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Published: February 4th 2006
We'd heard Chengdu was a city with big pollution problems. In fact, according to the Rough Guide, 8 of the 10 most polluted cities in the world are to be found in China, though where Chengdu ranks exactly within the 8 i can't say.
I can say however, that our flight from the idyllic Yangshuo was delayed for 4 hours - and the reason first given on the boards was 'Pollution' at Chengdu. I wondered just how bad it could be for a pilot to be told 'sorry, it's too polluted for you to land here...'!
This was later amended to 'Bad Weather' and left us hoping that the truth, as often is the case, lay somewhere in the middle...
Not having long to spend in any one place in China, we've been a little more regimented with our planning. As such, by the first morning following arrival we'd already booked excursions, changed hotels and most importantly, obtained our tickets out...! With New Year celebrations still in full swing, getting in quick is the only way to guarantee passage to the next destination on the day required.
Chengdu is firmly on the map for a rapidly developing China:
it's seen lots of foreign investment, construction and big businesses making themselves at home. It was firmly on the map for us and many other tourists however, because of Pandas - it also being home to a world renowned 'Panda Breeding and Research Facility'. Of course, Pandas alone are hardly reason enough to make a stop when time is tight....
Opera is very popular here, so on our first night we decided to take in a show. Apparently, opera in the province of Sichuan can take several different forms, from puppetry to shadow puppetry to 'mask switching' to the conventional singing and prancing around (sorry Sal). We felt that if possible, a mix of all would be of most interest and sure enough our very helpful booking agent assured us that it was.
It wasn't until after we'd paid however, that she seemed to be substituting the word 'Opera' for the term 'Cultural Show'. Following a harrowing experience, rained in for what seemed an eternity at a 'cultural show' in southern India, this did have us somewhat concerned. Fortunately our fears were unfounded and a brisk 90 minutes took us through all forms as promised plus more. The
highlight was a sprightly young girl who looked as if she'd just leapt from the pages of a manga comic. Lying on her back, she proceeded to twirl all manner of unlikely objects over her head with her feet, from drums to tables, and all with consummate control. I was hoping she'd attempt with a panda, but it didn't happen.
The next morning however, we did indeed get an eyeful of those furry little layabouts. Yes, it seems pandas are in desperate need of such 'Breeding and Research ' facilities the world over if they're to see the end of another century. This was the notion we came away with at the end of the tour. For once it would seem it's not only mankind's destructive intervention that's to blame for their dwindling numbers. Natural selection is also staking its claim....
Yes, they've lost their natural habitat over the years to the developing world, and their food source as a result. But giant pandas don't appear to make it any easier for themselves; lacking an atavistic drive that demands survival. This is immediately apparent when walking around the various enclosures. Solitary animals by nature, they eat for
around half of the day, then move as little as possible for the rest. They grip bamboo shoots in their big furry paws (complete with 'fake' thumb) and strip its leaves between their teeth before rolling them into a nice 'leaf cigar' to casually chew through. Then when they crash, they crash in style! Face down atop their wooden platform, paw hanging breezily over the edge - or sometimes flat on their backs, spreadeagled, seemingly without a care in the world. You could only imagine that the keepers had trained them especially to please the anthropomorphic gaze of the passing tourists.
Because sure enough - they are cute little buggers, and this would seem to be their saving grace! In fact, they set the benchmark of how cute you have to be for the Chinese not to eat you.
The pandas chosen diet would seem to be part of the problem. They have to eat vast quantities of bamboo for any nutritional benefit. This requires a lot of their time and energy. Of course, mating requires a little effort too (at least, it should...) and they just don't seem to have the extra available. This, coupled with the
fact that the females are only interested for a fleeting period once every year, makes chances of off-spring slim. This is where the scientists take over.
Apparently, the center is a world leader is breeding pandas, with many successful births following artificial insemination. We were told this along with many other proud claims, during the short movie all visitors are welcome to see. Our first (and most likely last) experience of panda propaganda!
