Goan Goan Gone

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A good thing has come to an end.... have spent 14 nights at Rs700 in the most excellent Afonso Guesthouse and have explored the surrounds of Panaji, also known as Panjim, mostly by local bus. Only at the end of the day when the heat has been too hot have I sometimes I succumbed to taking a taxi.

Today was spent taking two busses there and two busses back to Chandor.... the place where the Barganza family built a beautiful colonial mansion. Members of the family still live in the house and to help with renovations and upkeep a minimum of Rs100 is asked to get a guided tour by an actual member of the house.

The house is a showplace for old italian tiles, ming vases, handcarved rosewood furniture, family portraits, a private library comprising 5000 volumes, belgian chandeliers, english silver and silver made by local silversmiths. The far flung family comes home each Christmas and New Year's and then the old homestead built in the 15th century is full. The matriarch of the family, at 87, lives in the house. The house is also available for parties and special functions.... but food is not provided ...it must be brought in. Tourists drop in at will and the family member that acts as guide accomodates latecomers. She also makes sure the minimum donation is put in her donation box.

There is nothing else on offer in this small town so I had an ice cream while waiting for the return bus. Of course, as luck would have it, that's when the bus came round the corner.

This return bus took a different route than the bus coming and it only took 20 min. to get back to Margao. To get to Chandor took over an hour because of all the small towns the bus passed thru....it was a tour thru the countryside without a guide. Often if you ask your seat partner an explanation is forthcoming. In the heat it was a bit too long ....from Margao to Panaji takes one hour for 33km.

Took the same shuttle( no stop) bus to Margao yesterday.... the first lap of the trip to Benaulim Beach.

Of all the beaches visited during this time in Goa this one is by far the absolute best. There are not very many people..... the foreign to indian tourist ratio is about even, there is no gross overkill as far as hawkers goes, the waves are fantastic, the water is crystal clear, the sand is super fine, the fishing boatsare ready for artistic shots and the nets are spread out to dry, the fishermen are mending their nets, little restaurants offer cooling drinks and tasty snacks. The Furtado, which offers 13 rooms by the beach has AC, balconies, and clothes lines for your bathing togs, offers a bar and restaurant and a buffet for a teachers' picnic. This would be a good place to spend a week at the beach. I visited the second last day of my stay in Goa..... stilll ....this leaves room for an exclusive holiday for 10days at $2,500 flight included....barring purchases from beach hawkers who overprice everything. One must be vary not to get 'fished' in.

I seem to have missed a few days because of my cold. The visit to the doctor has relieved the sinus conjestion but the cough is still present.

On Tuesday I went by local bus to the next town for an 18:30 appointment for a full body Ayuveda massage. To say that it was divine would be an understatement.

The place was AC .... a definite plus. It is an enterprise supported by Hindustan Lever the biggest supplier of househld consumables.... so there is money behind it. It is spotless, modern, efficient and a total treat for Rs350/hr.

And full body means FULL BODY. Not one part of my body was left untouched.I was oiled from head to foot, front and back even my earlobes and bellybutton.

After disrobing completely and having a loin cloth put on ones naked self the oiling begins on the head.( And the whole time I am praying that I do not have to go back on the bus with my head full of oil.)

Then hot oil is used on the back and arms. Now one is ready to lie face down on a wooden table which is surprisingly more comfortable than the massage tables at Spas I have known.

And the oiling continues...everyWHERE ...... till one is as slippery as a sardine. I felt my body was a Temple. It was totally divine and I hope that when I find an Ayuveda Masseuse in Canada she will be as thorough. I have never been so massaged before in my life.... the turkish bath in Malaga Spain comes in a sorry 10th.

And thank goodness ....a shower with hair shampoo, soap, and towel ended this not to be missed experience. Had to tip the girl well...she had such small hands and she used them so well!!!

Came home in the dark and was recognized by a fellow passenger .... I had gone to shop in the Bazaar where worked.

Have been cutting back on the spicy food and enjoying the excellent Goan fish dishes offered by 'Viva Panjim'....a family restaurant just around the corner from Afonso Guesthouse....so easy to eat there at 20:00 and just head down the alley and into the shower in my spacious room.

Will miss this room ...especially if the last hotel I visit in Mumbai is a disapointment. Have booked two rooms again and one room for the night of 26 because that night only a shower is necessary before the marathon return trip.


Since staying here in Goa for a longer period of time many opportunities have presented themselves for explanations, suggestions, observations, and advise to fellow travellers.

As I listen to the same event being discussed I sometimes have to wonder if Wendy and I were in the same place at the same time. I must explain as I have discovered myself already...... two totally different types of characters have embarked and been on this trip.

