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Published: June 16th 2009
Drawn like moths to a flame, package tourists and sun-worshiping hippies have been pouring onto Goa's golden sand for decades We chose it as a place to have a holiday from our holiday - where the beer was cheap, the food was excellent, and everything was removed from the horn beeping, noisy, crowded, and ‘for the third time no I don’t want a rickshaw’ India.
However, before ensconcing ourselves on a tropical palm lined beach (albeit one that had nothing on Waihi Beach) we spent a couple of days in the state capital Panaji, exploring the Portuguese flavoured old city.
Unlike the rest of India, Goa remained under the control of Portugal after independence, and it wasn't until the Indian army twigged and marched in in 1961 that Goa was integrated back into India. The results are clearly seen in the architecture and the food, which, by the way, was awesome!
From Panaji we also visited Old Goa - which in the late 16th century was larger than Lisbon and London! As a result of the inquisition and the wane of Portuguese global influence, the only buildings remaining in Old Goa are about 10 massive basilicas and
cathedrals standing shoulder to shoulder with each other, kind of like a Christian amusement park.
After another outstanding Goan meal, we headed for Palolem in south Goa, one of the more popular beaches for backpackers and one of the few that hadn't shut up shop for the season.
The beach was lined with largely informal palm thatched huts, restaurants, and bars. All built in and around the hundreds of coconut palm trees along the beach front (bit of a planner’s nightmare).
Being the end of the season and less than two weeks away from the monsoon, we arrived to find many of the beachfront accommodation and restaurants to be demolished or in the process of.
Our beach camp was due to be demolished the day we left! Nonetheless, there were still a few tourists around, many who had arrived and hadn't moved from their beach lounger for at least two weeks.
In true Goan style we stayed in a very basic beach hut (which tended to leak a little during the pre-monsoon early morning downpours) just a stone’s throw away from the beach.
After being on the move every 1 to 3 days, we
really enjoyed spending six days in one place, swimming in the ridiculously warm sea, sitting on the beach reading, and eating curries (and drinking beers) with our feet in the sand at the beach front restaurants. However it did take us 2-3 days to actually relax!
Our daily sightseeing money was spent on drinking 25 rupee Fosters (cheaper than Kingfisher) our favourite beach side bar whilst watching the IPL games with the Indian crowd and the occasional Pom.
Every male in India has a comment to make about our cricket team when we say we are from New Zealand. Although much to Simon's disappointment no one has been impressed with his story of going to school with Ross Taylor.
Goa served up some of the best food we have had in India (the chicken tikka masala was almost as good as Planet Spice's in Newtown - but not quite) and Amy got involved with DIY roti making.
Contrary to popular belief, Indian food is on the whole not very spicy - a medium curry in NZ is far hotter to the curries served on a daily basis in India!!
Alas, all holidays must come to
Sunset at Palolem
It wasn't always like this due to the unsettled pre-monsoon weather - certainly not the Goa cliche sunsetsan end, and after sitting still for a week, we were excited and keen to move onto North India for the final phase of our journey - and we could hear the golden arches of the McDonald's in Mumbai calling us...
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Jane and Sam
Jane and Sam Price
Sam likes curries
Don't worry Simon, I'm still impressed that you went to school with Ross Taylor! Do let me know if Indian Mc'Ds isn't as spicy as NZ, and if they really do have lamb big macs, or big maaas, or whatever.... Glad you guys are having a great time, Goa looks amazing! And I'm glad to hear the curries aren't too hot! A tropical beach and a not so spicy curry would go down quite well right now ... it's snowing on the Rimutaka hill today! Looking forward to the next blog!