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February 6th 2009
Published: February 6th 2009
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I am finally beginning to feel as if I am getting my bearings. The hyper-insanity is dulling to mere insanity.

Some recent happenings:

Visit to Shwayabhu -a notable Buddhist stupa perched on a hill above the city of Kathmandu. The scores of monkeys that inhabit its environs easily overshadow its immense stature and religious significance. Experiencing monkeys freely interspersed amongst humans was a definite first. They are bold, frisky and cunning. The general advice is not to look them directly in the eye.

Yoga- our program contracts a crazy yoga master dude to come and relax us every now and again. I am quite certain I will never attain a level of flexibility that would allow me to properly do the maneuvers, but nevertheless, I try. Psychic hibernation though, is quite pleasing.

Sitar/tabla—Also, for our entertainment, the program brought some highly accomplished sitar and tabla (traditional nepali drums) musicians to perform for us. The level of skill and craft exhibited by the tabla player impressed me. When I think hand drums, I think Africa/Latin America, not South Asia. But, he really had some intense polyrhythmic gnar gnar going on that complimented the sitar astonishingly well.

Patan, Durbar Square—Beautiful old square, many large Hindu temples, good shopping. Definitely one of those post-card-esque sites of Kathmandu. The larger city-shot type photo is of Durbar Square.

Haggling: taxis/pashmina--Basically all transactions require haggling, which is by nature directly oppositional to my nature. On one hand my nepali is just good enough engage in the haggling, but I just have no idea how much things are supposed to cost and I am certain that even when I negotiate prices down I am still getting duped. For instance, Tamar bought a nice colorful pashmina the other day. We negotiated from 1500 rps. to 750 rps. (about $9.50), but apparently we could have done better? Taxi fares are arranged beforehand, Taxis drivers complain that we live is sooooo far away, so they don’t come down. Nevertheless, you can still traverse the entire city for 400 rps. (like $5). Hopefully by May I will have some keen haggling skills.

Until now I have painted a rather favorable depiction of Kathmandu. I would be remiss to go much further without mention of the condition of life for the average inhabitant. The level of filth and pollution is striking. Worse perhaps, is a general feeling of despair, which according to my preliminary observations, is sadly legitimate. So, I will devote some bloggage to that. This weekend we are going to Bhaktapur and Nagarkhot (two cities just outside Kathmandu in the valley) for a little study excursion.




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12th February 2009

hey, don't let the poverty get you down; the u.s. will soon catch up.

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