Australia - Brisbane and Byron Bay

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IN A LAND DOWN UNDER!
On Mon 14 Dec at 6.30am we arrived at Brisbane International Airport, Australia! I do not think we had prepared for, or even expected for that matter, the culture shock which was about to hit us square in the face;
Signs in the English language, easy to follow and navigate baggage handling and customs, a train link to city within a sensible walking distance, complete with comprehensive route map / timetable and everybody talking English around us! It was too easy, too simple, too ... different! We stood there like a couple of fish out of water, mouths agape, eyes wide and staring. Never in a million years did I expect arriving in Australia would be such a culture shock! I guess after three months of the Far East and then around South East Asia we had just become accustomed to the rather strange and frantically chaotic way of life! The problem now, it was so ... well ... it was just a little boring!!

This view was only cemented further upon arrival at our new age backpacker hostel in Brisbane - 'Bunk'. More like an eighteen thirty's holiday camp than a hostel, complete with in room speaker announcements for the evenings activities and games - it was awful! Yes, clean sheets and water you could actually brush your teeth with rather than utilising a bottle was much improved, however, it was just too touristy and just full of kids wanting to drink and party rather than wishing to explore a foreign land (My god - how old do I sound!) but I think that was the main problem, I had been to Oz ten years ago on the backpacker circuit and it was pretty established then. Now, it was like a cattle market, everyone being herded from one place to the next not having to make a decision for themselves or even have to think for themselves - everything was pre-arranged and pre-sorted. Quite frankly, my idea of hell!!

Feeling rather deflated and uninspired and just a little pessimistic about our next few weeks in Oz, less than 24hrs later (7am Tues 15 Dec) we decided to move straight on, catching the express bus South to our next stop (and hopefully settle in a little more) in the very chilled and relaxed prior hippy commune of Byron bay.

BYRON BAY
Home to the lighthouse which marks the most Easterly point of the Australian mainland, this was one of the highlights of my previous trip down the East coast. Gorgeous sandy beaches with perfect clear water are attributes distinguishing this small town which is located at the end of a long sweeping bay. Although much larger than when I last came, it still had a really laid back, small community feel but now with more restaurants, bars and even some boutique hotels and shops. Bryon Bay was a delight! It restored our faith a little in travelling through Oz. We checked in to 'Main Beach Backpackers' a friendly, welcoming (although still quite a party style) hostel. I have to say it astonishes me that after travelling through South East Asia this time, the quality of the hostels was tremendous, they were nearly all exceptionally clean and made a great effort to make you feel at home. They 'went the extra mile' to make your stay comfortable and enjoyable. In direct contrast to this the hostels in Oz seemed to be too complacent, they know they have a phenomenal number of backpackers (predominately teenagers or early twenties as Oz is the safest and easiest place for a first timer to travel round) and well, they just take the rip - they get people staying at the hostel to clean it in exchange for a nights free accommodation. In my humble opinion a teenager doesn't really clean efficiently when they want to - couple this with a teenager who doesn't want to clean you get a mop simply moving the dirt around the bathroom, two hoover stripes down the centre of the dorm rooms with no effort to get into the corners let alone under the beds and layers of dust and dirt so thick in the corners that it must have been accumulating for a minimum of five years! Disgusting!

THE STALKERS
We loved Byron and even attended the local gym every day we were there (the Bodypump classes were fab - got some great tips and teaching styles to try out ;-)) Also tried new class called Zomba ... bit like BodyJam but most definitely not for two left feet me - haha! Despite the great surroundings and activities due to the poor cleanliness of the accommodation we had intended to move on after two nights. However, on Thurs 17 Dec, Derek and Leanne arrived, the lovely couple from Glasgow who we met and traveled with in China ... yeap, the stalkers!! Well, the next two days were spent in bent over double hilarity with far too much drink and mischievous shenanigans!!

I did manage to coerce the treble trio into a 'short stroll' to the light house. Over an hour uphill later and after much whinging from the boys who wanted to remain in the pub, we reached the lighthouse marking the most easterly point of the Australian mainland and spent a lovely evening there as the sunset.

