Bus Ride to Ranamafano


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Africa » Madagascar
November 20th 2008
Published: November 20th 2008
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We got a little later start the next morning after our bike ride to Betafo, at the time it seemed worth it with a relaxing morning and breakfast served in the room. We got to the bus station (a row of huts where malagasy drivers try and sway you to ride in their lovely van) around noon. After a bit of bargaining we bought a bus ticket to Ranamafano- they threw our bags on top and we were set to leave around 2. Not so bad we thought- there were alreadly people waiting in the van so it looked promising. We wandered around for awhile, played cards, and made friends with old men and small children- all of this in the heat of the African day with no shade. About SIX HOURS LATER our driver quitely climbed in the seat and we were off. We knew it was going to be a long bus ride, and our bags were already secure on top, so we settled ourselves into the front seats (happily with seatbelts) and accepted whatever lay ahead. Once again the van was stuffed with about 20 people and we had a stereo blasting with malagasy dance music (nice at first, but after a few hours and many repeats it was a bit annoying) What we passed in the day was beautiful- small villages and rice fields. As we mentioned before the driving can be a bit disconcerning, swerving to miss pot holes, small kids, and pousse pousse drivers. But sometimes just bombing straight ahead, in one place we ran right over a chicken, it didnt seem to phase anyone else in the car- I guess it just meant dinner - (hhmmm still really considering becoming a vegetarian while in madagascar.) We had a couple of more stops along the way- a bathroom break alongside the road where you try and find the nearest bush or rock to drop trou or just go anywhere if you are a guy. Lesson learned- always wear a skirt when travelling via taxi-brousse. Our next stop was a dinner stop, although only a few people got out of the van (some people had not left the van since the morning!) we walked into the restaurant and stared blankely at the menu. Then the universal game of charades began as we found out what was food or drink and what the different meat dishes were (we knew the malagasy name for pig due to our earlier taxi ride with the pig *Kisoa) Finally we got ourselves a nice big plate of plain rice- they dont have soy sauce or anything, but there was some interesting red sauce on the table. Colin tried it and said it wasnt bad- so I put a small spoonfull on mine - the next thing I knew my taste buds were quickly being consumed by fire and I began to sweat (Im not too good with hot stuff😊 To wash it down I tried the pitcher of warm beige drink on the table. The drink was rice water (Im pretty sure) and I had heard about it before. It is luke warm and tastes like the burnt rice at the bottom of the pan-yum. But, because it is boiled with the rice it is safe to drink.
Soon we were back in the van, by this time it was completely dark and the weather was beginning to turn. It was a bit hard to sleep for a slight fear of life on this crazy road and the uncomfortable seats. We passed the last town I had known was on the map around 10:30 pm- the fog began to roll in and it was becoming clear that we were now in the rainforests of Madagascar. I was a bit on edge, hoping our silent driver knew where we needed to go. On top of all of this the smell in the van went from bad to worse as one of the kids in the back started to throw-up (no need to stop though, Im sure it will be a joy to clean out later) We just rolled down the window and stuck our heads out into the dense fog and the sounds of the forest.
Around 11:30 pm we passed the Ranomafano sign and we both sighed with relief as we cruised into the village. Midnight our van finally stopped, and we were still wondering where we were going to sleep that night- I was ready to find a bed and Colin was ready to venture aimlessly in the jungle to camp😊 Thankfully up the road there was a man outside a dark hotel who we asked for a room- he let us in and we ended up staying in a nice bungalo beside the river. A nice shower was the cherry on top and we both slept good with dreams of lemurs the next day...

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22nd November 2008

Wow!
So good hearing from you Ari and Collin! I'll never take another taxi or bus ride for granted again. I love the descriptions, making arrangements for the ride and the long journey through day and night and finally to the rainforest blessings and joy be yours every waking and sleeping moment love Pod
23rd November 2008

Very proud, be safe Colin and let her have any hotel or safe relaxing place Ari wantsl Jungle is jungle. Love xx Mom, knows best. Did I say that, yeah.
24th November 2008

Your stories are definately bringing back memories for me and i'm so jealous!! Just remember to accept the fact that nothing in Africa is efficient or easy, but so rewarding nonetheless! Take care and have the time of your lives you two!!

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