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Generally, James and I don´t make return trips - there are too many other places in the world to discover! But passing down the Pacific coast of Peru, overnighting in Lima was unavoidable, a city we had already visited five years previous.
My overriding memory of Lima was that it was a kip and I could see why Paddington Bear left. Compared to the sunny heights of Cusco and Lake Titicaca it was indeed "darkest Peru". The city is afflicted for half the year with grey skies and a constant drizzle. Not a wet drizzle that can be deflected with an umbrella, a miserable misty one that left a deep damp chill in my bones. Apparently it can be a lovely city when the sun appears. On both our visits to Lima it didn´t. This time though despite the drizzle, Lima left a better impression on me.
First, our hotel (Hotel Espana
) was like an art museum full of statues and large paintings, except everything was fake. Even after a 10 hour overnight bus ride, walking past a Goya self-portrait and a full-sized Michaelangelo - replica or not - was pretty cool. Now the website flatters the hotel, it really wasn´t the plushest place but the hot water worked and the bed didn´t give me back ache. Happy days.
Second, we came across a gem of a freebie - the Museum of the Central Reserve Bank of Peru. Admittedly lured in by the free entry sign (a guaranteed backpacker magnet), we found ourselves in an old colonial bank and in what I consider to be a near perfect museum. Not too big, not too small. Part arqueological artefacts; part gold museum; part coin collection; part indigenous craftwork; and finally an art gallery of Peruvian work through the ages in a fantastic space on the top floor. It is rare to find a museum or art gallery that stands out, a lot get boring and repetitive after a while. This didn´t. It is not mentionned in any guide book I´ve seen and hardly anyone was there. Shame. Did I mention that it was free?
In 2004, the Plaza de Armas was a grim square to hang out in. Auld fellas were strewn across the benches and on the ground after one to many pisco sours. I´m glad to report that the city centre had cleaned up its
act so we spent more time looking at the impressive colonial buildings and less time worried about who was around us. Clock struck 12 in the Plaza de Armas and the changing of the guard began - a ceremony of pomp and grandeur that made me smile. It wasn´t a simple quick swop, the whole affair took about half an hour. Impractical archaic soldier uniforms, live brass band and plenty of marching in time. Even the armed guards were tapping to the beat!
From Jess
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Bill
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Feeding the birds - best pic yet!!!
Love the picture of "Feeding the birds"....it's class!! Really cool pictures overall...well done guys! Makes me want to take more pics! I prefer James' favourite picture in the gallery...sorry Jess. How are ye getting on? What's with the wooly hats? Weather not so good? Arse to that I say!! Things are good here. We're having a bit of good weather, which makes such a change. Haven't been up to much...got a bit of work for an Educational company and Tech It Easy is doing ok. Might have a job in a games company...fingers crossed. Hope you guys are well and having a good time...certainly looks like you are!! Talk to you soon, Bill.