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Published: October 10th 2009
The Boda Boda experience
David na Boda Boda.... boli to velmi vzrusujuce jazdy...ENGLISH
Sadly things have taken a turn for the worst. We've not eaten in days and are sleeping on the streets. We've had to turn our skills to street crime just to get by........ Hehehehe, only joking.
After our bus ride to Kampala we woke up at Red Chili Hideaway to very heavy rain. We got dressed and went to have breakfast. The place wasn't that friendly so we decided to move and find somewhere else. We packed and took a taxi to UWA (Ugandan Wildlife Authority) to buy permits to see the Gorillas. $1000 later, we booked a 1 hour visit with Mummy and Daddy Gorilla on 22nd September. BOSH!
With our rucksacks on our back, we mounted a boda boda each (125cc motorcycle). It was definitely the cheapest and the most exciting way of getting around the city. It really was an unforgettable experience. How these guys make their bumble bee driven chariots reach unfathomable speeds whilst threading through Kampala's chaos that is their style of traffic jam is quite incredible and should be experienced by all. Also the constant fear of being knee-capped on every other vehicle just adds to the exhilaration.
Once we
had reached our new penthouse suite we dumped our luggage and went to find a bus to take us to Kisoro (very near the Impenetrable Forest National Park(which is in fact penetrable)). Our hotel, “L'Hotel Fiancé” was located probably in one of the worst places in Kampala. Going outside was just like walking into a swarm of wasps - you don't know which one will sting you first. It was the first time I didn't feel 100% safe and was holding onto David very very tightly.
We had read that there were two local companies that would be able to further the progress of our explorations. The coaches all looked the same to be honest. Chuho coaches ran a very commendable service to Kisoro. On our arrival at the coach park, the sky that was surrounding the Chuho coach was illuminated by the welding talents of a local school child with a pair of Dolce and Gabanna sun glasses protecting his eyes from the wild sparks. But apparently, the bus would get there just as quickly with 3 wheels. We turned and left. We then found Horizon Coaches up the hill in the old town. The station was surrounded
by millions of people with massive hay bale like sacks filled with clothes. These were all going on the bus - somewhere. We booked a bus ride for the following day. Kisoro here we come!!!
There was good news and bad news about this bus. The good news was that Paster Musoumi wasn't a passenger. However, on this bus (the same size as the other one) they managed to squeeze on an extra 25 seats and these were like sitting on a branch. The journey was over night but a chance of having a little sleep was just impossible. Seriously, the roads in Uganda are as close as it gets to driving on the Moon... having been there at least twice. However, we need to take a leaf out of the African bus maintenance handbook, these claustrophobic over-seated bobsleighs seem to last and last no matter what you do with them.
We arrived at Kisoro at 6am with David as grumpy as hell! He just wanted to go to sleep even if it meant going to sleep under a tree........ with the countless goats! The funny thing was, when we arrived in Kisoro we were surrounded by calls
Wizzing through the Traffic
David na Boda Boda v Kampale of “TAXI?” and “BODA BODA?”. We're still in our seats at this stage. We collect our luggage and are still surrounded by these vocal motor vehicle assistants. “Where you going my friend?”. We're staying at a motel that is only 30ft away. “Graceland” we say. “Let me take you there... “. Graceland hasn't moved and is still only 30ft away “I think we'll be fine!” We woke up the guy who runs Graceland, had a shower a hit the sheets. We stayed there for 1 night.
The next day we hired a taxi to take us to Nkuringo camp which is where we'd see the Gorillas. Again the journey was very bumpy and 36km took 1hour 30min. The scenery was just amazing.. dramatically undulating, lusciously green, mountainsides. We pitched our tent at the camp which was great as we were then joined by the most relentless rain. I suppose it was to be expected, we were in a rain forest after all! After the rain we went to the local village where we met several children. After talking to them the mother of a young lad joined us. She was holding her second child that had been born that
Madness in Kampala next to the Bus Station
Velmi blizko autobusovej stanice ked sme boli ako v roji vciel morning. She never made to the hospital for the delivery so with her mother assisting, she gave birth in the back room. She was up and walking that same day and sat with us for an hour chatting about village life in Uganda. That sort of thing is pretty special. We also had a chat with some other local mums and gave their children some chocolate. In exchange we received a mug carved out of single piece of wood and a delicately woven mini basket from the Father who had returned after celebrating the birth that day. Very nice of them! We returned to camp where dinner was shortly being served. Dinner at the camp was apparently Spaghetti Bolognese - with it being David's favorite'ist meal ever ever, he was a little disappointed when he received rice and beef stew... quite funny these Ugandians!
