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Published: July 26th 2009
So Sharon and I had long before decided that we had no interest in doing the Inca trek and pretty much were sure we didn't want to do an official trek to Machu Picchu we were happy to go to Aguas Calientas the lazy way by train. However all this changed following a chance meeting in Puno.....
On arrival at our hostel in Puno we found ourselves in a self contained apartment with two bedrooms one for us and one held a Danish father and his two sons. As per usual we were exchanging travel stories and it transpired they were traveling southwards as we were traveling north so we gave them suggestions for Bolivia and they told us of their journey to Machu Picchu and then gave us a map of how to do it their way without touching the train and for half the price of the train! On arrival at our hostel in Cusco we made some further enquiries and were told by the owner and his cousin that what we had been told was correct and definitely the best way to get there if you weren't doing a trek so mids made up we set off
on our epic journey.
So Tuesday morning we set off from the hostel with just our daysacks in tow leaving our big rucksacks in storage at the hostel to be collected on our return. We made our way to the Santiago bus terminal where we then proceeded to negotiate with various collectivo drivers for a lift to Santa Maria tickets bought we jumped into the minivan which considering it was a collectivo was pretty luxurious. Sharon and I ended up on the backseat and for awhile we thought we were going to be lucky and have the three seats to ourselves meaning more legroom however this soon went out the window as we were joined by a mother and her 5 year old son - cramped is not the word especially since the legroom was short and I have long legs! Anyway 5 hours later and we arrived in Santa Maria in one piece and without too much aching.
On jumping out of the collectivo we were surrounded by a fair few taxi drivers wanting to take us to Santa Teresa. We soon attached ourselves to a couple of French lads and two girls from New York state
and we were able to negotiate a better fare albeit it came with a downside - the six of us had to fit into a volvo estate with bags et al. It ended up with us four girls sharing the backseat and on lad in the front whilst the other was n the boot with the bags. The drive to Santa Teresa took an hour and the views from the road were pretty amazing and thankfully we had a considerate driver who kept stopping and letting us out to take photographs. However the road itself was pretty terrifying and in places it became hairy when we had a sheer drop on our left and we were edging closer to it whilst passing another vehicle.
On arrival in Santa Teresa we booked ourselves into the hostel that had been recommended and it has to be said that this si the nicest and plushest hostel we have stayed at so far and also one of the cheapest. Bags dumped we headed off in another collectivo to the local thermal spring baths where we enjoyed lazing around in the hot water for a few hours.
Wednesday morning we were up and
out of the hostel by 8.30am and once again piled into a collectivo to the hydro-electrica plant. Once there we had a two and a half hour trek down a railway line to Aguas Calientas. Before people start thinking we were stupid the tracks were not live and we had already been told that only two trains a day run along the line one at 12.30pm and one at 4pm. The train tracks thus the walk goes around the valley surrounding Machu Picchu so at various points you were able to look upwards and have a glimpse of Machu Picchu. The walk whilst on the flat was ok however the sun and heat made it harder work.
We arrived in Aguas Calientas around lunchtime so dumped our bags in the hostel and had a bite to eat and then caught the bus up to Machu Picchu. I am afraid that my words will not do my first true glimpse of Machu Picchu justice so I will leave it to the pictures to do the talking. Sharon and I became separated as we walked around the ruins. I am afraid to say that what is going to come next will
be seen as madness or even blasphemy by some especially given so many people would love to visit the site however I will confess that after an hour or so of walking around one ruin was looking very much like another and so I retreated to the guardhouse where most of my photos were taken looking down onto Machu Picchu and across to Waynu Picchu. I will now however confess that I could have sat there for hours in awe of the site and its surroundings. As it was I sat there for an hour just looking at it and taking it all whilst having the odd broken Spanish conversation with an elderly security guard who kept coming back to me and checking I was ok. At 4.30pm the sun started to go down and by 5pm the sun had dipped below the surrounding mountains but a gap in the mountains meant it still shone onto Waynu Picchu. Just after 5pm the security guards whistles started blowing signifying it was time to leave my friendly security guard gave Sharon and I some leeway (having met up 10 minutes earlier) and after taking our photograph he gave us each a kiss
on the cheek and a cheery wave (before people get excited I missed an opportunity with a new guy he was 60+!).
Sharon and I had our last glimpses of Machu Picchu and then started on the long walk back down we had decided that we could walk down given we chickened out and didn't walk up! All I can say is that it was a lot of steps and I am still glad I didn't walk up there. On our walk through Aguas Calientas we called in at the train station having decided we would take it easy the next day however we were told that we couldn't get the first trains out and we either had to pay an extortionate amount or leave at 5.30pm at which point we decided we would do our trip in reverse.
Thursday morning we were up and about early so set off on our walk back at 8am which in hindsight turned out to be a good thing on account of us avoiding the sun and its rays. We were both tired on reaching the hydro-electrica so happy when a collectivo offered to take us to Santa Maria for a
cheap price however on getting into Santa Teresa he told us to jump out and get in the waiting taxi who wanted to charge us a lot more however as our hands were tied and we were tired and wanted to get back to Cusco we jumped in. OH MY this is the scariest drive of my life!! Bearing in mind that i am not a car passenger that jumps or flinches easily I was holding onto the passenger seat in front of me for all it was worth as we speeded down the single lane dirt track with the sheer drop on our right. All this wasn't helped by the fact that we were skidding around the corners and knowing that at any point we could meet oncoming traffic. We had two near misses and on the second occasion the Peruvian lady sat next to me had a few choice words with the driver and he thereafter slowed down - by all of 5kmph!!
Once into Santa Maria we hastly jumped out of the taxi and thrust his money at him. We were then greeted by a collectivo driver who was leaving for Cusco there and then so
we jumped into his van. On arrival in Cusco we made our way back to the hostel and having retrieved our backs from the storage our first port of call was the bar and a beer!
All in all whilst we were tired we both enjoyed our mini adventure and agreed that it was better than going by train - plus we saved ourselves over £50 by doing it ourselves!! That night however we decided that we needed a treat so headed into the town for a nice meal. Long before setting off on our travels I had decided that I was going to try Cuy (Guinea Pig) whilst in Bolivia or Peru however as time got closer I started to hedge my bets especially on seeing a few raw ones available to buy at a butchers. At times I wished I was traveling with my Dad in the knowledge he would order it and I could try it thus didn't have to be brave enough to order it myself. The first time it appeared on the menu you could have it fried or glazed and I chickened out and decided to try Alpaca (Llama) instead. However after a
conversation with Sharon and my Dads mantra of "you have to try everything once" running through my head I came to an agreement with Sharon she would try a piece of Alpaca if I had guinea pig...... I am yet to uphold my end of the bargain not for the want of trying however Sharon has now tried Alpaca.
Friday morning was reserved for postcard writing and buying the bus tickets to take us to Ica. After my marathon postcard writing session (a few more of you than normal can expect a card in the next few weeks so watch your post boxes carefully...) I headed off to the bus station leaving Sharon behind still wading through her cards. Bus tickets bought for that night and all was good with the world so after a final jaunt around the town we headed off back to sea level and the sand dunes of Huacachina.
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Sue
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Can's believe Deirdre ate Alpaca!!
Wow, the pictures look incredible so I can only imagine what it must have been like in reality. Really glad you guys got to make the trip - and get back down safely by sounds of it!! I would go for the fried guinea pig myself, that to me suggests a crispier texture, but like your dad says, you've got to give it a try!! Have fun xx