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Published: January 14th 2009
Cusco
Plaza de ArmasWell Hello there!!
Carol here.....after a long long break from Blogging!! Thought it was about time that I checked in with you all. Think Rich apologised about our lack of blogs in the last one but I also wanted to say sorry. The tour keeps quite a fast pace and when we have internet, we basically keep up with emails, facebook etc and not a lot else. We are currently in a place called El Calafate to visit the giant Moreno Glaciar close by and the hostel has free wi-fi......so I will try and get this written while I can.
Sorry to say but I have just sat and spent the last 2-3 hours typing a lovely long blog and account of my Inca Trail experience and the stupid Blog sight just lost it all so I am starting again.....but am afraid it won't be as jam packed as I don't have time....or patience actually to type it all again. So sorry!!
So, I think Rich finished off in Cusco.....or on our way. Cusco was an amazing place and also our base for 9 days while we got ready for, completed and then recovered from the Inca Trail. A trek,
climb and basic endurance that took me to my limits on many occasions.....which is why I thought I would take you through the next few days.
Cusco is a beautiful Inca town which is set at about 3000 metres above sea level and let me tell you, you know about it all the time. The altitude literally wipes you out and makes walking anywhere a bit of a challenge. Hmmm......can't wait for the trail I am thinking......SHIT!! We arrived at the hotel and the other truck that we shadow was also there so we realised we would be in for a jam packed few days of partying.....whoops. To our delight, our friends from The Point hostel are also there so we soon headed off and found them. All good and we soon discovered that the night life in Cusco doesn't really compliment the "prep time" for the Inca Trail. There are a couple of cool clubs and lots of bars which we really enjoyed and embraced fully! Double Whoops!!! We had three days before the train and it was mostly spent out at night and sleeping during the day. Was a great time to catch up with the Point
boys and also get to know the other truck. Breakfast at the Real McCoy, a bar owned by a british guy, was amazing and soon turned into all day sessions of good British influence food and Tequila Sunrises. YUM!!
So....enough of the partying......the reason we are here is the Inca Trail. The Inca's date back about 600 years and were conquered by the Spanish in 1500's (ish....I think) and the last city that was discovered was Macchu Picchu which is set high in the Andes at about 3000 metres above sea level. The trail that leads there takes about 3 days and we were just about to start it......not quite realising what we were taking on. Me especially!! SHIT SHIT!! We were advised to pick up walking sticks, which we did and although theyt were very much appreciated, they did nothing to ease the apprehension of what was to come.
Day 1....
We started on day 1, early doors. We had a long drive to get to the start point, "Kilometre 82" and then got our passports stamped and set off in good spirits. They didn't last....... The first day was supposed to be a good introduction to
Us
Willing and eager before we left..... what was to come but I didn't see it that way. It was horrendous, right from the start and I wasn't enjoying it at all. Rich tried his hardest to keep my spirits up by saying things like "look at the amazing scenery" to which I would reply "it looks like bloody New Zealand where I could have seen the great mountains from the camper" and then tried to remind me that one of the guys from the other truck was doing it in bare foot to which I would snap "bugger him!!". I had realised pretty early on that I didn't care enough about trekking but couldn't turn back and to make matters worse, I kept thinking about the train that takes you to Macchu Picchu, which only takes 4 hours and for the first two hours of the trek, you can hear in the background. How rubbish is that?! Anyway, past the point of no return, I struggled on. Moaning and whining all the way......soon giving me the nickname of "Inca Trail Carol", and much to the amusement of the others....and Rich! After 6 hours of trekking we reached our first camp for the night which was at
Group Photo
before departure about 3400M and much to our releif, camp was already set up. Now I should just say that what Rich was telling me about the scenery was absolutly right and although it was lost on me at the time....I have attached some pictures for you to see the amazing view we woke to on day two. However, as my tent was up.......I went straight to sleep while some of the others (Rich included) played football with the porters.....nutters! Now while I am on the subjest of porters, this was my favourite part of the whole experience and I will tell you a bit about the porters, guides and cooks. They are AMAZING and so humbling it is crazy. They walk/run this trail about 2 to 3 times per month and are so fit it puts athletes to shame. They literally run past you druring the day and make camp in time to set up the kitchen, put up the dining tent, then your tents and then cook. You don't have to lift a finger, which was just as well for me as I wasn't capable!! Most of them are direct descendants of the Inca's and still speak the orginal language
of Ketchua but also speak a little Spanish and English which makes communication a little easier so you can thank them as they pass you on the trail. Like I said......amazing! The food was really good too which I don't think any of us expected. After being woken up with a Coco tea and warm water for washing, breakfast would consist of porrage, cereal, bread/toast and jam and sometimes pancakes. Lovely start to the day. Lunch and Dinner was well balanced with meat, potatoe, salad and veg. All very hearty and so appreciated after the walking/climbing. How they manage to prepare, cook and present such amazing meals at such remote locations will always amazing me. So after the evening meal, I went straight back to bed and slept right through.
Day two......and the hardest day so far!! OUCH!