Sure enough though, the pandas inside all seemed to be treated well and enjoying their lives in captivity. The crowds are well controlled and there's plenty of advice for anyone thinking of screaming at them or throwing fire-crackers in their direction - often voiced as if from the animals themselves. One sign reading "Love Me - Don't Bother Me"! Advice that transcends pandas.
Not surprisingly, some of the little fellas are occasionally whisked from their enclosures and placed on the lap of a fee paying public. Yes, for 800 Yuan (about 70 quid) you could have your picture taken with a 'baby' giant panda - the cutest combination known to man. For this price, i would have expected to mate with it myself, so
Foggy, Chengdu
Most days were like this. passed on the opportunity. You'll notice the photos of Martine with furry friend, though that's the 'Red', not 'Giant' panda, and a bargain at only 50 Yaun!
We also decided to take in the local Sichaun cuisine, for which the region is noted. Martine suggested a restaurant in town, known for its set meal deals where for a reasonable price you'll be presented with various little dishes. Indeed, the place was crammed with locals spread across three floors and we were ushered to the very top, no doubt where the English speaking staff were, ready with the English printed menu.
Actually, we've been quite lucky when it's come to the language barrier. Restaurants were one place i imagined we'd have difficulty, but so far we've been well accommodated. Admittedly, we've been for the most part travelling through larger cities, more accustomed to western guests. But we've also been fortunate, meeting locals willing to lend a helping hand when needed. Being tonal, the language is particularly tricky to deliver correctly - and when attempting it, i often feel i sound more Geordie than Chinese. In fact, I find it very hard to resist suffixing every sentence of my
Eh? Chengdu
Strange nativity like scene in one of the Chengdu parks, for Chinese New Year. pigeon Chinese with "Arrrrr-eeeeeeet???!".
I digress. We chose the first set option on the menu, it sounding varied and not too unfamiliar (the English translations are often somewhat loose). It certainly seemed to be avoiding dog, and this was our primary concern (perhaps ever so
slightly less my concern than Martine's... since a local told me they taste like lamb!! hmmmmm....).
Anyhoo, the meal started auspiciously enough. Along came some rice, some spicy prawns and and some kind of pea & ham combination. It was as i was crunching through my 2nd or 3rd prawn however that i realised, in my blind hungry haste, that they weren't prawns at all. A blank space was deliberately left in my mind as to what actually
were, and i repeated to myself - 'Prawn'.... 'Prawn'.... as i continued to chew. That was until Martine said the word 'larvae' and my pretence came crashing down. We then noticed that the locals sitting opposite were actually peeling theirs; something else i'd neglected to acknowledge. More and more dishes arrived, each a little scarier than the one before. Every 4th or 5th dish one of us would optimistically declare 'why this is almost edible'.
Very gloopy, glutinous and gooey textures that left a thick film on your teeth when you bravely plunged in. Lot of bland greasy tastes, sometimes ending with a crazy chilli kick right at the end when you least expected it. We left feeling a little queasy and a little less inclined to sample the local cuisine with such innocence. Not wanting to give the wrong impression however, we have had many a tasty meal on the road in China. We'll just likely play it a little safer from now on...
Finally, we took a 3hr road trip to the 'nearby' town of Leshan - home to what is considered the largest stone sculpture of Buddha in the world. Carved from a mountain in around 713AD, it took some 90 years to finish. Unfortunately for us, it took almost as long to actually get to see him: many holiday making Chinese deciding to visit on the same day. Still, at some 71 meters tall, he certainly was an impressive sight (and you wouldn't mess with him).
Sx
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jo taylor
non-member comment
eye-balls!
the local cuisine you endured in chengdu reminded me of a bush-tucker trial on i'm a celebrity get me out of here!!!!!! especially the eye-balls!!! but jordan did eat hers!