Pulau Tioman, Malaysia

---

While we were in Malaysia we took a little detour along the east coast and ended up in paradise!

From Mersing we took the ferry out to Pulau Tioman. For all you movie buffs out there, this is the island setting for the movie "South Pacific". Because it was a holiday weekend I broke my "take it as it comes" rule and we rang ahead and booked accommodation before we went. We had to really as everybody was telling us that we would not have a hope in hell of getting anyplace to stay once we got out there. So we booked a place along one of the beaches on the west coast and arranged for the boat to drop us off at the nearby jetty. Little over an hour later we were standing on the jetty, bags at our feet and a look of disgust on our faces! For the entire journey around the islands up to that point each beach and secluded bay that we had passed had been picture postcard beautiful....until our stop which had more rock on the beach than sand. It was anything but picture postcard. Glances were passed between Mojca and myself and in an instant we were back on the boat. We may not have been able to find accommodation elsewhere on the island but we were at least going to give it our best shot. The boat had one final stop and so it was in Salang, on the northern part of the island that we found ourselves for the first two nights. And as it turned out, we found a place to stay without a problem. Salang was really pretty but compared to what we were expecting it was quite "touristy" and not the unspoiled tropical island that we were hoping for. But as I say, it was none-the-less extremely beautiful and a place that you could easily relax and unwind in for many a happy day. But relaxing is something that I find hard to do so on the second morning we set off in search of one of the secluded bays that we had passed on our way to the island. Monkey beach was the name of the spot we were in search of and after a torturous hike over the peninsula through ridiculously hot and humid jungle we eventually stumbled down rocks and onto the isolated beach. Again, the tide was out and so there were a lot of rocks on the beach but the place itself was fantastic. Mainly because of its isolation. As I sat on the beach, looking out into the South China sea, I could not help but feel that I was a long long way from home! So what better to kill the home sick blues than... a splash in the ocean! And so that is exactly what we did. We put our bags on a rock and ventured out into the water.

But no sooner have we dipped our heads in the water when we found out why this place was called "Monkey Beach"! As I sat in the water, about 50 meters from our bags my eye was caught by a macaque monkey making his way down from the jungle trees and over to our bags. Now, I had experience of these monkeys in Thailand already so I knew that time was of the essence. These monkeys are cheeky as could be and given the chance they would have disappeared off into the forest with all our belongings. So in an instant I was up and running like there was no tomorrow. Poor Mojca thought I had gone a little mad until I started shouting at the monkey and she realised what was happening. Well if I did not kill myself jumping over the water and avoiding the rocks trying to get our bags. And when I did the monkey had already thrown Mojca's bag open and riffled through her belongings. Luckily enough there was nothing missing....except the monkey. He had make a fast escape when he saw the 'great white' thundering in from the sea! He must still be having nightmares at the sight!! Aside from that, Monkey beach was fantastic....well apart from that and the trek home! My God, but the humidity was unbearable...and with empty stomachs and very little water the trek back over the headland to Salang almost killed us!

That evening, not satisfied that Salang was what we were after, we decided that the following morning we would make our way to the lesser travelled east side of the island and to the only settlement on that side, Juara. A far less touristy place and home to most of the native population according to the guide books. And well with only an expensive 4x4 ride over the steep interior of the island to get to it or an equally expensive boat journey around the northern tip, it was no surprise really that it was quieter. But we had made our minds up and given the fact that we may never be back there again we said that we would give it our best shot and try and get over. But as everything still seemed to be closed for the holiday it took us a little while to get somebody to bring us. It was only the following morning when we were sitting on the jetty , all hope lost that we would get across, when Mojca chanced her luck and asked a local would he take us around on his boat. I had thought her attempt would be in vain but it was not and within half and hour he had his phone calls made and we were on a boat heading east! And wow, but the scenery on the trip round was breath taking. So also was the McGyver attempts of a Chinese guy on the boat who nearly killed us all! As we were in open water, the driver left the wheel for a minute to do something with the engine. The boat was going straight and smooth and heading for open water. the next thing, this guy, for some unknown reason, jumps up and swerves the wheel and sends the boat straight for the cliffs. The driver was almost thrown overboard with the sudden swerve but luckily managed to hold on and get to the front to take control of the boat again. Nobody sad anything. Nobody could! Everybody was literally speechless. Well nobody said anything for about 10 minutes when one woman got her speech back and went up to the guy and.... well I don't know what but whatever she said, it soon wiped the smile of the young Chinese guys face and he did not utter another word for the entire journey! Even now, I still cannot fully believe what happened.

When we reached Juara we were the only people getting off the boat to what was...no, what is, the most beautiful setting I think I have ever seen. Its was this deserted sweeping beach of white sand dotted here and there with little wooden huts. And before long, one of them was going to be ours! Oh yes, we were to play Popeye and Olive for the next few days. And in complete tranquility and spectacular surroundings as well. And better still but we were to share it with only a handful of other people.

And ladies and gentlemen but I have something to announce. And a big thank you has to go out to Mojca, for without her this would never have happened. Let me explain, it was approaching my 30th birthday and there were a few things that I still had not ticked off the list! You know, the list everyone has of what they want to do before they reach 30. And well in the deserted bay of Juara on Pulau Tioman another tick was placed on my list! Oh yes... I learned to swim! Well maybe that is a bit of an exaggeration because the most feeble of dogs would have swam with more dignity than I did. But never the less, I did not drown.... but I didn't get too far as it turns out either! But thanks to the patience of Mojca, I finally stayed afloat and managed to get from A to B without my lungs needing pumping! And over the space of a few days she even said that I improved...however slightly! But then again, I think Mojca needs to thank me also....because I have not seen an individual laugh as much in their life! And I can't blame her really, i looked ridiculous!

The days at Juara just flew by and before we new it, it was time to say goodbye and goodbye to Pulau Tioman and head back to the mainland for yet another destination. Our final trip took us on the back of a 4x4 over the spine of the island to catch the early morning ferry. For 6am in the morning it was a mighty awakening and the views out over the island as we rose higher into hills and out of the jungle were fantastic!

I have to say that Juara was and still is one of the nicest places I have been so far on this trip. While places like The Great Wall of China are non-forgettable for their amazing achievement. For the fact that they are man-made and survive to this day. Khong Lo cave system in Laos was breathtaking for its natural wonder and sense of bewilderment as to how nature could have constructed such a place. And also for how it has to this day, gone relatively unnoticed by the outside world. Juara, just a quiet village in a shaded cove of a Malayian island will be forever with me for its sense of peace, for its sense of tranquility and for its unbridled beauty!

---

Photos

Juara Beach!
The view from my front door...I want to go back!

Juara Beach
And thats my front door under the middle coconut tree!

Enroute to Monkey Beach
Now where did I leave that civilisation again?

Pirates of the South China Sea
I've decided on a new career! More money in it!

Salang Bay
And no need to worry....I have since found my razor again!

Comments

[Theresa]

Wow! Well, there is nothing more to say but WOW!