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Published: February 5th 2009
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Vik's
Our move to Amritsar took us out of Rajasthan and into the state of Punjab; the dusty browns became fertile greens and the waterways flowed rather than stagnated. With this as our introduction, it came as something of a surprise when we exited the railway station (Steve's technique for avoiding the army of awaiting rickshaw drivers to take us to "best hotel" is really developing into something quite special) and found ourselves in perhaps the filthiest street that we have yet wandered in to (the only reason it gets a 'perhaps' is as a result of the smog being so thick that it seems almost unfair to level too bold a claim when our ability to see was so poor). The levels of deprivation were still staggering, and, perhaps because I expected less people without in a state that is known for it's abundance, it was somehow more shocking, if not any more appalling. Despite this, Amritsar still provided two of the highlights so far - the Sikh Golden Temple and the Border Ceremony at Wagha. As with many holy sites, the mix of the sightseer with those that have journeyed there to worship is a peculiar one, and the
Classy Motor
Andy's latest ebay purchase, or Dad's Auction bargain? Temple was packed - quite literally - with both, but it really was spectacular, whatever your motivation to be there. And the deliberately-ridiculous ceremony at the India-Pakistan border was a performance worthy of a spot at the Playhouse Shell! But those things done, it was time - at last - to leave behind the hassle and the chaos of the cities and head north into the quiet (and the cold) of the Himalayan foothills.
We opted to continue our journey by train in the hope of making the second part of it on the supposedly incredible narrow-gauge railway (made up of 950 bridges that take you up through the mountains). However our plans needed some serious revision when we inadvertently missed our stop and took a detour into Kashmir. It wasn't the two hour 'delay' that alerted us to our error (two hours is practically on time here) it was the growing military presence that started to make us wonder. Unfortunately our wonderings came a little too late and we were well into Kashmir when we realised we had gone off piste. Needless to say, the addition of a five-hour round trip meant that we had missed our train
and we were back on our old friend, the bus. By this time it was night, and I suspect the veil of darkness that prevented any view also protected us from moments of real terror as we made the ascent.
And now we are in Dharamsala. Beautiful, calm, almost-peaceful, Dharamsala. It's not only the backdrop of the mountains that makes it feel so different, but as the residence of the Dalai Lama and 1000's of exiled Tibetans, it has (unsurprisingly) a strongly Tibetan feel. Our plan is to stay here, relaxing and walking, for at least a few days. There is also plenty of yoga and meditation-type activity here, although at the mention of this Steve's body reacted defiantly and he finally succumbed to a nasty bout of sickness. He is, thankfully, much better now, so maybe we can go in search of a guru after all...
Steve's
Back from the Delhi belly/Amritsar Ar... Anyway, Amritsar, as Vik has already said, was a bit of a mix, our most extreme to date. We decided to take a cycle Rickshaw, reassured that they were powered by the lower castes, so therefore helping to spread our wealth! However as
we balanced on a tiny seat, holding on as hard as we could surrounded by speeding, horn honking traffic, powered by a wheezing 90 year old man who appeared to have no idea where we wanted to go, we sunk from our earlier worthiness. The Golden Temple just glowed so brightly, surrounded by a beautiful blue lake full of large Goldfish. The serenity of the temple area felt very special, despite the obvious pushing and shoving to get in. Over the lake drifted the sung recital of the Adi Granth (Sikh holy book), which takes 48hrs to get through! Its gentle soothing rhythm washed away the busy sounds of the city. We then decided to go to a Rough Guide recommended Cafe just outside, as we sat and ate our breakfast chatting to some really nice Sikh people we noticed the Rats in the corner... which made the remainder of our food suddenly less appealing.
We later arranged a taxi to Wagha, much safer travel option we thought. Then as we relaxed in the back, gradually getting used to the terrible driving, we suddenly screeched to halt, as a rickshaw pulled a U just infront of of us...out jumped our incensed driver, who screamed at then punched the hapless and very aged rickshaw driver. We then felt really bad for the old man, and frustrated by our lack of ability to challenge our none English speaking driver.
Wagha was fantastic, it started with a 500mtr sprint to the seats when first gates were opened allowing the waiting hundreds in. We were then split into male and female seating, despite numerous stampedes when people tried to mix the groups. The party atmosphere then started, Very loud Hindi dance music and patriotic songs were blasted at us, whilst a... rabble-rouser incited the crowd. Then various women were invited to charge up to the Pakistan border gate screaming and waving enormous Indian flags, before a full party dance (ladies only, and no Vik!!) took place just in front of the gate. From what i could see the Pakistan side was much more ordered and sedate, however i could hear the occasional shout, which prompted a barrage of jeering from the India side, although it would be great to see it from the Pakistan side. Then Soldier's of both sides appeared to do their best to impersonate goose stepping cockerels, before the flag was lowered and the entire India side sprinted to the now shut gate.
Mcleod Ganj (the first thing i was offered upon my arrival), a few thousand metres up in the Himalaya, brilliant. I can only struggle to describe the quiet (other than at 1-2am when every dog in the village parties) relaxing atmosphere. Above our heads, and beneath the terraces ride tens of eagles, buzzards and we think Vultures. Monkeys, bounce between the balconies, Little owls in the trees, and we spotted mongoose on the paths bellow. This truly feels like a very special place, although not very Indian. We may stay some time.
ps. Dylan, we dont sleep with chickens...the rats ate them all.
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yvonne sullivan
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must be up a mountain somewhere lol
hiya you two. you are either having a well earned rest . or you are busy stuck up a mountain somewhere. lol hope you are still having fun. keep up with the pics. and agree with ian. some parts sound greta and otehrs sound abit dire lol. take care both of you. mum xx