Thursday 22 Sep - we woke up early in the morning a met at Nkuringo UWA HQ with 5 other eager explorers. They were all much older than us so we felt pretty confident with the whole “Nkuringo is one of the most difficult group of Gorillas to find as you need to climb very
View from the Panoramic Cafe
pohlad na Kampalu z Panoramic Cafe steep hill about a mile down”. It turned out that 3 of them had been the day before and had had a great time.
So off we went, 7 Mzungu's (white man) with porters and 2 guides. It took 2.5 hours climbing up and down the hills in beautiful sunshine, walking through cool rivers and sticky mud with David falling over quite dramatically. After chatting and yomping, yomping and chatting we finally saw a huge black monster of a Gorilla eating in a vine covered tree just meters away. We both just couldn't believe what we were looking at. You just forget that you're in the wild. There are no cages, no plaques with various snippets of Gorilla info. You're sharing a jungle clearing with a 170cm, 220kg hairy Gorilla. The distance between us and the Gorillas should be a Minimum of 7mtrs so seeing them 3 meters away was just incredible. They were enormous and with so many similar mannerisms to humans. We do share 97% of the same DNA, some of us nearer 100%! It's just the way they look at you, the way they interact with each other, the way they smoke and dress... Their educational
system is not quite as advanced and they're still using squat toilets. But hey, it just added to the experience.
We first saw some male Gorillas playing in a tree. Mummy was with a baby feeding just a few feet below us. A young 15 year old Silverback was also very very close. We were right in the bloody middle of this 18 strong family. A few cracks and snaps of branches and the Silverback just casually passed by. Everything was so close. We watched the Silverback doing his thing (labeling his herb collection in the well appointed kitchen) in spellbound awe and taking far to many pictures. We were very slowly changing our positions to get a view at another group when David, who was sitting on the floor and could have easily been mistaken for an ape of sorts, was joined, all of a sudden, by a Blackback (13yrs) who sat right next to him. He said that he could feel his warmth and was almost touching his arm. After David had exchanged stories with the Blackback, about 30 secs later, one of the guides asked him to slowly move backwards just in case anything happened. This
was truly quite amazing. Moving about 3 meters to the left we came across a whole family of Gorillas sitting and grooming each other. Mummy Gorilla had twins which were only 3 months old and funnily enough they looked exactly alike!! Seeing about 10 Gorillas in the same place all relaxing and just being a close family with babies, teenagers, Mums and Dads was indescribable, unless you've actually been to the Lewis Household. Quiet and mellow we watch them play and stayed close. Eyes popping up to see us, leaves being munched and Mummy doing her level best to keep the twins clean. It's something you can't describe, a feeling you wont understand unless you do it yourself.
The hour passed in the blink of an eye. The guide whispers that we have one more minute left. The cameras go mad for the last time. Zuzana's camera actually had steam coming out of it! We sit there and take it in. There are Gorillas literally 2ft away. We turn and slowly head back down the hillside through, actually, quite impenetrable jungle before I fell on my ass at the bottom for the second time. I was very confidently trying
to demonstrate some secure footholds for a middle aged lady descending behind me. She was well advised to take a different last step! The journey back was a steep ascent. Being young we were fine, our hearts and lungs worked hard and we burnt several thousand calories but we made it. For me it was a quiet journey back. I was just dumbstruck by this once in a lifetime experience. Spending time with these most peaceful yet powerful of mammals just puts you back in your place on this shared planet earth of ours.
