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Published: January 15th 2009
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We are now sat in Udaipur having just spent a couple of days in Ahmedabad, the capital of the Gujarat region. As we have reached the halfway point of our time in India, and as we have had a relatively quiet couple of days, we thought we would try to describe some of our thoughts on the everyday India that we have experienced. This is kind of our 'exhale' after the 'deep breath' of landing in India! We'd read lots about what to expect here, but we don't think anything can fully prepare you for the utter chaos that is this country.
Streets/Roads
People in Europe will say that the roundabout in Paris around the Arc-de-Triumphe is as crazy as roads can get. EVERY road here is like that, with added; cows, goats, dogs, pigs, chickens, monkeys. And this is before mentioning the vehicles; rickshaws, auto-rickshaws, motorbikes (no helmet required), taxis, buses, carts, cyclists. Throw in a few thousand pedestrians walking along the roads as the paths are all taken up with stalls, and there is literally no room to manouvre, and certainly no rules. They drive on the left hand side of the road. Or the Right. Or the
Ahmedabad
Sweeties! middle. Beeping your horn means you are going left. Or right. Or straight on. At roundabouts you give way to everyone and no-one. It is both thrilling and petrifying!! Amazingly it works.
People
Its hard to be overly welcoming to a lot of locals who approach you. We get approached roughly every 5 minutes by someone, and we'd guess that around 80% want something from you. Either to look at their shop ("looking is free"), jump in their taxi/tour, or simply begging. However, there are some people who are genuinley interested in speaking with us. We've sat on trains and in parks and restaurants and chatted for long periods to some really lovely people. We've noticed a major difference in attitude towards us, between the 'older' generation and the 'youth'. The older generation seem very warming to us, pleased to see us and talk to us. The younger generation are content to stare, shout and jeer at us. We have been told that this is soley down to our colour?! We wonder if it goes deeper. There is a distinct lack of females between the ages of 10-30 here, which is quite strange, and something we think adds to
Ahmedabad
In the Jama Masjid the groups of lad's attitudes? We find it amazing that its offensive for us to show affection, when the guys here - again due to the lack of females - walk hand in hand or arm in arm.
At many tourist attractions, we are stopped by families or groups for photos (we've had 20-30 photos taken - we think they think we're Posh'n'Becks?) and as much as this is fine, some simply wont take "no' for an answer and camera phones appear from everywhere - people walk backwards in front of you snapping; people sit or stand next to you so their friends can snap you. For the majority, its amusing but sometimes (especially when you are feeling unwell) it can feel hugely intrusive.
Religion
This is a hugely religious country. Its said that it is a Hindu/Muslim/Sikh/Buddhism mix here, but it feels to us very much that it's a Hindu nation with elements of the others in isolated pockets. We have witnessed many Hindu funeral processions, and many Saddhus (Holy Men) roam the streets - some as beggars. Every shop, cafe, hotel has shrines to one of their many gods. There is an almost constant call to prayer,
Ahmedabad
Outside Swaminarayan Temple and if you happen to mention to someone that you are not particularly religious, it is almost inconceivable to them. There seems to be a few differences though compared to the western lifestyle. Girls are not to show their shoulders or knees and are often asked to wear head dresses in shrines. Yet, some Saree designs allow a bare mid-rift?! Likewise, some shrines do not even permit females in to them.
All in all, this is a perplexing country. We've found it tougher than expected truth be told, but we know that on reflection we will look back with a lot of pride and satisfaction of our time here. This may not sound like the most positive review, but we are genuinely enjoying our time here!
So to quickly summise the last couple of days;
12th January 2009
We caught the 0625 train from Mumbai (after almost going to the wrong station!!) to Ahmedabad (also called Amdavad). We saw a beautiful sunrise and actually arrived on time! We found our hotel, had a walk around and generally took it easy - we did have time to discover some nice chocolate cake though!
13th January 2009
We
Ahmedabad
In the Jama Masjid took a rickshaw to Swaminarayan Temple, a beautifully colourful wood carved temple in the Old City. We then walked through the markets to Jama Masjid where we found some well recieved peace from the heaving streets. It was then that we discovered Mirch Massala - surely the finest restaurant in India! After being talked out of seriously hot curries by the very kind waiter, we settled on a Murgh Makhani and it was tremendous!! The best we have had so far. That evening we went to Law Gardens, a lovely little garden behind the long line of Textile Market Stalls. Although we're not the keenest shoppers, we could appreciate the amazing colours and beautifully crafted wares.
14th January 2009
A state holiday apparently!! We woke with plans for the day, swiftly to be shot down when we realised EVERYTHING was closed for a Kite Festival - of all things! We spent the day reading in the park, and gently strolling (read; getting lost) around the city, before catching our over-night train at 2300.
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Nikki
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In awe!
Thank you for you detailed tour of India, I am amazed that you have time for all the sightseeing, traveling and writing your blog! Please keep it up as I look forward to reading your next entry! Take care, be safe!