now, to be honest, after going back and forth on the debate (mostly in my head, but also having told people different stories), I still don't know if it was the massage or me sleeping on my wrist that damaged it. But damaged it is/was. As of right now, its 2 weeks later, and it wasn't until yesterday that I could move it with any significance. However, I will note right now (just incase I don't get till the real now till two weeks from now). I've seen a doctor, he gave me some meds, he gave me some hope, and I'm improving. Its "tendonitis", and 3-4 weeks and I should be fine. So where was I? Bangkok.

I booked my ticket to Ko Phangan with a travel agency below my guesthouse. I went in the morning when I first arrived in Bangkok from Phi Mai, and the two younger girls quote me a price of 500 baht to get there, but that I need to book before 9. I decide this is where I want to go, so I come back before 9, only to find the manager working. She wants more money, claiming different its a different company, better, blah blah blah. Not gonna believe that BS ever again. I got the price down, but the company Lamprayah (the bus/boat company) was a total disorganized mess.

We showed up at the bus sorting station. They aren't excepting tickets yet, so you have like 80 people just sitting outside. They tell us to set our bags down in a pile. Then they are accepting people, one by one, and this is after like an hour of sitting. Then we get a sicker that says where we're going and our bus seat, then, finally we shuffled onto a bus after waiting almost 2 hours. And wow, this is where it gets interesting.

So, I get on the bus and start to head upstairs. I get a little tug on my shirt, I turn around and the Thai bus driver points at the number on my shirt "Sit in seat number" (that was honestly probably the only English he knew). Okay, fine, so where's my seat. Well, looks like I've got the worst seat in the house. Sitting right up against the wall (no leg room) and right next to a Thai lady and her daughter (doubling up on a seat, and the only two Thai people on the whole bus). At this point I'm offended, mainly because I want some leg room, and I kinda look around to see if there are any available seats. There are, but after waiting about another hour, those seats are filled by some stragglers. Oh, but the stragglers have luggage. Next thing you know, the path leading from my seat to the bathroom, essentially the entire bottom floor of the bus, is completely covered in luggage. Okay, now I'm actually offended. I try to explain to the baggage handler boy the issue, first in English, then in Thai, he doesn't get it. Well, the bus is moving the movie is on, I guess I'll just try to relax for now. Wait, why are we watching the last 20 minutes of the movie "Wanted". And why are the sounds so off from the footage that when I'd see a gun fired, it wasn't until I was on Ko Phangnan that I would hear it. No, but I can honestly handed that off-time sound, especially since the next movie they are putting on looks decent, Death Race. Considering the fact that I have about half a foot of leg space, and sleep is seeming next to impossible, having a movie on, any movie, is a luxury I'm quite enjoying. So halfway into Death Race, and quite enjoying it, then screen abruptly switches to a blue menu. "Oh", I think, "they must be switching to the second half." Nope. Screen off. Lights out. What, really?

So we stop at a roadside eatery about midnight (these are common on overnight busses). And I try again to explain the baggage on the floor issue (its actually become an issue at this point, as both myself and the lady with her child have had to had mountain climbing expeditions in the dark to use the toilet). Its not getting through to anyone. I don't think a single person speaks English. Fine. I'll do it myself. I found some space, somewhere upstairs, and hauled these massive pieces of jabroni luggage (with my buggered wrist) upstairs and found a home for them.

To be honest. That gave me piece of mind, and while I didn't sleep the whole night, I did manage to get a few hours in. We arrived at the dock at about 5am. We left at 10pm, and thats actually really good time. Chilled out in some beach chairs for a couple of hours and watched the sun rise. It was quite nice. I slept for most of the 3 hour speed boat ride over. The boat was packed, but it was air conditioned and comfortable. Finally, after another haggard journey, at about 2:00pm in the afternoon, I set foot once again on Ko Phangan. My only issue was to stay on one of the nice, quieter beaches, then make my way to the Full Moon Party the night of (about 4 days away), or to go right into the action for the full time there. I decided the later, as I figured travelling alone I would probably end up meeting more people that way. I must say, it was chaos at the docks. People scrambling for taxis, you could feel the fierce competition to find accommodation. It was everyone for themselves. Pretty sure I saw the Thai lady abandon her daughter. Okay, maybe not. But, I got into Haad Rin (The beach town where the full moon party is), and I speedily went ahead of the pack to some bungalows by the beach. They were double what I wanted to pay, and there was no atmosphere. It was at that point that I decided everyone else was already off looking and finding rooms, and that I might as well just take my time now to ensure I got exactly what I wanted. What did I want? I wanted close proximity to the beach, a place with a resteraunt/lounging area with atmosphere, and I wanted it all cheap. And, after trekking around Haad Rin for close to an hour, I finally found what I was looking for: Jaya's Guesthouse. I dropped my bags, did a quick bed bug scan, and took to the beach.



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8th February 2010

awesome read
Hey Brodus...as usual you kept us both engrossed in what you have been up to. Sounds like you are having some pretty interesting adventures.Some good some NOT so good. Bed bugs....ewwwww...You will be checking every bed for the rest of your days...We are getting ready to head off to Mexico...but we are off to MT. Washington to visit Quinn Ryan & Angela first and then we fly out of Comox. We will be home just before you. Will check for more blogs when away...Keep up the great work...we really enjoy the read....as usual stay safe....Love Dad & Donna xo

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