We head back to HQ and receive our Gorilla Tracking certificates and all pose for picture. A great moment. We had a lovely group of trekking buddies. The elder chap, Steve, reminded me of my Uncle Bernie and we really got on during our time together. Him and his wife Claudia said that if they were in Mexico when we get there, we could go round for a visit. They were just lovely people. We got back to camp, took a “shower” in a washing up bowl had a cup of lovely tea and relaxed. What a day!
We stayed at the camp for
This how 'they' do it!
Takto sa to musi robit!!! a few more days just to take stock and absorb some of this amazing country. We were about 7300ft in the air with nothing around us, not even electricity. I sent my Father the co-ordinates and height and he tracked us on Google Earth, he even found the campsite. It's good to know that the Earth is not that big, everyone is always a phone call away.
On a day of our departure we called Emmanuel (our hired taxi) who came to pick us up 2 hours later. In the car I was watching the life around us and saw how some people work so very hard to earn very little money. Men pushing their bicycles loaded with several bunches of bananas or massive sacks of charcoal or just planks of wood in 30 odd degrees celsius. Pushing everything up the hill on an awful road, sweating and tired. Women were carrying baskets of potatoes on their heads with no problem whatsoever. How they do it? I really don't know. We were told by Emmanuel that some men can carry 100kg sacks full of potatoes on their head! It's a very different world here.
We returned to Kisoro,
went to see the local market that had arrived in town, had some fantastic guacamole with a chapatti at Countryside Guesthouse and then went to bed early as the same bus trip eagerly awaited us the next morning. We really liked this little Wild West town of Kisoro. Very peaceful, with one bank, internet cafe and one corner shop run by some Indian Brothers which made me smile. Everyone was very friendly and there was a real feel good atmosphere. Early morning we headed back to Kampala - another 10 hours spent on the Fun Bus.
In Kampala we stayed at the New City Annex Hotel which was bloody lovely. We got some clothes washed and Zuzana took a shine, to the style, of one of the waitresses hairdo and decided to have a go. The same day we head into town and find a salon that was recommended by the waitress. As we stood outside of the salon about 10 women came out asking what would she wants to have done. She was then marched in surrounded by all of them. They were fascinated. Mzungu.... Here?
6.... yes, 6hrs later and she had been completely transformed into
Local Nkuringo Children
Miestne deti v nedalekej Nkuringo dedinke Queen Latifah Mgombwe. While she was being transformed, her hair had been touched by at least 20 local ladies. Apparently Mzungu don't go to their salon very often. As you can see by the picture... she's completely different. I took me a while to get used to it at first but I got there. She's like that, she'll try anything once! Oh Aye!
2 nights later we were leaving this amazing country called heart of Africa and heading back to Kenya - Nakuru. We really enjoyed Uganda and would definitely want to return here again. Fantastic people with a more relaxed style to life. We loved it! We're now in Zanzibar. We arrived this afternoon on a very rough boat ride involving some chunder. But we'll post about that soon.
Love to all
Us
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SLOVENSKY
Po dlhej ceste do Kampaly sme sa rano zobudili do velmi silneho dazda. Obliekli sme sa, rychla studena sprcha a sli sme si dat nieco na ranajky. Zamestnanci v tomto Hosteli neboli az tak velmi priatelsky, tak sme sa rozhodli zmenit lokaciu. Zavolali sme si taxi, ktore nas zaviezlo do UWA (Uganda Wildlife Authority - Ugandska Prirodna Autorita).
The long hike down... and Fred the local Porter
Velmi dlha streka dolu kopcom ... a Fred - nas nosic To je miesto, kde sme sa kupuju licencie ku Gorilam. Takze $1000 dolarov neskor, sme mali zabooknutu 1 hodinu s maminou a tatkom Gorilami na 22 Septembra. Supeer!!!
