Tuesday- The Dingle Peninsula Loop Drive

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Tuesday, July 7
We had a good night’s sleep after our busy day, but as we were drifting off, we heard the dolphins whistling to each other in the bay. We began our day with breakfast at the Last Cottage - Eggs, bacon (which is more like what we call ham here in the states), white pudding, scones, tea, and muesli. We also met the young couple staying in Margaret’s 3rd room; Laura and Noah, 2 first-year teachers from California. They were planning to bike the loop today.
We began driving it about 10. Our first stop was an overlook with a view of Ventry Harbor. The water is so blue. It looked like the tropics. Ireland is a tropical island of sorts, as the Gulf Stream flows by the west coast. Farther down the road is the parking lot for Dunbeg, a promontory stone fort from Ireland’s Iron Age (500 BC-500AD). It had a currach on display. Dean was impressed with how they would transport sheep in it. The currachs are so easily punctured that they have to tie the sheep’s legs together and lay them on their backs! I am more amazed at the stone forts, walls, and huts we see today; they have survived intact for hundreds of years. Our stonewalls at home seem to slip out of place in much less time than that.
The local farmers who own the land these ancient structures are on usually charge a nominal fee for giving you the right of way to walk over their land to view them. This is sheep country, and the farmers are busy painting sheep so they can identify their herd. The border collies are keeping the sheep organized- except for the one who was herding a car down the road! We climb a steep hill to the beehive huts- they are constructed with ever- smaller concentric circles, finally ending with a small smoke hole at the top. We can even go inside two of them. There are people visiting here from all over: Italy, Germany, France, and the USA.
During our loop drive, we are constantly trying to stay ahead of a German tour bus. Speaking of buses, we were sure to drive the loop clockwise, the same way they do; I wouldn’t want to meet one of them on a curve! The drive reminds me of the California coast highway: 2 narrow lanes between cliffs/hillsides and a sheer drop. Since I’m on the left, I’m on the outside; not much maneuvering room. At one point, we had to ford a stream that runs OVER the road. It actually was designed to be that way, rather than divert the stream under the road, so some people call it the “upside-down bridge”. On the hillside below the road, we see deserted ruins of famine cottages. They are overgrown with grass, but still quite intact.
When we pull off at Slea Head overlook, we can see the Ring of Kerry, the Blasket and Skellig Islands in the distance. Skellig Michael is a stony island where a group of monks lived in isolation. You can hire a boat to sail out to it, but then you also have to climb over 300 uneven steps carved into the stone to reach their huts. We decided that a picture from a distance would suffice.
Looking behind us up the hill, the fields resemble patchwork quilts in shades of green. We can see a sandy beach at the foot of the cliff, so we find the access road and go down a set of stone steps and a path to the wide strand. It is low tide, and we take off our shoes and walk to the surf and the tidal pools. There is a “no swimming” sign, but a life preserver hangs next to it, and several people are surfing the cold water in their wetsuits. Jackie and Jeff want to scale the cliffs to return to the top, but a storm cloud coming over the hill looks ominous, and wet rocks aren’t safe to climb. They wisely decide not to attempt it.
It is beginning to rain, so we head to the Blasket Island Center, which deals with the history of the island and its evacuation in the 1900s when fewer than 20 inhabitants remained. How sad to have to leave your home. We drove through the town of Ballyferriter- the town’s Church has all its stained glass windows, notices, prayer books, and inscriptions in Gaelic. After this, we took a one-lane turnoff through fields to an ogham stone from 500 BC. Later it became part of a monastery; so the monks superimposed a cross over the runes.
Our last two stops were the Gallarus Oratory- an upside-down boat-shaped beehive-type stone dwelling which is the only surviving such structure in the world, and Kilmalkedar ; a 12th century church with an early standing cross and a 3rd century ogham stone with a circular hole in the top. To renew a vow or make a pledge, two people would touch thumbs through the hole as they spoke.
Having spent the day with scenic views and ancient ruins, we headed back to Dingle for dinner. We ate pub food at John Benny Moriarty’s, and then went back to the room for a nap. At 9:00, we found a seat at the pub in the Dingle Bay Hotel. A group called the Atlantic Gales was leading a session with their guitars, whistles, accordions and concertinas. Dean and Jackie sat at a table for 2 and Jeff and I sat behind them at a counter. Along with the music we had dancing from a 6 year old girl and her toddler brother; both could give the energizer bunny competition. When the band asked for musicians in the audience, Jeff borrowed the leader’s guitar and sang 2 songs- Lukey’s Boat and the Minstrel Boy. He received a nice round of applause from the audience and smiles form the band. Dean and I left at the next break, and J&J remained until closing time. Tomorrow we move to Killarney.

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Comments

[Lori Dunn-Reier]

Your writing makes the place come to life!
I just want to let you know how much I'm enjoying your blog as we plan our own trip. We will be staying between Glenbeigh and Killorglin along the lake there. Great job with your descriptions, and this comes from an English teacher!!!