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Hello all!
Well once again the traveller's schedule has kept me from tying myself to a computer for any length of time to catch up with this blog so i may have to do two installments to bring you up to date with what i've been up to recently!
I believe last time i wrote i had just arrived in Dharamsala. We had another rather interesting journey up there. An overnight train in sleeper class with people crammed sitting in the aisle. I was befriended by a Kashmiri family who after the usual inquisitive questions were very eager to take me up to kashmir with them! ...all too tempting. I had the most awesome week in Dharamsala and i'm already planning my return. The landscape is beautiful and the community has a wonderful atmosphere. It almost doesn't feel like India, a definite escape from the usual intense chaos! It was really interesting learning more about the Tibetan cause and being amongst the Tibetan community, they have a wonderful spirit which seems to calm and put one at ease. We spent our week doing yoga classes, and going to some interesting events such as a momo party (momo's are Tibetan dumplings), a documentary movie night and an awesome open mic night. There are endless ways to keep yourself amused here and countless ways to involve yourself in the community.
Having grown so attached to Dharamsala and its laid back ways we were both very sad to be moving on. Our next stop was Amritsar. We had another very typical Indian journey, starting with an bus ride with a boy racer driver...rather a hair raising experience on winding mountain roads. Nevertheless we made it in time to catch our train to head up to the heat of Amritsar and a return to 'real India'. Luckily it wasn't a long train journey as Sally and I were tightly packed in sleeper class with about 6/7 men on a bench seat only really made to accommodate for a about 3/4 people!
Amritsar was HOT! On our first day we started packing in the culture visiting a museum and then a temple where women go to pray to get pregnant... which actually felt more like a sort of theme park with cave type structures that you had to crawl through!? Then we headed to the Memorial for the Amritsar Massacre. Having studied this event, seeing the place it happened was quite surreal and made the atrocity that bit more real. We then took refuge from the heat in a cafe where we met some guys who we then arranged to catch a ride up to the border with to watch the India- Pakistan border ceremony. The ceremony itself was almost indescribable. It was the biggest, boldest show of brash patriotism possible, with singing, dancing, chants, flag waving... The Guards were hilarious and their high kicks and marching extremely impressive. (good flexibility in those legs!) The atmosphere, with the heat was definitely an intense experience and one that will be difficult to forget.
The next day we continued our culture marathon and visited the silver (Hindu) temple and then the famous Sikh Golden Temple, which was beautiful.
We then boarded our 17th and final train down to Mumbai. For 36hrs it went very smoothly. We had some nice neighbours, a Mumbai local and a little girl who gave us a short Hindi lesson in body parts and animals!
Mumbai is an awesome city with it's very own unique vibe and energy. It's still very much India but with a very modern and up and coming feel to. It's absolutely beautiful with the sea, lots of trees and wide cobbled streets and old colonial buildings. On our first morning we did a bit of exploring, seeing the Taj hotel and Gateway to India. We then met a local who proceeded to show us around some of the surrounding areas! He was quite a character and could definitely talk for Mumbai...if not India! It was pretty useful as it helped us to get some bearings on the city. To escape the mid afternoon heat we sought refuge in the Cinema and treated ourselves to a showing of Angels and Demons. Was rather interesting... before the film started a big Indian flag appeared on the screen and everyone had to stand to sing the National Anthem! :S ...bizarre. The rest of our time in Mumbai we did the usual touristy stuff, shopping in Colaba, having a drink in Leopolds and eating lots of CURRY! We made it to the airport in plenty of time after in true India style being quite rawly ripped off by our cheeky taxi driver, quite a fitting way to depart India really. I absolutely loved Mumbai and it's probably the one Indian city i could consider living in. It once again reconfirmed the vast diversity of India.
Leaving India was pretty emotional. My time here as been almost indescribable...which i guess you may find hard to believe considering the amount i've written and all the stories i have to tell. As my plane tore up the runway for take off i felt as though India was being torn rather reluctantly away from me. I don't think you realise how much India becomes a part of you till you're no longer a part of India. I know it's cliche but i don't think it's possible to travel through India's villages, towns, or cities and not be changed or affected by what you see and experience and the people you meet, they teach you more about yourself then you could ever attempt to discover on your own! I think i would be disappointed if i came out the same person...although i'm not sure i can really tell how i'm different. I've met some amazing people in a country which has thrown everything and anything at me. I've loved it and hated it almost simultaneously. India draws you in and enfolds you in its layers of rich and diverse culture. It was an intense 5months, with many things pushing me to my limits... and often beyond. Yet it taught me to also let some things happen and let some things be... often it is not your place to try and control things no matter how irritating and frustrating that may be. India is without a doubt now a second home for me and i can't wait to return and continue exploring everything i have still left unturned.
love to all
xx
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Maggie Dyer
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Thanks Chloe
Thank you so much for your blogs, Chloe. I am not really into all this blogging as you know but I am thoroughly enjoying reading your travelblogs. You write eloquently and I shall keep them for ever. We do miss you but of course you are having the ball of your life. Fondest love, Maggie xx