S nasimi obroskymi ruksakami sme sa vystverhali na tzv. “boda boda” (125cc motorky). To bol definitivne ten najlacnejsi a najvzrusujuci sposob dopravy v tomto hlavnom meste. Ako ti chalani dokazu tich svojich tatosov rozpumpovat do obrovskej rychlosti v dopravnom chaose je celkom neuveritelne a vsetci by to mali vyskusat pri navsteve Kampaly. Taktiez neustaly strach ze narazite svoje kolena do okoloiducich aut len k tomu vzruseniu pridava.
Ked sme sa ubytovali v nasom novom palaci, nechali sme si batoziny na izbe a sli sme najst autobus, ktory nas zoberie do Kiroso (velmi blizko Bwindi Narodny Park kde uvidime Gorily). Nas L'Hotel Fiance bol umiestneny pravdepodobne v tej nejhorsej casti Kampaly. Ist von bolo ako keby ste vstupili do roja osi - len ste cakali, ktora pichne prva. To bolo aj prvy krat, ked som sa necitila 100% bezpecne a drzala som sa Davida ako kliest.
V nasej prirucke sme si precitali, ze je tam niekolko autobusovych firiem, ktore nam mozu pomoct v pokracovni nasho dobrodruzstva. Ked mam ale pravdu
First sighting of Mother and Baby
Jeden z prvych pohladov na mamicku Gorilu a jej dieta povedat, stav vsetkych autobusy vyzera rovnako. Chuho autobusy odchadzaju kazdy den o 7hod. vecer. Pri nasom prichode do arealu sme videli ako jeden chlapik zvaruje nieco na autobuse oci od iskier si kryje s detskymi slnecnymi okuliarm Dolce & Gabanna. Zevraj autobus sa tam dostane len s 3 kolesami v takom istom case. Potom sme nasli Horizon autobusy. Stanica bolo obkolesena milionmi ludi, muzi, zeny s detmi a vsetci na nas pozerali. Na zemi boli obkoleseni s obrovskymi, ale fakt myslim obrovskymi mechami plne satov a ktovie coho ineho. Vsetky tieto mechy sa museli nejako vopchat do autobusu. Tak sme si kupili 2 listky do Kisora na dalsi den.
Mame dobru a zlu spravu o tomto autobuse. Dobra sprave je, ze paster Masoumi nebol cestujuci. Zla sprava ale je, ze v tomto autobuse (ktory je takej istej velkosti ako ten z Nairobi) vtesnali dalsich 25 sedadiel navyse a tieto boli trvde ako keby ste sedeli na konari. Cesta bola cez noc, ale zaspat bolo uplne nemozne. Povrch ciest v Ugande je ako keby ste soferovali na Mesiaci (kedze som tam uz bola 2 krat). Taktiez by sme si od Ugandiancov mali vypozicat prirucku na opravu motorovych vozidiel, lebo tieto
klaustrofobicke autobusy vydrzia uplne vsetko. Co je uplne neuveritelne, lebo len pohlad na cesty je dost na to, aby ste si povedali, ze ziadne motorove vozidlo nema sancu na prezitie. Neviem, ci to je tym, ze Toyota je velmi dobra znacka aut lebo sa zda ze v celej Vychodnej Afrike 90% vestkych aut je Toyota, 5% Nissan a konecncych 5% su ine znacky.
Cesta trvala 10 hodin a do Kisora sme prisli o 6hod rano. David bol najedovany jak hovado. Bol tak strasne unaveny, ze by mohol zaspat pod najblizsim stromom..... so stadom koz okolo neho. Sranda bola, ze ked nas autobus zastavil, vonku uz cakali taxikari a boda boda chlapici, vosli do autobusu a zacali nam ponukat ich sluzby. My sme nemali sancu ani vyjst von. Ha ha ha tu je to ale normalne. Jeden taxikar trval na tom, ze nas odvezie do Graceland Motelu, (do ktoreho sme sa sli ubytovat) ktory bol len 100m od stanice. Tak sme mu vysvelili, ze mame nohy a ze si tych 100m prejdeme. Zobudili sme chlapika, ktory mal Motel na starosti, osprchovali sme sa v studenej vode a po nocnej ceste bez zazmurenia oka sme si schrupli na par hodin. Ked
sme sa zobudli okolo obeda, tak sme sli nasjt niekoho, kto nas zoberie do hor - do Nkuringo Kempu, lebo tam ziadna miestna doprava nejazdi. Nasli sme Emmanuela, ktory nam dal najlepsiu cenu a dohodnuti sme boli na dalsi den.
