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Published: February 13th 2006
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The Zacatecas Cathedral
I backed up as far as I could. Doesn't it seem like an Indiana Jones' movie? Hola Mi Amigos. Come Estas? We are currently in San Miguel de Allende and loving every second of it! Mainland Mexico is very different from Baja. We both have decided that Baja is Mainland Mexico's Red Headed Stepchild. The roads are better, the people are much more put together, and the sights are tremendous. Beyond Mazatlan, we highly recommend every city we have been to on the mainland, so far. So here we go...
We made it out of Mazatlan pretty easily. The signs take you to where you want to go and the AAA map has done a decent job. However, the map does leave out some of the toll roads. We decided to hit up a toll road to Durango. We noticed every other car heading on the free road, but figured we would enjoy the open road and not worry about a cost. After about 10 kms, the line in the middle of our road stopped and the bushes on the sides of the road crept ever more onto the road. After not seeing another single car in either direction, we decided to take the exit back to the free road and not continue to enter the
Going up?
Ignore the grafiti, and try to imagine climbing for km after km and checking out the view periodically. Amazing. twilight zone, Mexico style. Good choice. Not 2 kms later did the free road pass the spot where the toll road ended in huge piles of dirt. Lesson #24 in Mexico driving, go by the AAA map, no matter how cool the other, non-mapped, road looks. Our new passage to Durango and inner Mexico turned out to be a wonderful newly paved road that climbed and climbed and climbed and climbed and climbed (I honestly could do this forever and still not get the point across) up to Durango. The picture gives a small idea of the scenery for about 150 kms, but doesn't give any justice to the curves in the road. Maybe some of you have driven in Oregon from I5 to the coast, and maybe some others to the Northern California coast from the 101, trust me, you have not driven a winding road until you have driven the Mexico Highway 40. We bumped into a friend in Zacatecas (more later) who said her bus ride through the same pass would have won the gold medal in the puke vest Olympics. (By the way, go USA! Is that a summer or winter game?) Anyway, once on top
Honestly, where are we?
I swear, we took this picture in Mexico. of the "Devil's Backbone" we drove for about 100kms through the Mexican pines and many logging mills into Durango.
Durango is the capital city to the Mexican state of Durango, so it is a very lively town for being in the middle of nowhere. We were the only "gringos" in town (at least that we saw) and loved every second of it. We stayed at a very nice hotel in the middle of town for only 30 dollars and walked around the very clean and people friendly town. Apparently many Hollywood movies have been filmed in Durango. Hmmm. OK. We left Durango fairly early the next morning after a great night sleep and headed off to Zacatecas.
Once on top of the massive Mexican plateau, the drive looks very similar to southeastern Oregon, or any other semi arid, semi cultivated farmland. You can definitely tell where the under ground rivers run when you enter green farmland from very dry cacti ridden plains. The drive went quick and we pulled into Zacatecas with the entire afternoon to poke around town. Thank God we did have a lot of time, because Zacatecas is an Amazing city. Set between two fairly
Seriously, this is Mexico.
An Aquaduct in Zacatecas that was used 2 centuries ago. large hills, the central historic part of town looks so European, you feel as though you have been transported to a completely different continent. Zacatecas' claim to fame is the silver mining industry. Centuries ago, the Spanish found that the hills surrounding Zacatecas produced some of the highest quantity and quality silver in the new world. Sadly, the Spanish rapped the city dry and enslaved much of the native Mexican population to excavate said silver. Fortunately we live in a different time and can marvel at the architecture and beauty the town has been able to preserve throughout the years. We met up with a fellow traveler (the puker) (sorry, but it is true) that we originally met on the ferry from Baja and saw the sights of Zacatecas. We toured the plazas, cathedrals and museums. One museum had Picassos', Coronel, Dali, etc.. and a huge display of traditional Mexican cultural masks. Very cool. While in Zacatecas, you cannot help but see the Swiss cable car traveling through the sky. Come on, how can you not take the damn thing? Too bad the wonderful view of the city was not picturesque due to the sun glare, because it was worth
the 2 bucks and the weird tour guide's monologue. After a nice traditional Mexican dinner we people watched from our hotel room and took in as much Zacatecas (I love saying that, by the way) as we could.
The next day after a long drive south along fully constructed toll roads, we reached out most southerly destination, San Miguel de Allende. Wow! Out host, Tom's, house is truly amazing. In the country, he was able to find an existing skeleton of a house with a wonderful hot springs pool. After a complete remodel of the house, no five star hotels in town can compare to the digs. Tom has been so kind in taking us in and showing us the "insider's San Miguel". Marisa and I spent about two days walking through all the galleries and artesian markets. It was only after we bought a multitude of very unique and authentic (meaning cheap due to the proximity of the makers) decorations did we realize that we don't have a house to put them in. But trust me, one day, years from now; our house is going to look awesome! A day trip through the country to Dolores Hidalgo, Santa
Rosa, and Guanajuato proved to be a talavera (ceramic) dream. Who knew that Marisa loved ceramics and tiles so much? Honestly, who knew? And why didn't you tell me. Forget jewelry or chocolates, I now know the way to my wife's heart, hand painted tiles. If I knew this, I could probably have that chopper I've always talked about with the money I would have saved on gems and clothes. You honestly would not believe the amount of ceramics here. Building a house soon? Thinking of remodeling? Get 'em where they’re made and you will be the envy of every tile aficionado in the USA (There has to be tile aficionados somewhere, right?).
Today, the highlight was definitely the San Miguel Botanical Garden. I've seen Cactus Gardens before and enjoyed them, but this was a huge cut above the rest. Spinney cactus, round short cactus, little cactus, big cactus, green and white cactus, you name it, they've got it. The property also has a great view of San Miguel de Allende centro.
The plan is to spend a few more days here in San Miguel and then head up north to the states sometime by the end of
The Streets of San Miguel
Cobblestones, Topas, One ways, DJ Tango the Dirty Durango (our car) is hating us right now. this week. I've gotta say, if you are even leaning slightly toward a trip to Mexico, do it! There is so much history, amazingly original sights, and wonderful warm-hearted people. I know we will come back, and maybe next time we will actually have a house to put everything thing that we buy here. Check the pics. And the pics for the last entry are posted if you have not seen those yet. See you all (soon to be y'all) in Austin, Texas next weekend!
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Patty
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houses
Hi Marisa and Josh, I'm enjoying your blog. Since you're talking about houses, I thought I'd let you know that Julie and her new husband just bought a house in Austin. They will be moving there this summer.