2 of 3: Varanasi

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Raw Sewage just might bring you
closer to your god(s)!

Varanasi was a huge leap from Bodh Gaya with a population of well over a million people. Varanasi is located on the Ganges River and is spiritually centered around the nearly 4 mile stretch of ghats.

A ghat, in appearance, is little more than a set of steps that leads to the river, however, spiritually, they are very important to the Hindu universe. An estimated 60,000 Hindis come to this stretch of ghats each day while 30 large sewers expel raw sewage into the river. Ironically, the Ganges River is considered one of the most sacred in India, however, is also the most polluted.

Living on the Willamette River (at varying levels of nastiness) in Portland is nothing compared to living on the Ganges. I read in my Lonely Planet book that samples taken of the Ganges River have shown 1.5 million feacal coliform bacterial (poop) per 100 ml of water; 500 feacal coliform bacteria per 100 ml of water is considered safe for bathing. Resident of Varanasi not only bath in the water, they cook with the water and drink the water (though it is claimed to be filtered).

The first morning in Varanasi, I took a boat ride from the top of the ghats to the end and back again. It was interesting and beautiful to witness the morning rituals of the people (assuming that you could forget about the horridness of the water!). My accommodation was next to one of the most important of the ghats. The ghat where dead bodies were publicly cremated. I tried to pretend that the burning smell was something else. (yikes)

I really like Varanasi. I loved getting lost in the maze of buildings behind the ghats, weaving in between cows and looking at the myriad of shops and houses. The ‘street’ was only big enough for pedestrians making the biggest hazard very large piles of cow poop.

My least favorite part about my time in Varanasi was my accommodation.

First, let me explain how I usually travel. I usually go budget but maybe not the very bottom. I often prefer a private bathroom, but it is not an absolute must. I don’t like air conditioning so I never opt for it. I can sleep anywhere so the thread count of sheets or the fluffiness of pillows is rarely something I look for.

We will call my room in Varanasi, ‘The Pink Cell’. The cell was windowless with very tall ceilings and walls painted the brightest pink you have ever seen. With dimensions of approximately 4 ft X 8 ft (with 12 ft ceilings) and a fan that only had a turbo speed, there were times that we could call it 'The Pink Wind Tunnel.'

Then there was the bed (a term used loosely here). It was a steel cot with a steel, mesh grate, covered by a ½ inch think mat. After one night, I thought I had had the worst night of sleep in my entire life, then I spent another night….and one more. I only wanted to stay for 2 nights in Varanasi but was forced into the 3rd night when I couldn’t get an earlier train. I did enquire about another room, nope all was full. I even called one of the fancier hotels, thinking I could treat myself to a good night sleep on my third night, nope all was full.

Not sure I can complain too much, the cost for one nights ‘rest’ in the pink cell: $1.20; the life perspective gained from 3 nights in The Pink Cell, priceless!

Next stop, Taj Mahal!

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Photos

The Pink Cell
This photo was taken from the furthest end of the room. I wish the camera could do justice to the 'pinkness' of the room.

Comments

[carl]

ugh!
What were you drinking?!?!