When we return, in all likelyhood, friends and family will be exposed to two interpretations. I have already experienced peoples interpretations of places I have not yet visited. Sometimes I shuddered at the thought and then was pleasantly surprised. Sometimes truer words had never been spoken.

One day on the train and two days in Mumbai and then the die will be cast. The trip will be ended with impressions, images and photos for relaying to others the joys, the hardships and the pure delight of a small part of this land called India.

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Comments

[Sam]

Superb article
I'm off to Goa next week. Where exactly was the Ayuveda massage? I've been working non stop for 11 months and it sounds like exactly what I need! It sounds excellent.

[Fred Stride]

Margao and Breganza
Just back in UK from Goa. I found information on the Braganza house at Chandor very helpful and would like to add to it. Anyone planning to get there from Margao (pronounced Margo) should understand that they have to get to the main local bus terminal 3km north of town and ask for the Chandor bus. Pay on the bus, its not required to stand in line at ticket office. The bus does take a different route back from but the advantage is that you can get off in the Margao market square. The market is worth a visit but is SE of the square not W as one guide book says. Regardless of what is said, the tourist office in the square is a waste of space. Going by what was written, I must have had the same tour around the Braganza house (or to be exact - half of it) which was very interesting. No photos allowed. I agree at the end of the tour you are encouraged to put a donation in the box and its difficult guess at what is appropriate. We went for 2 x 200Rs which was well worth it. First thing on the tour you are shown is the hand painted flower wallpaper but the guide had difficulty pronouncing the 'th' in thistle, we coached her a bit so you could check for any advacement but, unless you are from the UK, you may have trouble yourself. Did meet the 87 year old matriach, the guide must trot her out as part of the furniture. Tour took about 30 minutes. Nearby there was no place obvious to eat so we too finished up at the same bus stop eating chocalote buscuits rather than ice cream (bit dodgy in in Idia with all the power cuts). Some general tips on India. Watch you change! I was regularly given change for a 50R note rather than 100R, also the 500R looks very much like the 100R. The supermarket in Benaulim was the worst offender for short chancing and over pricing. After several trips to India its certainly a bad idea giving money or anything to kids on the street. The ones I was generous to 8 years ago are now youths standing around on corners to making easy money out of tourists usually dishonestly. I agree Furtados near Benaulim seemed a relaxed friendly place quite the opposite to Colva. Travelling around, I found you could easily live in style staying at mid-range places and eating well for less than $50 a day. Avoid Air Deccan (last minute cancellations, massive delays, terrible web-site). Fly Kingfisher whenever possible - better than anything in Europe. For internet air tickets its still better to go to a decent travel agent since they will get you the Indian price which is often much cheaper than that for Foreigners. [e-mail]

[Sri Fred]

Give it a Goa
Just back in UK from Goa. I found information on the Braganza house at Chandor very helpful and would like to add to it. Anyone planning to get there from Margao (pronounced Margo) should understand that they have to get to the main local bus terminal 3km north of town and ask for the Chandor bus. Pay on the bus, its not required to stand in line at ticket office. The bus does take a different route back from but the advantage is that you can get off in the Margao market square. The market is worth a visit but is SE of the square not W as one guide book says. Regardless of what is said, the tourist office in the square is a waste of space. Going by what was written, I must have had the same tour around the Braganza house (or to be exact - half of it) which was very interesting. No photos allowed. I agree at the end of the tour you are encouraged to put a donation in the box and its difficult guess at what is appropriate. We went for 2 x 200Rs which was well worth it. First thing on the tour you are shown is the hand painted flower wallpaper but the guide had difficulty pronouncing the 'th' in thistle, we coached her a bit so you could check for any advacement but, unless you are from the UK, you may have trouble yourself. Did meet the 87 year old matriach, the guide must trot her out as part of the furniture. Tour took about 30 minutes. Nearby there was no place obvious to eat so we too finished up at the same bus stop eating chocalote buscuits rather than ice cream (bit dodgy in in Idia with all the power cuts). Some general tips on India. Watch you change! I was regularly given change for a 50R note rather than 100R, also the 500R looks very much like the 100R. The supermarket in Benaulim was the worst offender for short chancing and over pricing. After several trips to India its certainly a bad idea giving money or anything to kids on the street. The ones I was generous to 8 years ago are now youths standing around on corners to making easy money out of tourists usually dishonestly. I agree Furtados near Benaulim seemed a relaxed friendly place quite the opposite to Colva. Travelling around, I found you could easily live in style staying at mid-range places and eating well for less than $50 a day. Avoid Air Deccan (last minute cancellations, massive delays, terrible web-site). Fly Kingfisher whenever possible - better than anything in Europe. For internet air tickets its still better to go to a decent travel agent since they will get you the Indian price which is often much cheaper than that for Foreigners. [e-mail]