Hiking in Loshoto

---

Hiking Around Lushoto - Wednesday, 2-15-06

I partially woke up the next morning at about 5:00 Am when the roosters began to crow, then other birds began to sing and whistle. This was followed at about 5:30 by the imam groaning his call to prayer over loudspeakers installed in the minarets a few blocks away. About 6:00 AM the church bell began ringing the faithful to mass. Soon the warbling bus horns began calling fares to take their seats. Next came a sound like someone hitting a pot with a wooden spoon. This was the first call to students to get ready for classes. Finally, about 7:15 marching drums started up a cadence at the school. I guess it was some kind of morning parade. This prolonged wakeup call occurred both mornings we were in Loshoto.

Today we were scheduled for a 5 hour hike through the mountains to the Irente Farm, beginning at 9:00 AM. We had made arrangements the day before with our official tourist bureau guide. When we arrived at the bureau office the first thing out of Marie’s mouth was "I want my money back". I didn’t know this was coming so I was a bit surprised. We had talked that the price did seem a bit steep (about $16), but I thought we were still on. After some huffing and puffing and explaining we learned that the guide did in fact get the guide fee and that the other money went to the community development fund, so we were okay with the fee.

As it turned out the hike was great. The guide knew all about the flora and fauna, what the trees and plants were used for. He knew a lot of people in the villages along the way. The route he took cut through fields, hutment compounds with chickens and cows, wooded trails and dirt roads. People along the way greeted us with

jambo

(how are you), especially the kids who would wave excitedly. They don’t see that many muzungu (whites … with a slightly derogatory flavor) up here.

About two hours into the walk we came to a large group of elementary school kids playing outside. They gathered around us, the girls giggling and boys shouting "jambo[/quote". Marie asked the guide if she could take a picture of the kids. The guide told the kids what she wanted to do and told anyone who didn’t want their picture taken to leave. About two thirds of the kids didn’t want their photos taken; there are some superstitions about it. This left a group of 15 or so who wanted to be in the picture so Marie took one of the group hat remained.

Almost immediately a shoeless, angry looking guy with red mud caked around his legs stormed over to our guide and started ranting at him in Swahili. Our easy going guy started out with a surprised but calm demeanor, but was soon stabbing his finger in the direction of the school. The muddy guy went into the school for a moment then came out with a well dressed man, whom we learned was the

chairman

(headman) of the village. Soon all three of them were arguing vehemently.

It turns out that the muddy guy claimed that we had taken a photo of the school. It is illegal to take photos of public buildings in Tanzania. Our guide told him that we had not taken any of the school. We showed our photo to the headman and offered to erase it. I talked to him quietly and apologized. He said it was okay and gradually things eased up. As we continued down the road our otherwise calm guide kept mumbling about the bleeping

Bushman

making trouble in front of his clients (us). Pretty soon the walking and scenery had us all back to enjoying the day.

We arrived at Irente Viewpoint about three hours into the walk. It is situated high on a hill that overlooks the Maasai Plains below. There is a spotless lodge there with restaurant and well maintained grounds. The view is spectacular with the plains framed by steep stone cliffs on either side. We stopped to use the restrooms and have a soda.

Fifteen minutes later we arrived at Irente Farms where they make cheese, rye bread, assorted preserves, and quark. Quark is a yogurt-like spread made from herbs and the whey left over from the cheese making. We ordered "picnic lunches", a sampling of each of their products, and sat at tables under a thatched picnic pavilion.

Soon a group of two German men and a German woman came up to the pavilion. They ordered one picnic lunch to share … the woman only ate one piece of cheese or so. Soon we were all sharing travel stories, tips on where to go, what prices to pay for things, etc. It turned out that one of the men was studying Architectural Landscaping in Dar Es Salaam. The woman, his girlfriend, and the other man, Chris, had come to visit him for a few weeks, so they were traveling around together. All were in their late twenties or so and they seemed to enjoy our company.

After lunch the Germans headed out to the viewpoint that we had just visited. We agreed to meet in town at 4:30 or so to visit St. Eugene’s Monastery to sample their banana wine and cheese. Before leaving our guide introduced us to the Farms horticulturist who explained that they were focused on planting indigenous plants wherever possible. He showed us a native banana tree in full bloom. The flower was huge, about a foot in diameter and three feet long. We learned that the native tree produces only small inedible fruits with one large seed in each. All fruit bearing banana trees in the Americas and Africa were introduced from Asia.

We continued our hike back toward Loshoto about six kilometers away. About twenty minutes into the walk a chunky fellow rolled by on a bicycle. When he got about 50 yards ahead of us he suddenly stopped, got off his bike, and started throwing stones at the clay embankment next to the road. We hustled up to see what was going on. There on the ground was a pretty, thin green snake writhing on the ground with its head smashed. Our guide explained that the snake was a deadly, green momba. Its bite usually kills within thirty minutes.

Our entry back into town took us past our hostel, so we parted with Agray, handing him a tip of 2,000 TSh. Marie was in much better spirits after the walk so we walked to the market to wander around. After the market we walked back to the tourist office to meet the Germans. There was a couple there considering hiking options. We told them what a good guide Agray was, so they booked with him on the spot. He was pleased. He parted with a handshake saying

You are good muzungu

.

We agreed to split a taxi with the Germans for a ride to St. Eugene’s Compound which houses an order of nuns who make banana wine and excellent cheeses and preserves. We were greeted by a young Swiss woman who was volunteering her time there to teach English to the primary students who attended the school there. She was very sweet and, well, Swiss like. After a brief tour of the cheese storage area we ordered a bottle of banana wine and some bread and cheese to share. The first sip of wine was very strange, a bit oily and a bit vinegary. After a few sips it mellowed out, but I doubt that it will ever become a major seller.

After our snack the five us decided to walk the three km back to Loshoto. The sun was getting low as we walked and the scenery was spectacular with vistas of small villages and farms clustered in valleys and surrounded by trees and mountains. The setting sun lit up the scenes with Maxwell Parish like colors. A truly enjoyable walk was had by all.

---

Photos

Our Guide, Agray
We thoroughly enjoyed Agray's company and recommend him to anyone who wants to hike the area. He is knowledgeable, patient and friendly.

View Near Irente Viewpoint
Viewes in and around the viewpoint are spectacular. Here are cliffs to the North side of the outlook.

Village Shop Door
The hike took us through many small villages. Here is the door to one small shop.

School Kids Wave to Us
School kids waved to us all along the way. We asked to take a photo of one group and a local "Bushman" raised cain (see writeup).

The Three Germans
These are the young Germans we met and had lunch with, and later traveled with to St. Eugene's.

Native Banana Tree
The native banana trees have a huge flower but bear no fruit. Fruit bearing bananas, which are much more common, originated in Asia.

Comments

[yusuph]

mambo vipi
tunahitaji picha zaidi