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Published: February 4th 2006
Now this was part of our adventure that I had always looked forward to - The Terracotta Warriors at Xi'an. China proudly proclaims this archaelogical jackpot as 'the eighth wonder of the world' but that must be one of the most hackeyned phrases most frequently overused by tourist boards. Especially as during our stay here we have become more than a little accustomed to the sometimes extreme over promotion and positive spin of chinese marketing. Talk about blowing your own trumpet, China has an entire brass section at work.
But, credit where credit is due. The warriors are a sight to behold. Only discovered around 30 years ago when workman were digging a well, 3 pits in total have been uncovered containing treasures that would have Tony Robinson dribbling with envy. Thought to be about 2,200 years old, the pits contain a sizeable army (infantry men, charioteers, archers etc.) of lifesize terracotta figures who stand guard over the nearby tomb of Emperor Qin. To date a couple of thousand warriors have been unearthed - each is unique, and it has been suggested that the different faces, hairstyles etc., may have been based on actual soldiers in Qin's army. Excavation is
expected to continue for approx. another 10 years and it has been estimated that up to 6,000 figures could be found. The figures are mostly a faded light brown, but in their freshly fired glory they were painted and wearing fabrics, armour, carrying weapons . . . One can only dream of how impressive a sight this army must have made. I don't know if Qin commissioned this incredible feat before he died, or whether loyal followers felt it was a fitting tribute after his death. There are no historical records of the Terracotta Warriors so these are questions that can only be asked and pondered. What we do know is that once the army was complete, the doors leading to the pits were sealed and the entire thing was covered with earth. This wonder of the world was never meant for our eyes. Only a chance shovel led to this discovery. Puts a chill down my spine just to wonder what else is out there, just waiting to be found, or maybe not to be found. Puts a little magic back to see this marvel, good for the soul to still be able to feel speechless and unable to
explain such ambrosial design. Can't imagine anyone building something so magnificent now, and then hiding it away, being happy just to create it for a divine hidden purpose. Seems like too many people in our time are clambouring for recognition and fame, which is maybe why to see the warriors feels so stirring, in an age where so little can be so hyped. That and the fact that their existence is due to a faith so big and strong, and I find it hard to imagine such devotion.
Anyhoo, asides from a wander down to the muslim quarter of the city (colourful, cramped and chaotic, teeming with stalls selling dried fruits, nuts and Bruce Lee shoes) there is not much more to report from our short time here. We have found Xi'an to be fairly kind to us foreigners, housing a McDonalds (nicknamed McWait-a-minute here due to the perpetual queues), KFC, Pizzahut and Delifrance. Following the disastrous 'eye ball dinner' that Steve described last entry, we have sought refuge for the following few meals in such big boy brands even though, thanks to Morgan Spurlock, we know exactly what they are doing to our liver function. But life is
all about calculated risk, and sometimes it really is better the deep fried animal carcass you know (than the one being sold down the street by the old geezer in the dirty gloves).
Next stop Beijing. M x
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helen lord
non-member comment
better the devil you know
better the deep fried carcus you know... I agree! i was so pleased to see a Mcdonalds in Delhi though unfortunately it was shut. Have fun looking at more ambrosial designs big love xx