Nkuringo Kemp je miesto z ktoreho budeme stopovat Gorily. Cesta v horach bola este viac rozbita a 36km nam zobralo 1 hod 30 minut. Vyhlad bol ale uplne uzasny.... (ved posudte na fotkach). Postavili sme si stan a hned zachvilu sa spustil silny dazd. Nie je sa comu cudovat - ved sme v dazdovom pralese! Ked prestalo prsat, chceli sme preskumat okolie, tak sme sa vybrali blizkej malej dedinky. Tam sme stretli niekolko deticiek a jedna mamicka nam ukazala male dievcatko, ktore sa narodilo v ten isty den o 7 hod rano. Ziadna nemocnica, a ci sa mamicka citi fajn alebo nie.... Ona porodila v jej dome uplne bez nicoho, s pomocou jej mamy. Mali sme lentilky, tak sme ich s radostou porozdavali detom. Na oplatku sme od otca toho 1 denneho dievcatka dostali pohav vyrezany z dreva pre David a ja som dostala uplnetenu malu misku. Stravili sme asi hodinku kecanim o ich zvykoch a ich zivote a
potom sme sa vratili naspat do kempu na veceru.
Stvrtok 22 Septembra - sme rano vstali a a vyrazili sme do miestneho UWA officu (dom postaveny z blata ako kazdy iny dom), kde sa sa stretli s dalsimi 5-timi “Mzungu” (beloch). Dovolena je iba jedna skupina za den, s maximalnum poctom 8 ludi My sme boli ti najmladsi v tej nasej, takze sme boli sebavedomi, ze nebudeme mat s cestou problem. Aj ked sme poculi najst rodinku Goril v Nkuringo, nie je jednoduche a mali by ste by v dobrej kondicii. V nasej vyprave sme mali 3 Americanov, ktory videli Gorily den predtym a tak sa im to pacilo, ze zaplatili dalsich 500 dolarov kazdy a sli este raz.
Takze sme vyrazili 7 Mzungu s nosicmi a 2 stopari. Oni to robia tak, ze rano okolo 7hod vyrazili 2 stopari a stopovali Gorily z toho isteho miesta, kde boli den predtym. Potom sa vysielackami spojili so stoparmi, ktori boli s nami a povedia nam kde sa Gorily nachadzaju. Len aby som vas dala do obrazu - existuje niekolko typov Goril, ale tie, na ktore sme sa sli pozriet su “Horske Gorily” a tieto mozete vidiet len v Rwande,
Congu a Ugande. Horske Gorily su jeden z najviac ohrozenych druhov zvierat na svete a v prirode ich je len vyse 600. V minulosti ich ludia vyzabijali, lebo si mysleli, ze Gorily su obrovske monstra, ktore su agresivne a utocia na cloveka (vid King Kong). Pritom Gorlily su velmi pasivne zvierata a bylinozravci. Vdaka ich ochrane od 80tych rokov ich pocet velmi pomalicky stupa, co je super!
Tak vratme sa naspat... Trvalo to 2 ½, slapanie v krasnom slniecku, cez studene rieky a lepkave blato, ked sme konecne videli cierne monstrum v korunach stromov. Hned zabudnete, ze ste v prirode. Tam neboli ziadne mreze, ziadne bariery a ziadne tabulky s informaciami o Gorilach. Vy si delite junglu so 170cm a 220kg chlpatymi Gorilami. Vzdialenost medzi nimi a clovekom by mal by minimalne 7 metrov, takze ked sme ich videli 3 metre od nas, bol to uzasny zazitok. Oni boli obrovske a tak strasne podobne cloveku. Ved nie je divu, ked mame 97% nasho DNA take iste ako oni.
