Mindfulness and intention

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4 February

I was thinking this morning about how traveling and living in another culture can increase our mindfulness and intentionality as well as our self-reflection. Remembering not to drink the water, not even to brush your teeth with the water or open your mouth in the shower—these are reasonable health precautions that I tend to follow even in countries with potable water, at least until I'm acclimated. I rarely get sick, and it's worth it to me to be a little over-cautious since I'd feel pretty annoyed to spend part of my trip ill.

However, what I actually value about the practice goes far beyond the health issues. Thinking about not drinking the water raises many questions: Do local people drink the water successfully, or do they also become ill? Where does the water come from? How (if at all) is it cleaned? What do people in the countryside do for water? What are the water rights issues and disputes? What are the implications of some people having more access to better water than others? What are the implications of refusing to drink the local water? What should you do when offered water or food you think may be unsafe for you? (Answer: A regretful look and apology, with a hand on your stomach and a sad grimace has worked everywhere I've been—everyone knows about diarrhea, and it's always funny when it's the other guy, so poking a little fun at yourself is usually met with affectionate understanding.) Thinking about water reminds me to conserve it. Being able to brush my teeth with around 2 oz. of bottled water demonstrates that more water is not necessary. This in turn makes me more intentional when I brush my teeth at home, where I have the illusion of unlimited, free water with no environmental consequences.

This morning I breakfasted on scrambled eggs, a little baguette, coffee (3 servings in a 3-oz. cup), and fruit: Papaya, mango, and “milk fruit,” which I'll get a photo of later. All of my free breakfast options at the hotel are some variant on this. I had a conversation with a retired nurse and her husband; she is here for February volunteering at Angkor Hospital for Children. She gave me the name of her contact there, so I'll swing by.

After breakfast, I walked out to the scenically-named National Route Number 6 and headed west. This was a route even more full of dust, exhaust, and the odor of burning plastic than the side streets. I walked a good way out, observing from landmarks that the driver of my tuk tuk (gas scooter-propelled cart) yesterday apparently got lost and drove in circles for a while.

I went by Earthwalkers, a guest house with good politics. It's nominally off the beaten path, though the area is under development. I didn't look at rooms, but the lounge/bar was pleasant and cool, populated by more of a backpacker crowd. Earthwalkers provides discounted rooms to long-term volunteers. The bulletin boards announced their partnership with The Cambodian Orphan Save Organization (COSO), a non-profit NGO that, among other things, appears to train children in traditional Khmer dances. They also had pamphlets for Friends without a Border, which funds Angkor Hospital for Children, and information about giving money to begging children. They had a stack of pamphlets on “Child Safe Traveler Tips” from ChildSafe Network, including the tip that orphanages that allow voluntarism should have child protection policies and not just allow drop-ins. That's why I have my state criminal background check in my bag. It also has phone numbers and translations for reporting child abuse.

As I visit, I'll provide contacts and notes. I haven't checked this list against Friendship with Cambodia's resources, so caveat emptor—do some investigating. If you have information about these sites, feel free to send it along and I'll post it.

Staying on Route 6 would take me to some better bird-watching parts of the road, near the airport, but instead I turned north. I wound up walking for over two hours. Once I was off the main road, I was on a combination of improved and unimproved dirt roads through the non-tourist part of Siem Reap. Here were people's houses, chickens, cows, naked children, sleepy dogs, and stores selling inexplicable metal parts and liters of petrol in old Johnnie Walker Red bottles. There was a constant stream of scooter and bicycle traffic. What there weren't were tourists. I did not see any other identifiable people from the US, Europe, or other parts of Asia. There were some signs in English, so I would assume they're there, living in inexpensive flats, but I didn't see them. Interestingly, I did smell much more marijuana than in the tourist part of town. It is a truth universally acknowledged, that a traveler saying "hello" in your language is hilarious (it probably sounds like "goooot marnig!"). I stayed on the roads. Cambodia has more unexploded ordnance than most countries, so you stay on the road.

I returned to the hotel before it was too hot. I've been working at my tiny computer for several hours, through the heat of the day. I may take another walk, or read, and then dip in the pool later. Right now it is full of French and Austrians.

Later: With a U.S. Olympic rower, I made my way around the torn up street between here and the Old Market. I ate Khmer Tom Yum with tofu and a limeade in a cafe with conflicting messages on their signs and tee shirts. They are also the Americans Abroad for Obama center. Now, the common Khmer scarf is called a "krama," so take a minute to think about what they were selling. That's right--Obama-kramas! Yes, of course I bought one. How could I not?

I wandered over to the Singing Tree Cafe, where I experienced volunteer information overload. I may catch a school tour with Schools for Children of Cambodia that departs from the cafe every Friday. I also picked up brochures for some trips with local groups and agencies, and put myself on a list with a conservation group that gives bird-watching tours. I'm hoping to join a group; otherwise, it's too expensive. on the way back, I walked through a wat.

I saw some thrillingly named junk food today. I also bought a bottle of Thai Mekhong Whiskey. It is reputed to be vile, yet very popular. Perhaps costing $1.50 a bottle has a hand in that. Review to follow.

Marcia: I regret that my current bird guide pictures birds that are not necessarily labeled what anyone else thinks they are. Thus, these are tentative sightings:

• Common tailorbird (Orthotomus sutorius)
  
• Black drongo (Dicrurus macrocercus)
  
• Asian brown flycatcher (Muscicapa dauurica)
  
• ?Spot-billed duck
  

Check out this guide online: World Bird Guide.

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Photos

Fish massage
A little too much like cleaning my wounds with maggots--I'd do it, but only if necessary

Khmer children
It's hard to see, but the boy on the right is flying a little kite.

Off message
Same venue as previous photo

Comments

[mrs random]

Burned Meat
Hmmm, I'm thinking maybe barbeque-flavor? Something like, "Hey, it's a nice afternoon - how about we burn some meat?" Interesting thoughts about water. There's a City Club presentation this month about Eugene's water supply. Taking note of waste is a great idea. I'll try to be more conscious of it...

[Krissy]

Love it!
Hello! I just checked your blog for the first time this afternoon and realized I had a lot of catching up to do! Whew! What amazing experiences you have had already. I can't wait to read more and see more fantastic photos! Happy bird watching!

[Mary]

water conservation
This log was really interesting! I really love the lady's yellow shirt. That cracked me up...which isn't a good thing since I'm in the computer lab trying to finish up my almost late 492 paper :X I will be more conscious of my water use from now on and I was thinking about how blessed I am to be able to get fresh, clean, free, filtered water from the fountain soda machines in the Resident Halls everyday.