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Published: July 12th 2009
Wednesday, July 8- Killarney and Killarney National Park
After breakfast, we walked to the Diseart exhibition in the convent of the Sisters of the Presentation. Their chapel has 12 stained glass windows made by Harry Clarke, a renowned Irish stained glass artist. It is the only church or chapel in the world to have more than 2 or 3. They are gorgeous- not only were the colors brilliant, but no single piece of glass was plain. They all were etched with some pattern or design; he must have been the “Tiffany” of religious stained glass windows.
We returned to our room, packed the car and headed to Killarney. We stopped for a walk along a long strand of beach at Inch where they give surfing lessons and four wheel drives can drive on the hard sand. We picked up some shells and stored them in the glove compartment so they would not get broken. Then we continued our drive to the hotel. We are staying at a Quality Inn with a pool so Dean can swim. When we arrive, they have misplaced our reservation, but have a room and honor the price we were quoted.
After unloading the car, we drive to Killarney National Park and its visitor center at the Muckross House Estate. The Muckross Mansion/Castle sits overlooking one of the Killarney Lakes, and resembles the Newport Mansions on steroids. It was the home of wealthy anglo-irish in the 19h century. It was built for 30,000 pounds, and then they spent another 90,000 pounds on it to get it ready for a visit from Queen Victoria. She only ended up staying for 3 nights, and never compensated them with the titles and perks the landed English gentry expected when hosting her. Thus they were so in debt they had to sell it! A wealthy American bought it for his daughter as a wedding gift. When she died, her husband gave the estate to the government, and it became Ireland’s first National Park. The grounds and buildings are lovely with many of manicured and rock gardens overlooking the lakes and mountains.
We followed the path to Torc Waterfall. Jeff, Jackie and I hiked on to the top of it. It was strenuous, but worth it. We still had time, so the four of us started the 15-minute hike to the “Meeting of the Waters” where the lakes and a river meet. The hike actually took us about 40 minutes roundtrip on a paved carriage path beside the lake through a forest of rhodedendron and Holly trees (yes, towering holly trees, not puny New England bushes).
At 7:30, we headed back to Killarney and had dinner at Cronin’s. It was busy, understaffed, and our waitress didn’t realize that they had run out of the Shepherds’ pie I had ordered until after she had brought everyone else’s dinner, so I just ate Irish bread. In the town center we took pictures of Sweeney’s pharmacy and hotel before returning to our room.
Dean was looking forward to the quiet “adult swim time” listed, but the adults weren’t very quiet at all. A group of 20-30 young men from Tralee had chosen this evening to play water volleyball, and had monopolized the entire pool! The lifeguard offered to ask them to clear a lane, but with the ball flying everywhere, he decided it wasn’t worth taking the chance. Back in the room, we realized that our location near the elevator was far from ideal- we heard the machinery every time it was in use. Overall, our recommendation: DO NOT stay at the Quality Inn in Killarney! A B&B would have been much better.
Thursday, July 9-Cahir Castle, Swiss Cottage, Patrick of the Rockville House B&B, and The Rock of Cashel
Dean was the first one in the pool. It opened at 7:30 so we could get an early start. Today we drive to Cashel, a stone abbey atop a hill that was the former home of high kings, the Irish equivalent of Mount Saint Michel. On our way, we drive through Cahir, and stop to see the Castle. Jeff has now proclaimed this to be his favorite. It is the most complete and well restored that we have seen. The Butler family’s stronghold was built in the 13th c. and is sitting in the center of the town. It has several buildings, ramparts to climb, a keep, and the only working portcullis in Ireland. The fortified gate drops in 3 seconds, but takes 7 hours to bring back up. We have a very knowledgeable and animated tour guide, who brings the castle alive for us.
When we leave the castle, we could walk 2 miles along the river to the “Swiss Cottage”, but, as we want to be on our way to Cashel, we drive instead. The “cottage orne” was in the fashion of the day. The wealthy, like Marie Antoinette in France, would have a “country home” built at a distance from the castle, just to get away from it all. The townsfolk thought the building looked like a Swiss chalet, and the nickname stuck. It has oak trees and branches supporting a thatched roof verandah that encircles the house, and roses grow up trellises to the bedroom balconies. “Swiss Cottage” is quite a different from the cold stone castle.
On our way again, we reach Cashel, and meet our host Patrick of the Rockville House B&B. They have several rooms in the main house, and are in the process of converting the stables into 6 more. Our room is #1, on the 2nd floor with views of the rock. Patrick is a wit, for sure. When we had called to say we’d be later than expected, he told us it was no problem. If he wasn’t there with the key, we could sleep in the tent in the yard. Later when we arrive, and we are talking with him, a couple comes to inquire about a room. He directs them to me saying, “She’s the boss- if she says you can have a room, it’s fine with me”.
