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Published: July 12th 2009
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Dives and cuddles in Sipadan, welcome to Kapalai resort!
I've dived in many places in the world...and quite often people come back with the same question...have you dived Sipadan? Up to now, the answer was always...not yet. So now it's done, we just spent 4 nights at the Kapalai Sipadan resort. In terms of diving, Galapagos, Palau and Tubbataha are still way ahead for me, but Sipadan do come in fourth on my list of places I've dived.
We stay at the Kapalai resort...and this is an out-of-this-world diving resort. The staff were amazing, you are taken care so well it's impressive. The place has 60 bungalows all built over water. If you are single...do not come here...if you won't dive, snorkel and are not in cuddles, do not come here. But if you look for a very romantic place while doing 3 to 4 dives a day...there is only three words, this is a "romantic diver paradise". Well...we did meet few singles who were in groups and were great company...so if you haven't find your second half yet...just bring your best friends!
In terms of diving. You may be aware of the dive permits put in place
in Sipadan. Currently, 120 divers can dive it every day. So if you do come to Kapalai, Mabul or even Semporna, do check with the operator you use the number of permits they have. We ddive 3 days and a half, and ended up two days in Sipadan with a total of 5 dives. Not bad at all. Kapalai seems to be able to get you one day to Sipadan for every 3 days you dive with them.
The diving....Mabul Island...a lot of turtles, met my first crocodile fish, and a lot of nudibranches. We did 3 dives there, rating it average to good diving. Kapalai, the resort have it's own artifical reef just out of the dive center. We did 3 dives there, including a nightdive. We did meet there 2 giants groupers...really fun experience, plus a lot of bumpedhead parrotfishes, lion fishes,...rating this diving as poor for the site, but good for the marine life.
The night dive in Kapalai was really fun...beside the two giant grouper, I met two turtles and a impressive barracuda fishing just behind me.
We also did two dives out of Siamil Island. This island is 25 minutes out of
Kapalai. This is a true macro diver paradise. Hope I won't forget too many things on my list...but it did include many leaf scorpion fishes, frog fishes, snake eel hunting, giant mantis shrimps, juvenil sweet lips, blue ribbon eel, arlequin banded pipe fishes, pigmy seahorses, hips of nudibranches...a lot of fun! And Ma'ri has gone down solid on her air consumption also. We both come back after each 50 minutes dives with more than 80 bars each time. This is amazing macro diving.
Than finally Sipadan. I was expecting a lot...2 out of the 5 dives were amazing. We did twice barracuda point, and twice coral garden. Ma'ri did also Drop off while I was diving Turtle Cave.
Our first dive in Barracuda point was impressive. Serious current also....glad I had my hook with me! Hips of barracudas...obviously, but also tens of turtles, sharks (white tips and grey reef sharks), and hips of other pelagic fishes. Thatwas a dive!
The last day I also dived the turtle cave. These are 2 main caves linked by a tunnel who may be around 50 meters long. The main attraction being the fact that the second cave is a turtle
cemetery. They do assumed that turtles do get lost in the cave and never find the exist by losing there navigation abilities. The cave has 6 to 8 squelettons...one of the was a pretty recent one.
I read a lot about this dive before doing it. Sure they have the "Death sign" at the entry of the cave...sure also you should do this if you are a experienced diver. There is a lot of still sand down there, and you want to maintain a proper buoyancy in order not to kick the sand...as this would result in reducing solidly your visibility on the way back from the cave. But what is described by some as a narrow tunnel is a wide alley and it's a pretty easy dive. Some do it with two bottles, in case you "decide" to panic...I had Benn, my divemaster with me who told me it would be not necessary in regard of my air consumption. So a great souvenir for me...but I've seen way more stressful dives. And for the turtles, this is a magic moment, you just need to enjoy the pics.
Coming back to the resort. Our overwater bungalow was great...open
bath to the outside. Terrace where at night the turtles come to feed on corals just below your gin tonic (terrace)! If you are in serious luxuries, I would recommend you bring your own toileteries and fluffy towels, but beside that it's an amazing place.
The bar had only beer and decent wine (plus champagne!), so for a gin tonic...bring your own...we all know that divers should not drink and smoke...well...I don't know where...but I forgot to read about this! The food was buffet style, very nice as divers are always hungry...but they do provide very healty food which was seriously yammie!
Would I bring my kids here...yes once they are 12 and can dive to 18 meters. As I said before, if you are not in putting your head in the water...maybe not the right place. The resort is obviously not cheap, but if you want to compare it with places in Tahiti or Maldives, this is a serious bargain. In regards to the permits, I would either stay 4 or 6 nights. 6 nights should allow you two full days in Sipadan, total of 8 dives....well, we had 4 nights and 5 dives in Sipadan. We
met some couples who stay only 2 nights and made it one full day (4 dives) in Sipadan, but than you miss the all macro fun of Siamil.
So Sipadan on my wish list, done...the list still have some 15 places I want...and will dive in the world...but the list is going shorter every month.
If you know Ma'ri and I,you know we are going by the following....bubbles...cuddles and candles...next entry! Bubbles! Again!
With love from Malaysia...next entry coming soon!
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Ali
Ali Watters
Yep - top diver honeymoon spot :)
I do know some singles who've been there and had an awesome time too - but - broadly agree diver honeymoon spot :) - nice turtle cave shots!