Najprv sme videli samca Gorily a potom mamicku s mladatom, ktori si pochutnavali na listoch stromov a boli len niekolko metrov od nas. Potom sme poculi praskanie konarov a videli
This young lad came and sat next to me, how very lovely!
Tento Blackback si sadol velmi blizko Davida a len tak si narychlo pokecali sme mladeho Silverbacka, ktory len tak lezerne presiel okolo nas. Rodiny Goril funguju takto:
Silverback (samec so striebornymi chlpami na chrbte) je dominantny vodca skupiny. Ked mladi samci Blackback dovrsia 15 rokov zacnu sa im menit cierne chlpy na chrbte na strieborne -vtedy zacnu samci spolu superit a poziciu vodca. Ked mlady samec prehra musi opustit rodinu zalozit si novu. Ked ale vyhra, stava sa novym vodcom a niekedy sa stane ze zabije vsetky mladata a zacne s uplne novou generaciou. Pocet clenov rodiny, ktoru sme navstivili bolo 19. Vsetko sa dialo tak uplne blizko nas. Fotila som tak strasne, ze sa z fotaku zacalo dymit. Ked sme velmi pomalicky prechadzali z jednej pozicie na druhu a David sedel na zemi, zrazu jeden Blackback (samec) sa k nemu prida a sadne si hned vedla neho. David mi neskor povedal, ze cilil teplotu jeho tela a keby natiahol trochu ruku, tak by sa ho dotkol. Ked si s nim pokecal a vymenili si narychlo adresy, jeden zo stoparov mu povedal, ze sa musi vzdialit, keby sa nohodou nieco stalo. On bol uplne v siedmon nebi a nemohol uverit svojmu stastiu. Potom sme presli par metrov dolava a videli sme vacsinu clenov
The 3mth old twins.... Cliff and Clara
3 mesacne dvojicky - jeden je chlapec a druhe dievca rodinky, ktory sedeli vedla seba, prehrabali sa vo svojich kozucho a cistili sa. Bola tam mamina, ktora mala 3 mesiace stare dvojicky a sranda bola, ze vyzerali uplne rovnako. Pozerat na 10 clenov rodiny na jednom mieste, ako relaxuju a sa hraju, mamicky a tatkovia, babatka, deti a teenageri bolo uzasne. Je to nieco co sa neda popisat, je to nieco comu nikto nebude rozumiet dovtedy kym to neuvidi na vlastne oci.
Jedna hodina presla ako rychlik.a jeden zo stoparov vyhlasil ze nam zostava jedna minuta. Fotaky rychlo zachytavaju posledne snimky. Velmi pomalicky sa otocime a zacneme slapat naspat. Ako sme zostupovali dole cez stromy a kriky, David ukazoval jednej pani kam slapat a zrazu skoncil na jeho zadku. Uz druhy krat!!! Taky bol spinavy, ze vyzeral ako keby s jednou tou Gorilou zapasil! Aspon tej pani ukazal ako sa to nema robit! Ha ha ha.
Cesta naspat bola narocnejsia ako cesta tam, kedze vacxinu sme slapali hore, velmi strmymi horami. Ja som ale samozrejme bola v vedeni. Sice sme sa zadychali a spalili niekolko tisic kalorii - nebolo to az take tazke.
Vratili sme sa naspat na stanovisko kde sme dostali Gorilla Certifikaty a zapozovali sme
The current Alpha Male, Clancey
Momentalny vodca rodinky - stary "Silverback" pre fotky. Obaja sme boli uplne ohureni touto fantastickou skusenostou a bolo to nieco na co budeme este dlho spominat.
V kempe sme zostali na dalsie 2 noci a vstrebali sme vsetko okolo nas. Boli sme 2300m nad morom, kde nebola ziadna elektrina, ziadna voda, ziadne auta, ziadne vypary, ziadny hluk - proste nic. Sprcha pozostavala z vody vo vajdline (ktora bola zohriata na ohni) a hrnkom (s ktorym sa oblievate). Taktiez vsetky nase jedla boli varene na ohni. No bolo to fantasticke!!!
