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Published: September 18th 2009
It was 2:30pm by the time I agreed to go to Petra on my own. I finally found the Visitors Centre and arranged a short tour of the Siq (the narrow canyon that leads to the entrance) and the Treasury (the first building). There were not many other tourists (economic downturn?). I learnt a lot on the way about how the Nabbateans built the city in 100BC, and about how it was "rediscovered" by the West in 1812, about the water channels they carved, the symbols and lots more.
My first sight of the Treasury was pretty cool - you just catch a narrow glimpse of it through the Siq's opening, with the sunlight showing up the gorgeous pink/orange rock, its huge size and elaborate carvings (apparently the Nabbateans were obsessed with time so there are 12 pillars, 31 roses, 365 notches etc). After that my guide left me and I decided to follow the Rough Guide's advice to avoid "the crowds" (which were noticeably absent) and head up to the High Place of Sacrifice where there are really good views. It was a pretty long climb so I looked for another way down the mountain which leads into the
City Centre. Needless to say the paths were not at all marked (as per our experience in the car the previous day) so I soon got a bit lost. Feeling quite alone and a bit worried, I retraced my steps. By now it was 5pm and I was fed up that I'd hardly seen anything of the city, and didn't know whether everyone would be well enough to go again the next day. So when I came upon a Bedouin tea tent and the young guy serving offered me a ride on his donkey around the City, to the Monastery (the furthest building) and back through the Siq for an excellent price, I decided this would be the best thing to do.
I now have a new found respect for donkeys! That animal was able to clamber over rocks up and down mountainsides in very hot conditions, all with me on his back (and sometimes with my Bedouin friend too as his shoe kept breaking)!!! We saw temples and beautiful rock formations and got up to the Monastery in time for sunset (7pm) which was amazing, but by then I was getting very unnerved about the lack of other
people, and also the time. When he told me it could take 1.5 hours to get back down, I must confess I freaked a bit as I knew it was going to start getting dark and also that Joe would be worried about me. We made it back to the Treasury by 8ish but it was almost pitch black. And then he started having a "heated discussion" with another Bedouin. When I nervously asked what I was wrong I was told that it was a new rule that donkeys were not allowed through the Siq after dark - I had no choice but to walk through on my own, while all they did was shout "Good luck" after me with a laugh! The Siq is 1.2km long and there are another 800m to get to the gate (that's over a mile in total)... I pretty much ran most of the way with only moonlight to guide me, and at times when even that failed, I used the small glow from my mobile! Praying that I was going the right way, that I wasn't going to encounter anyone, and that the gate would still be open (it was). I have never
been so relieved to see Joe and the kids waiting for me. I was hot, tired, thirsty, sweaty, and still quite panicky. That feeling of relief lasted all the way until the next day when he smugly pointed out to me that it says on the reverse of the ticket "All visitors should leave Petra before sunset for their own safety" Humph!!
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Grandma/Oma
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petra
No wonder everyone advised me,that Petra was not suitable for me.But I am very jealous because I wanted to go there for ever.Hope you had time to take some photos,inspite of your scary time.