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Published: November 25th 2008
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We've spent the last few days in Kerala, one of the most beautiful states in India. We started in Cochin, an old port city with many islands, connected by ferries that run every 10 minutes and cost only 2 rupees (4 cents). It's a large fishing community and the shoreline is embellished by huge fishnets that look like large prehistoric spiders with nets that are lowered into the water. However beautiful, the fishnets are labor intensive (it takes 4 men to lower and raise one) and are slowly being replaced by modern technology.
There are a few old European buildings; among them, the oldest church and oldest synagogue in India, both dating to the early 1500s. Once home to a large Jewish community, only a dozen or so mostly elderly ones remain, living in an area still called "Jew Town". One of the few remaining Jewish women was kind enough to invite us into her home and gave us Shabbat candles for our travels. Her children immigrated to Israel, then Canada, yet she remains alone in Cochin. We also saw a traditional Keralan Kathakali performance; with just a few (male) actors, wearing colorful makeup (which we got to see them apply)
and elaborate costumes. Kathakali is somewhat similar to Japanese kabuki theater. The actors don't speak, but instead use incredible facial movements and body language, accompanied by singing and music to tell a story. Most performances these days are only a scene from a longer (6-9 hours) play. It was an enjoyable performance, culminating in a dramatic murder scene.
www.kathakalicentre.com
We then headed a bit south into the backwaters for an overnight houseboat tour. Our bamboo boat was a comfortable floating home, with 2 boat men and one-man kitchen staff. The boatmen (one at the front and one at the back) push the boat down the canals and rivers with long, thick bamboo canes. It was very tranquil and relaxing to sit and read our books while gliding past coconut trees, sleepy villages, rice paddies, fish farms, and the occasional lone fisherman on a canoe. There were a few children on river banks shouting "Hello! How are you? What is your name? I love you!". It was all very sweet. We spent the second night at the guest house that ran the houseboat, and crossed paths with a British woman about our age, named Sarah, who has been traveling India
alone. She went on the houseboat after we left it.
We met up with Sarah again at the train station on our way to Varkala beach; we got to talking, and had such a nice visit on the the train ride, that we decided to look for accomodations together. We got lucky and found a great complex with bamboo huts and ayurvedic (traditional holistic Indian) center; where we each had amazing 90 minute massages with oils and aromatherapy. Our huts were only steps away from the main boardwalk of Varkala, which runs along the cliffs above the beach, populated by restaurants, shops, and cafes. In the evening, the catch of the day, up to 10 different kinds of fish, as well as other seafood, is displayed on tables in front of each restaurant to lure you in. You pick the fish you want, they cut and weigh it, and cook it to your specifications. I (Erin) loved eating prawns for almost every meal, and further south in Kovalam, had the biggest and most delicious prawns ever. Not to mention the great swimming during the day! The water is warm and very clear, the waves are just right. I wasn't
even deterred after being stung by purple jellyfish (large and small ones, that came and went throughout the day)! We loved Varkala's beauty and ease and were a little sad to leave.
We then made our way down to Kanyakumari, Cape Comorin in English, the southernmost point in India where the Bay of Bengal, the Indian Ocean and Arabian Sea all meet, and is holy to Hindus. We took a little boat to a temple, just off the tip, that honors a Swami purported to have sailed to America on a coconut leaf, and is next to a giant stone statue in honor of a famous Indian author on another rock (which was shoulder deep in ocean during the tsunami). There is also a Gandhi memorial on the waterside that was the place Gandhi's ashes rested before they were scattered into the waters below. There is a hole in the ceiling of the memorial, placed just right, so that every year on his birthday, the sun shines on a shrine. The tsunami a few years ago hit this area hard, but luckily, the building was only slightly damaged. We went into a very large and impressive Hindu temple. Unfortunately,
we couldn't take any pictures inside, but it was very old, with stone carvings, many devotees. We got to light candles and perform our own puja (offering ceremony), and gave flowers to a giant Hanuman (monkey god) statue. We also visited an amazing wooden palace, the largest in India, that had once been home to the raj of the state. Being surrounded by beautiful teak buildings made us feel like we were in Thailand; which is appropriate since we arrive in Thailand in a few days.
We've been in India a month now, and have seen both its sadness and its beauty. We have had many great experiences, and no real bad ones. We love this country and could have spent a lot more time here. We are sad to leave now, but we know we will come back.
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Tasha
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Safee! You look so tan in this picture! I'm also surprised that you didn't take over this boating business ! you must be VERY relaxed! Hi Erin!!