V den nasho odchodu sme zavolali Emanuelovi, ktory nas prisiel vyzdvihnut o 2 hodiny neskor. Z auta sme pozerali na zivot lutdi, ako tazko pracuju a pritom skoro nic nezarobia. Chlapi tlacia ich bicykle rozbitou cestou hore kopcom s niekolkymi obrovskymi strapcami bananov, mechmi uhlia, alebo dreva v 30 stupnovych horucavach. Zeny nosia vsetko mozne na hlavach,... plne kose, strapce bananov, tasky, aj vedra plne zemiakov. A pritom maju babatka priviazane k ich chrbom a este nesu niekolko tasiek v rukach. Ako to robia, ja fakt neviem. Emmanuel nam povedal, ze niektory muzi dokazu niest na hlave cely mech zemiakov, co je asi 100kg.
Ked sme sa vratili do Kisoro, sli sme sa pozriet na
...and a brush brush here...
aj vedia ako si cistit zuby... miestny trh a poslednu noc sme stravili v Countryside Guesthouse. Velmi sa nam pacilo toto malicke Wild West mestecko. Vsetci tam boli velmi priatelski a k nam dobri.
Rano sme vstavali o 5.30hod a nasadli na 7hod autobus naspat do Kampaly. Dalsich 10 hodin stravenych natriasanim dolava a doprava, hore a dole.
Opat v Kampale, ubytovali sme sa v New City Annex Hotel, ktory bol uplne super. Teda v nasej kategorii - mal aj teplu vodu! Nechali sme si oprat saty a mne sa zapacil uces, ktory mala jedna casnicka. Tak som sa rozhodla, ze to skusim a pojdem na cernossky styl. V ten isty den sme isli do centra mesta a nasli sme salon, ktory bol doporuceny tou casnickou. Ako sme stali vonku, zrazu vyjde asi 10 zien a pytali sa ma aky styl by som chcela. Tak som im povedala a ani som nevedela ako, vtiahli dovnutra.
6... ano 6 hodine neskor som bola uplne transformovana na Queen Latifah Mgombwe, ako ma David na zval. Kym som tam bola, asi dalsich 20 miestnych zien prislo ku mne aby sa dotkli mojich vlasov. Zevraj belosske vlasy su vulmi hebke. Bolo to celkom zaujimave, ale mne to
vobec nevadilo. Ako vidite na fotkach David si musel zvykat na jeho novu frajerku. Ale to som ja... chcem proste vyskusat vsetko!
Po 2 nociach v Kampale sme odchadzali z tejto krasnej krajiny ktora je zvana srdcom Afriky a cielili sme naspat do Kenyi - Nakuru. Strasne sa nam tu pacilo a urcite by sme sa sem chceli raz vratit.
Dalsie pokracovenie blogu prichadza coskoro do vasej emailovej schranky.
My sa mame velmi dobre, velmi si uzivame nase dobrodruzstvo a neviem uverit, ze sme v Afrike uz skoro 1 mesiac. Vsetko prebieha podla planu, nic zle sa nam nestalo, okrem toho, ze sa Davidovi vylial cely repelent v ruksaku a trochu znicil jedny z mojich nohavic, a taktiez som si poskriabala skla na mojich okuliaroch.
Ako sa mate vy? Co je doma noveho? Kludne napiste vase komenty a pravy na tuto web stranku, ked ma chcete pozdravit. Alebo mi mozte napisat email na rybana_falcon@hotmail.com. Velmi ma potesi, ked si od vas precitam spravy.
Inak vsetkych srdecne pozdravujem a posielam obrovske pusy. Dufam, ze na mna myslite, lebo ja na vas casto myslim a velmi mi chybate. Keby ste nieco narychlo potrebovali, tak mi mozte zavolat,
Zuzana took this one to show their fingers and thumbs
Ako velmi su podobny cloveku - pozrite sa na jeho ruku alebo poslat sms-ku na tel. c. 00447515 119 155.
S laskou D a Z x
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Dawn Smallwood
non-member comment
Gorillas
The gorillas are amazing! You've got some great shots!