Again, an early start but this time there was no cosy bus ride......it was hard climbing from start to finish. The tempreture on this day was so variable, changing from hot open mountain side to cold rain forrest and then a cold open high pass. The group, mostly a lot younger a fitter than us, soon went on a head and
we ended up walking with two lovely girls called Belinda and Martina. Rich stayed with us the whole was and patiently coached us along, up and over the pass. The steps were relentless and uneven which made it really hard going......not to mention the altitude which makes breathing a challenge also. You literally can't move a few steps without feeling wiped out so the key is to take slow, small steps...pigeon steps really and take your time. Which we did.......me moaning all the way!! It was so hard.....I can't even find the words to discribe it and lasted forever!! Not only do you feel like you are climbing to heaven....the path is misleading and just when you think you have got to a checkpoint, you see the path stretching off into the distance. I was inconsolable!! The climb to the high pass, 4200M above sea level, was stunning, (of course lost on me) and one of the hardest things I think we have ever done and I would like to say Thank you to Rich for getting me....and Bea and Martina up there. The air was so thin and I honestly think if he hadn't of kept up the encouragement
we would probably still be high in the Andes somewhere, attempting to build a stone house and living with a bunch of Llamas!! They call the pass "Dead Womens Pass" and I think I can totally relate to that. It was a nightmare.....but we did it and then treated ourselves to a defiant 30 minute break after Rich telling us we could have 20 minutes! What a treat! I'd like to say that the climb down was easier and more enjoyable but I found it just as hard.....if not, harder as my feet were in a lot of pain and going down on such uneven steps was really tough work. Unbeknown to us, most of the the rest of the group had already made it to camp and were eagerly awaiting us and although you could see it, and hear them, from about 700M away, it was an impossible descent. About 3/4 of the way down I slipped and although wasn't hurt, the tears started and I couldn't stop them!! It was ridiculous!! No matter how much Rich tried to calm me down and I was laughing at how stupid I was being....they wouldn't stop and it all ended in
a very embarrasing walk into camp, being clapped by everyone.......and through the other trucks camp so they could giggle at me too. Oh well......I'd done it and did feel pretty happy about it. Although more that I could sleep now than the acheivement of it all.
Day 3.....
Compared to day two, day three was a doddle. We woke to amazing views where we were at cloud lever and once again reminded us of our altitude. The scenery was once again amazing and we began in higher spirits than usual. We passed quite a few ruins on the way and because it wasn't so grueling, stayed as a group for most of it which was nice. We also had quite a few stops and I found my feet on the steps pretty easily, compared to the day before. Inca Trail Carol had finally found some enjoyment out of the Inca Trail and I can honestly say, I quite enjoyed this day. The views were great and we were descending again which made things easier on the lungs. And......I knew there were showers and a bar at the end of this day. It was great!! I think this walk took
us about 9 hours and the showers were amaizng! Camp was all set up and we spent the night celebrating as a group with the porters, guides etc and thanked them with a stupid made up song "Oh what a hike" cleverly sung to the popular tune of "Oh what a night"! It was poorly delivered and we were embarrased but they seemed to like it. Then.......the bar and probably a slightly later night than we intended.....whoops!
Day 4....the sun gate and Macchu Picchu.
3.15am and we were woken with the usual Coco tea and warm water.....but we'd only been in bed for about 3 hours so this was pretty painful. After a quick scrub up we queued at the entrance gate for......1.5 hours to enter the national park. Why??? So we were first to the sun gate!! WHAT THE HELL?? Now.....this sounds like a real treat but we soon discovered that there was likely to be cloud and we wouldn't be able to actually see Macchu Picchu from the sodding sun gate so enthusiansm was waning slightly. Actually a lot....as we were tired and the climb (yes, another bloody climb) was hard going for two hours. The sun
Porters
making us feel humble gate was a total anticlimax and we started heading down to Macchu Picchu for the tour around the ruins and a well earned Bacon and Egg roll.....for $7 but well worth it. We got down to the ruins before the mist had lifted and to say I was slight deflated would be an understatment!! I couldn't beleive we had hiked/trekked and climbed for nearly 4 days for this!! But....not before too long.....the mist started to clear and we saw for the first time what all the fuss was about! It was incredible!! I couldn't beleive how high up it is and how far we had come to see this beautiful ruin! WOW WOW WOW!!! We had a short tour round the ruins and important buildings and then were left to our own devices for the rest of the day. We spent hours just sitting and taking in the amazing views! We had an option to climb the neighbouring mountain as well but passed as I wasn't feeling too well.....and who are we kidding, we couldn't be arsed either! Only time I have thanked a tummy upset as gave us a great excuse not to go!! Macchu Picchu was incredible!!! A
true wonder of the world and I finally got what the fuss was about!!
About 2pm we headed down the mountain to the local town and treated ourselves to a few drinks in preperation to what is famously known in Cusco as the 24 hour challenge! Yep, you've guessed it......time to celebrate on the train/bus home and quick change and out until 3.15am!! It seems so far away but I managed it without much problem as Cusco is so much fun. Unfortunatly, Rich fell short by about 20 minutes but he was still one of the last standing! What a crazy few days!!!!! Amazing, painful, funny, beautiful, tiring.....so many mixed emotions but in the whole I feel pretty positive about the experience now. Saying that......nearly 5 weeks has passed so maybe I have just blocked out most of the bad stuff ha ha ha.....
The rest of our time in Cusco was spent celebrating, eating, enjoying everything Peru has to offer really. It is such a great town and we loved it before the trail but after, I appreciated it even more. The restaurants and bars are great and although a little touristy, it finds a great balance between
Llamas
passing us by tradition and comfort! We recouped for the following couple of days and when it came time to leave, I think we were both pretty gutted. Cusco remains one of our favourite places we have visited in the past year and we can see outselves going back one day.
I'm going to leave it there as need to get changed and out for some food. Thanks for reading my experience and sorry it's a slightly shorter version than intended.....thank god you're all probably thinking lol.
Anyway, miss you all loads and you probably know by now......we will be home in March so see you soon....ish!
Love loads
Carol and Rich xxxxx
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dinosontour
Kev and Wendy
Hi, Hola, Bula, Kia Ora, etc etc etc
Cusco is a great place, did you use the English bars for the English beers? Glad to see your getting some exercise, lovely walk. NZ is really nice, thanks for the stuff on your blogs. Kev and Wendy.