Thankfully, we managed to persuade the girl on reception to jig the room situation about a bit and fit Derek and Leanne into our 6 bed dorm making it a little more habitable. The other two lads in the dorm were long timers meaning they were staying at the hostel for a few months whilst working in Bryon (so belongings strewn everywhere as it was home for them!). One of the lads, Danny was from Manchester and was hilarious, however, the other Joel was Swedish and a pleasant enough lad during the day but he worked in a bar at night, got really drunk and returned every morning at 3.30am, turned on all the lights, made loads of noise knocking into things (typically my bed with his head) and then usually passed out ... I'm definitely getting too old for dorming!!

On our last night in Bryon Paul, Derek, Leanne and I decided to check out the insalubrious nightlife which Joel raved about so much. Actually, despite reservations, we did have a great laugh and ended up in a bar called Coco Mangos. We were asked for proof of age on the way in ... there is a god!! And as I was a little cheeky to the doorman he gave me a token and told me it was for a 'Jam Jar', thinking I had misheard I asked him to repeat what he said and he replied; 'Jam Jar'. I thought he must have been teasing until I entered and handed in the token. What was passed over the bar to me?? Yep, you have got it ... a Jam Jar! I have no idea what the sweet sticky red coloured liquid in the jar was (well I knew it wasn't jam) but it was gorgeous!!! Check out the photo of it!!

Determined not to waste my final token for our temporarily gym membership, I left the bar as the night was just getting into full swing and hit the sack. A few hours later, the very drunken and giddy posse of Derek, Leanne and Paul rolled in!

I woke, fresh as a daisy and ready to do the gym's double header of Spin and Pump on Fri 18 Dec. Three very enjoyable hours later and after having showered at the gym because it was much cleaner than the hostel, I returned back at midday to find ... yep, you have guessed it, the three lazy sod's were still in bed! Very, very hungover! Whoops! Perhaps on my way back from the gym I should have checked in with them before booked us all a surfing lesson for 2pm later that afternoon!!

After much persuasion and cajoling I managed to coax the three of them out for breakfast, through which none of them spoke for the entire hour so I found a book to read. After much debate they decided that they would fight the nausea and the banging headaches to give the surfing a go and we headed off to the 'Black Dog Surfing Co'.

EVERYBODY'S GOING SURFING!!!!
The hardest part about surfing was carrying the very heavy boards for what felt like miles across an extremely hot sandy beach (walking on hot coals would have been cooler!!). The best part of the surfing was that we all managed to stand up on the board and catch at least a couple of waves!

Paul absolutely loved the surfing, I think Derek enjoyed it too, whereas Leanne and I just thought it was OK, an enjoyable day but I do not think I would take it up as a hobby. This could be down to the terminally boring instructor who I can most definitely say without a shadow of a doubt was THEEE WORST instructor I have ever come across. His attitude was despicable - he could plainly not be bothered to be there, or even converse with us. When he did he spoke in a monotone voice with ... such ... a ... long ... pause ... in ... between ... each ... word, that he sounded like a whind up toy that needed whinding up!! My other main justification for only a partial enjoyment of the sport was due to the fact I hate water and can't really swim and if you flipped off the board hitting a wave wrong it was usually very dramatic looking (and totally unladylike!) as you hit the water head or bottom first and were sucked into what they appropriately called the washing machine. Being hurtled round not knowing top from bottom of the Ocean, with salty sea water in your eyes, up your nose and in your ears was not the most fun experience I have ever had!! Still it was a good day out and it certainly cleared Derek, Paul and Leanne's hangovers - haha! Don't think they will let me out on my own anymore for fear of what I will have signed us up for by the time I return!!

Byron Bay was great, I admit a large factor was the excellent company but the place itself still had loads of character and much appeal. Only downside was it was a designated stop on the main backpacker East coast route, subsequently, after waving Derek and Leanne off yet again on Sat 19 Dec (but no drama as we were meeting up in a few days to all celebrate Crimbo together) we decided to head inland and to a place where no true backpackers would venture ... the Hunter Valley Vineyards and wineries!!!

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Photos

Great artwork to cover Electric box
Byron Bay

Stalkers
Derek & Leanne

Jam Jar
When they said your free drink was a jam jar I didn't think they meant it literally!!

Storm
As we left Byron Bay a massive storm approached

Comments

[Barbara]

Byron Bay?
Good to see you're enjoying Aussieland! I always thought that Byron Bay was a "spiritual" place - different interpretation than yours - the wrong spirits!!! Missing you lots! lots of love, light and hugs, Barbara and George! xxx