After we settle in, Dean and I check out the town while Jeff and Jackie practice their horns (Patrick said if they wanted to really jam, they could use the stables). The rock closes at 7:30, so we all headed up and were in time to join the last tour, already in progress. The abbey complex is amazing, with a chapel, cathedral, round tower, bishop’s residence, and a dormitory and practice area for the choir. This is the hill where St. Patrick baptized King Aengus, accidentally sticking the point of a crosier through the king’s foot. The king, being a brave man, and not knowing all the particulars about Christian rites, bore it in silence, thinking it was part of the ceremony! The guide said it was lucky for Ireland, because if he had whipped out his sword and decapitated Patrick, it would have destroyed the tourist industry! The graveyard has many standing Celtic crosses, and people whose ancestors had put their names “on the list” can still be interred there. There is a Sweeney plot right near the cathedral. Blackbirds love the rock, because there are so many holes for nesting places. It is common to see flocks of them flying around the ruins.
At 7:30, the kids head back to the room, but Dean and I walk down toward the ruins of the Hore Abbey below the rock. The bugs are out in the long grass, so we go on the “bishops walk” instead. It leads down to an exclusive hotel in the former archbishop’s residence. We walk through its gardens, but then can’t find a way to get out! The lobby and restaurant doors are locked. Finally we found a service entrance and cut through to the exit. Enough adventure for one day- back to the B&B for a good night’s sleep.
Friday, July 10- Rock of Cashel and off to Dublin
Breakfast at the Rockville house was in the dining room with the other guests (2 couples from Canada, one from Germany, and two older women from London) and Patrick teasing everyone. He had Jackie come into the kitchen to be sure her breakfast was made the “right way”. He told us that, if she didn’t return, it was because she’d be washing dishes, and if we wanted to leave her there while we continued our trip, he could use the help.
Since we had missed the beginning of yesterday’s tour, we returned to the Rock to catch the video, museum exhibit, and commentary from the beginning. Partway through the tour, the rain began, so we were lucky to be able to excuse ourselves without missing out on anything. Our next hours were spent in the car driving to Dublin. We decided to skip stopping in Kilkenny; the rain was not a passing shower.
Approaching Dublin, the traffic got heavy; we called Caroline, our hostess, to alert her to our arrival time and get last minute directions. We only took one wrong turn near “Bushy Park” before we arrived at Harold’s Cross about 1:00. Caroline was waiting to guide us to a parking spot, give us the keys, and show us our rooms. She had too much work to go to the Cape, so her husband and younger son were having a “mancation” without her, and she was house sitting for a friend. She had an appointment at 2:15, but first took Dean to show him the pool, and offered to return when she was done to take us into Dublin and orient us a bit. The house is a terraced (what we call a row) house on three levels. It is very sophisticated; all black, white, mirrors, sculptures, framed photographs. We also have a cat that comes and goes. He hangs out in his walled garden but lets us know he wants to come in by sitting on the sill of the kitchen’s picture window.
When Caroline returns, we hop in the car and she drives us through Dublin. After we park at Brown Thomas, she power-walks us past her favorite shopping area and points out some restaurants and sights. Then she’s off to bring dinner to her other son who has just returned from Spain. We feel overwhelmed; Dublin is so big-city and crowded compared to the west. We wander the streets past Trinity College and cross to the north side of the river Liffey on the Halfpenny Bridge (pedestrian bridge), and then back on the Millennium Bridge into Temple Bar.
Cornucopia, a vegetarian restaurant Caroline recommended is one that Jackie also read about on a celiac site, so we stop there for dinner. The menu on the blackboard , and much of it is gluten-free, so we have a great supper and some gf desserts before we walk home. It takes about 30 minutes from St. Stephan’s green to reach the house. Dean and I spend time calling pools. The pool that Caroline had lined up was only 4 feet deep. We find a few possibilities, and call it a night. Rain is predicted for the next few days.
Saturday, July 11-Glendalough
Our first full day in Dublin- we leave the kids sleeping, and drive to the pool we found at a local private boys’ school. Fortunately, it has everything Dean needs. An hour later, it is not raining yet, so we decide to drive south of the city into Glendalough, a monastic settlement founded by St. Kevin, and later led by St. Lawrence O’Toole. Our GPS is all confused, so we end up on a narrow, windy route that brings us there, but in a much more scenic manner than we intended.
The parking lot is packed with tour busses, but we must be lucky most of the people seem to be eating lunch rather than walking around the ruins. There are two churches, a round tower, and many standing crosses. The sky looks ominous, so we walk outside first, then visit the center. It was the right call, because when we leave the center, it is pouring. Though it cuts short our plans to hike some of the trails, at least we have seen most of the abbey sights.
We drive back to Dublin on a more direct route, stop at a grocery store for dinner supplies, and have our pasta before going to 7 o’clock Mass at our Lady of the Rosary; but the priest refers to it as “Harold’s Cross Church”. Our house backs up to the church, so it is a short walk. At home, we come up with a few alternate plans for tomorrow, based on weather, and say good night.
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Ginger Ferrell
non-member comment
Glass by Harry Clarke
The renowned Irish stained glass artist is actually Harry Clarke. His work is breathtaking. cheers, Ginger