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Published: January 16th 2010
The jetty was a busy place, with several boats docked at once. Local men plodded by carrying huge bags of food and crates of drink to the boats. Once everything was loaded in our long boat, we had to climb on and negotiate our way over bags of vegetables, bales of eggs and huge ice blocks to take our seat on a wooden plinth at the back of the boat. The skipper launched forth once all the passengers were aboard and we were amazed at the size of the motor propelling us towards Ko Chang.
It was a special boat trip, for many reasons, but mostly because we enjoyed being part of the shopping process. As we chugged away from the jetty we passed an eery boat graveyard, and many big fishing boats that were returning after their days work. The motor ploughed on through the brown water, occasionally suffering from the weight of its load, but made it as far as the island. As we neared the island a man in a small kayak set off from the beach and pulled up along side the boat. Crates of beer and bags of food were handed over the side of
the boat and he deftly fitted them all in around him, before exchanging some cash and rowing back to shore. The food transfer continued at each new area of beach as the call went out for the locals to come to the boat to pick up their shopping. There was no horn or bell, and no need for it. Everyone came running once they heard the boat approach.
Local children were carrying bags that were nearly twice their size. Men waded out to the water and accepted bags containing huge slabs of ice onto their shoulders. The local women also took the ice bags, and my jaw dropped when I saw one woman raise the bag up to her head and carry it there while wading through the water. The boat emptied quickly after each stop, and eventually it was just the captain and us and our luggage. He pulled us in to a beach and we rolled up our trousers to hop of the ladder into the ocean. We had none of the grace and poise of locals when we were handed our luggage, and it was a very close call as to whether I would have dry
clothes that evening!
We were met at the boat by a lady who introduced herself as Soi. She had two bungalows with our names on them. One by the beach and one up on the hill. Karin and Charles opted for the sea view as Philippe and I followed a young girl up to our lodgings. I must admit I breathed a sigh of relief when I saw the bungalow. Yes it had the feel of a 'shack', but it was a charming shack with a double bed, including mosquito net, en-suite bathroom and a little veranda looking out towards the sea. There was no air conditioning, but with a fresh breeze coming in off the sea, we didn't miss it. In time we would learn that the toilet was a manual flush (i.e. no cistern) and the shower only supplied cold water, but these too were surmountable challenges, and added all the more to the charm of the location.
We dumped our bags and went to investigate Karin and Charles bungalow, and all things compared, the only difference was the view. They were as happy with it as us, and we set off to find a bite
to eat.
Mama 'Soi' also runs 'Mama's restaurant' which it turned out served fabulously delicious meals for half nothing. Our enchantment with the resort was cemented when we were told about the honesty system. Each couple was handed a book and told to write down anything we ate or drank. They would tot it up at the end. We could help ourselves to drinks from the icebox and as we examined the menu we realised that we were spoiled for choice.
It is difficult to describe what we did while on the island, but in a nutshell we ate and drank like pigs. Charles said the boho feel to the island reminded him of the 70's. Much of the clientele looked like they preferred to make love not war, and sported pony-tails and Hawaiian shirts and there was often a strange smell wafting in the air.
We each bought a 4euro hammock for the verandas and swung from them to our heart content. The first afternoon passed in a blur of euphoria. The Counets took a swim in the sea, reporting the water to be 'perfect', and then we gathered back in the restaurant for sunset and
drinks on the terrace. After four tasty meals the playing cards were produced and a new game was explained. Playing in teams by candlelight we whiled away the evening, getting progressively competitive as the icebox emptied.
On New Year's Eve we went to discover a bit more of the island. Taking a path over the island from our beach to the next one, we caught a taste of what local life on the island must be like. The island is only habitable for six months of the year, due to the monsoon season. Some houses had electricity from photovoltaic panels but I can't imagine that they produced enough for a full day. Tourism appeared to be the only business on the island, but day to day life for inhabitants appeared to my eyes to be relatively carefree. As we walked up Aow Yai beach, we passed by a Hindu Temple where preparations we underway for a big party that evening. A local volleyball and soccer tournament was being played, with the trophies to be awarded later that night. Local boys were playing their hearts out, and a nice crowd of supporters were egging them on.
After cokes to
relieve our thirst and a dip in the water to relieve the heat, we turned and made our way back to Mama's, where she was preparing a feast for us that night. We had given 24hours notice, and ordered a Fondue Bourguignon, given the night that was in it. After a failed attempt by Karin and I to get a massage on the beach (the mosquitoes were out in force), we regrouped at the restaurant. As night fell we were called outside the restaurant and shown an impressive spread set up on an outdoor platform. Oil was spitting dangerously in a wok held over a cement grate. Each of us were handed some long forks and a plate full of raw meat. Sauces kept appearing, then fried vegetables, fried potatoes...anything we might want.
As we shined our torches on the skewers to determine when the meat was cooked, we laughed, knowing that we couldn't have imagined this scenario at the same time last year. Soi's daughter, most of the staff and several of the patrons went off to the party in the temple. Soi was left minding her adorable grand-daughter Lim for the night, and she delighted in playing
with her beside us.
As the clock ticked closer to midnight, more cards were played by candlelight to crown the champion of 2009. The other guests began to sing baritone and we moved to the seaside veranda. The year finished, we raised our glasses and blocked our ears to the racket made by the fireworks let off near the Temple. Moment later we saw beautiful candle kites rising and disappearing into the clouds. We rang home and wished them a happy new year (despite it only being the mid-afternoon there), and said another toast to our adventures. Long may they continue.
The new year started with a luxurious massage for Karin and I. Six euros bought us a one hour oil massage on the beach with the sea lapping as our background music. I can't imagine I will be as relaxed again this year as I was for that hour, but it sure was a nice way to start the proceedings.
That evening we decided to prolong the relaxation for an extra night and luckily the bungalows were available. We weren't ready to leave our paradise yet, and Charles wasn't ready to leave the 70's behind.
We spent one final glorious day oblivious to the goings on in the outside world before we had to pack-up and pay up. The bungalows cost six euros per couple per night. We had managed to eat and drink only a further 28euros worth per couple per day. It was ridiculously cheap given the service we had experienced, but we paid up and bid our hosts farewell as we rolled up our trousers again and waded out to the long-boat.
It was an amazing break from reality and a wonderful way to welcome in 2010.
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Eileen
non-member comment
Mama's cottages sound as nice as home, without the boat trip