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Published: September 8th 2009
Moose on the loose
Moose at Josephine LakeWe had a great weekend with the Dehlendorf’s and all the Lincoln boys. All the guys went out fishing yesterday…with the results not subject for public discussion. When Scott caught a fish and took a photo he had to put it next to his foot so we even had some sense of how big…or little…it was. Lots of laughs, lots of fun.
Sunday, Sept. 6
We started out from Bozeman on our continuing tour of Montana, on our way to Glacier National Park. Up through Helena to Great Falls, then north on a two lane road through the most god-forsaken country you’ve ever seen. We perked up at the camels in Fairfield, MT - who knew this was camel country?!! Mostly its beef cattle country with lots of cows, who seem to dance to the tune “Don’t fence me in” since there were about as many outside the fenced pastures as inside. Lots of midnight black cows, interspersed with white ones. I don’t know anything about animal husbandry but I certainly was surprised to see a small white calf sucking on the teets of the large black mama cow. Coal, which is in abundant supply in Montana…and probably one of
Freezing fun
We made it to Grinnell Lake...but passed on the hike to Grinnell Glacier - just too cold. the reasons there is no sales tax here…roars by in 100 car trains.
One change is the configuration of the hay bales - for days we had been zooming by round hay bales and today they alternated with the more traditional rectangular ones. Wonder why - perhaps different types of haying tractors? Lots and lots of hay…to feed lots and lots of cattle this winter. It was a windy day, with the wind whipping through the rolling prairie grasses, creating swathes of air blown beauty. The craggy mountains marching up the Continental Divide were on our left and I couldn’t help but think…purple mountains majesty on our left, amber waves of grain on our right. This is Brokeback Mountain country - lonesome, awesome, huge. We cross the Missouri River a number of times - in many ways the country looks like it must have when Lewis and Clark explored nearly two centuries ago.
We’re in the Blackfeet Nation, one of Montana’s largest Native American reservations. The signboards tell a story…”Alcohol makes for an empty lodge.” Crosses with flowers by the side of the road bearing witness to lives lost. In Browning, a large sign with many stars with
Suspending reality
Steve on the suspension bridge - concentrating... names on them, proudly proclaiming Operation Iraqi Freedom - I only hope that the stars were for the Native Americans who have served their country, not those who were lost. We begin to see herds of horses, many pintos, and in the distance, running herds of mustangs.
Slowly we begin to climb to Glacier and the vegetation changes from wide prairie to mountainous. There are stunted stands of birch, looking like ghost trees, with high leaf canopies, stretching for the sun - this is tough land in which to grow and the trees conserve their resources. Clouds are capping the 8,000 foot peaks and suddenly we see our first glacier, way in the distance, hanging off the side of the rock. The multi-colored rock striations speak to a fascinating geologic past. As we turn in the road to Many Glacier Hotel, we parallel a roaring stream, whitecapped and wind whipped. One of the first signs says “ Report all bear and wolf sightings.” When we finally pull into the lodge, the wind is whipping up a gale and we have to fight our way to open the car doors - welcome to Montana weather. The Many Glacier Hotel is
one of the old traditional lodges built by the railway after the turn of the century for tourists and is reminiscent of an older, slightly down at the heels ski lodge. The voluminous lobby is filled with folks trying to warm up at the fire, sipping hot drinks…and joining in the hootenanny later in the evening. After dinner - who knew you could use huckleberries in so many different dishes? - we enjoyed an evening with Jack Gladstone, a Native American poet/songwriter, a talented singer and guitarist.
Monday, September 07, 2009
Up early for our boat ride and hike…and we’re determined to do it even if it is hailing outside, blowing up a gale, and looking very threatening for the rest of the day. After putting on every bit of clothing we have packed with us, we venture out on the lake on one of the 70 year old wooden boots that ply the lakes here - first across Swiftcurrent Lake, short hike to Lake Josephine and then across to the trailhead for Grinnell Lake, You can pick out mountain goats on the rock walls surrounding the lake - look for the white speck and see if it moves.
Our first bear
He was checking us out from his side of the road. As we pull into dock, there are two moose enjoying their drink of the lake. The hike is an easy 2 mile round trip to a beautiful, remote lake, led by a naturalist ranger - Kyle, an English major at Indiana University, who wants to be a writer. The rocks are brilliant sandy red and metallic green, the result of minerals during their formation. When we’re moving it’s fine, but when we stop, IT”S COLD. It’s in the mid-40”s but with the wind chill who knows how cold it is. One of the highlights is the suspension bridge over a creek - one hiker at a time. The wild flowers are still blooming - asters and a small white pearl shaped flower. A nice morning…but glad to get back to warmth.
From the ridiculous to the sublime …we drive up to Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada in the afternoon. Waterton Lakes is the Canadian extension of Glacier and is gorgeous with the craggy Canadian Rockies. As soon as we leave Glacier, the sky turns blue and sunny…but the wind picks up furiously. It’s a gorgeous drive, and Canadian cows seem to dance to the same tune as American
Stormy weather
Clouds blowing over Many Glacier Road ones - no respect for fences. You better drive slowly since you’re very likely to meet a bovine competitor on the road at any turn. Our destination is the Prince of Wales Hotel, one of the other original railway hotels. It is situated on a bluff above Waterton Lake and is a gorgeous, traditional old hotel. Its claim to fame is afternoon high tea…and hot tea really feels good right then. It’s a very proper high tea - scones, cucumber sandwiches, chocolate cake. When we leave and try to walk out onto the bluff to take photos we are literally blown sideways by the wind.
Our first bear!! As we drive back we cruise around a curve and what’s looking at us from the side of the road - a juvenile black bear, gamboling around and wondering if we’re friend or foe. A couple of quick photos and he disappears into the woods. As we continue around curves, we see more of our bovine friends but decide we only brake for bears from now on.
The drive back is glorious and the cloud cover as we approach Many Glacier is thrilling…and ominous. The clouds are whipping around the peaks and we see the first dusting of snow for the season. The dark clouds are pierced with rays of light over the water and you can see the light streaming down with an almost unworldly feeling. And then…our second bear sighting. This one, an adult, is grazing in a meadow, filling his belly with berries. At this time of year bears graze for up to 22 hours a day, getting ready for the long winter ahead.
The Many Glacier Hotel has a wonderful old fashioned feel to it, with folks playing cards and doing jig saw puzzles in the lounge. I heard one mother tell a young son “This is what people used to do before TV.” It’s a very friendly place - as we sit in the lounge with our bottle of wine and laptops, lots of folks stop by to ask if we have an Internet connection - a resounding no, there - or to borrow our corkscrew. The same for cell service - more off than on, pops up for 2 minutes and then you’re in a dead zone again.
At dinner tonight we were joined by an 8 point buck hanging over our table - didn’t make you feel like ordering venison. My favorite beverage so far was the Moose Drool Beer! Another folksinger tonight - nice to way to end the evening.
We’re off on the Going To The Sun Road tomorrow and then down south of the park - we’re glad we’ve had the time up north in the park as it is glorious place in and of itself.
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Marty Boyer
non-member comment
Montana's two seasons
Clearly, you two have discovered what Montana has in common with Wyoming and the Dakotas. These states have two seasons: winter and the Fourth of July. I like the juvenile bear you photo'd best -- he appears to be looking left, which I suspect makes him pretty lonely in Montana. But I love the photo of you and Steve at Grinnell -- best photo you've posted on the blog. It's a keeper. Are you still on track for getting home Wednesday late in the day, or what? Are the housesitters/tenants out yet, or will you all be fighting over the bedroom Wednesday night? Can't wait to know that Elvis is back in the building!