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Published: March 26th 2009
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Taranaki
Traverse the paddock, hurdle the electrified fence, sidestep the cow dung and you just may stumble upon a lovely little point break like this one. Number of surfers - me! So I did manage some really fun waves in Taranaki and like many parts of the New Zealand coastline, accessing these waves can be more of a mission than pulling up in the car directly in front of your favourite break. My own little hideaway point involved a minor adventure. It starts out with a jaunt across some private farming land, then:
"Gary, I think these fences are electrified."
"Yes, but these sections here are packing tape and you can't put an electric current through pack... OUCH! OOO that smarts."
Remembering the incident at Fox Glacier, Penny was careful not to overdo the laughing but still couldn't completely contain herself. So once again the karma Gods were smiling down upon me and barely 2 minutes later.... It's amazing how old cow dung can look so innocuous and rock hard on the outside, but one stray step and Penny discovered it is still awfully green and mushy below that crusty surface. But did I laugh? Maybe a little on the inside but my exterior was pure compassion.
The surf itself was "small but a ball" and justified the 4 days we spent in the area. We were actually forced to spend a
Stent Road
Surf packed to the rafters with 4 guys out. couple of days extra because a small bingle in the campervan (now that DID hurt) meant we had to leave it for a day or two of body resurrection.
This could have been frustrating but there's a Spanish proverb that goes "no hay mal que por bien no venga", which has the rough equivalent in English of "every cloud has a silver lining". The silver linings in this case were the surf, the town we were staying and the befriending of Nigel the bagpipe playing panelbeater from Opunake. Give Nigel the tiniest piece of car DNA and he'll create an antique vehicular work of art. It was almost embarrassing handing over the Toyota camper after seeing some of his other handywork.
Nigel was also pretty sharp with the travel ideas for the area. We were headed for the interior and Nigel suggested we take the Forgotten World Highway. I'm glad someone remembered it as the route is slow but magnificent, particularly around Whangamonamona (try pronouncing that if you have a stuttering problem).
The Republic of Whangamonamona, population 80, declared its independence from NZ back in 1993 but fortunately the immigration restrictions aren't overly severe. The population swells each day to
Opunake
Old man on a bike superimposed on one of Opunake's murals. about 120 with 40 or so transient tourists calling in for a peek-a-boo and a beer at the local.
Our first overnight stop in the centre was the Tongariro National Park, where, approaching dusk, we stumbled upon a carload of 18 year old Germans in a broken down van. The battery was dead and they were trying to clutch start it. Now I've never been accused of being overly savvy with anything mechanical but I'm fairly certain that in order to clutch start a car, you're going to need a clutch. This automatic van was going nowhere until some jumper leads were found, an unlikely prospect on this very remote dirt road. Twas a long, cool night for our German friends.
Our short stay involved the 18klm Tongariro Crossing tramp through spectacular volcanic scenery. It's extremely popular but despite all the warnings, a lot of people seemed grossly underprepared. The terrain was at times tricky, plenty of ups, the weather on top - FRIGID AND WINDY! Still, there were no shortage of partakers either out of shape or underclothed. Lots of shorts, t-shirts, and sandals, but there must always be a champion and this day's award went to the lady
Mount Egmont/Taranaki.
Iconic Mount Egmont stands sentinal over the entire length of Taranaki's coastline. with the short cotton skirt, singlet top and bare feet.
The crossing was followed by a soothing thermal bath in Taupo, another magnificently located NZ city on the banks of the nations largest lake.
From Taupo it's a quick jaunt up Highway 5 to Rotorua, which brings us to the title. My mind kept wondering how many times an uninitiated person, on approaching Rotorua, must enquire about somebody "dropping a whoopsy", or one of its more colloquial derivatives.
The locals will tell you that you get used to the smell. I don't want to. Again with the silver linings, any actual windy is well disguised so if you have a hankering for kidney beans and French onion soup, this is the place to indulge without any fear of recrimination for the aftermath.
Despite the olfactory challenge, these geothermal regions are incredible. Wandering around and you get the feeling the entire world is ready to go KABOOM!
After all this, we were left with about 4 days for me to catch up on a few waves. I should have bitten the bullet and gone straight to Raglan but rather I followed some recommendations and ended up a little north of Auckland.
Whangamonamona
Still life in the Republic of Whangamonamona. Surfing wise, this meant grovelling in shore breaks on the East Coast and the complete opposite on the West Coast - duck diving overhead closeouts. C'est la vie.
I've waffled on way too long so I'll wrap up NZ at the end of a glorious month. On the environmental catwalk, Kiwiland proudly struts its great outdoors near the top of the world pecking order. If you are thinking about coming over, book your ticket now. You can't possibly regret it.
Oops, I almost forgot there's another side to this story, my faithful wife and navigator (hereby to be know as Wrongway Colvin).
"Hey Penny, in 2 words or less, describe your month in the Land of the Long White Cloud".
"CHOICE BRO".
I couldn't have said it better if I'd given you that line myself (which of course I did)
Penny and Gary.
(and if any of you have never seen Penny tap dance, try and be around next time a bee flies up her pants)
Gary and Penny.
More images at:
www.colvinyeates.zenfolio.com
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Jeanette
non-member comment
Luv it!
Gazza, you make me laugh. Just LUV your travelblog!!