Trains, Eunuchs & Cricket

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It was the smell that hit me first when I got off the plane in Mumbai. I had had vague memories of scenes, incidents that had happened on my first trip here 11 years ago but I had forgotten the smell and suddenly it all came back. Walking the streets of Bombay you are constantly smelling something... a constant stream of insence, sewage, spices, smoke, gas, rotting waste...unlike anywhere I have ever been.

Everything has been so surreal what with booking my ticket less than 2 weeks ago and not having any logical reason to go to India other than following my heart on a whim that I got off the plane thinking Oh God, what am I doing here? Fuck. Please let Adam be waiting for me.

And there to my enormous relief was Adam with his tanned and freckled face, waving his tigger bag...2 days later and I have taken a 24 hour train to Bangalore and just witnessed my first cricket match.

Indian trains... we took a local train on our way back from Leopolds (O.K, so I read Shantaram just as everyone else in this country - apparently the 'Harry Potter' of India, and felt the need to at least check the place out once). When I got on to the plane in London and started getting agitated at the difference in personal space between the British and the Indian I realised I would have to adjust pretty fucking quickly... it makes me laugh.... two of my pet hats: lack of personal space and crowds...and I decide to come to India. Ha. So we are on this local train and the way it works is this: If you want to get off the train, you must jump out, whilst the train is still moving, hoping for the best and that you will not maim yourself in the process. You do this because the split second the train is still a stream of Indians on their way home after work leap with full force into the carriage, cramming themselves in until the carriage is so full that some are standing on the edge of the door (there are no closing doors), grasping on for dear life and some just say sod it and climb on to the roof. It makes me wince.

That same day our 24 hour train journey to Bangalore begins. The journey involves chatting to a group of 90 HSBC employees who have taken a group trip to Bombay for a festival, watching eunuchs who approach each person, clap their hands loudly and then demand money (I wish I knew what this is all about. I WILL find out. Watch this space.), smoking sneaky cigarettes (Gold Flake) in the toilet because as of recently there is no smoking in India in any public place. Not even in the outdoor section of cafes), many cups of chai and various snacks from the wallahs who stroll up and down the aisles all day long, advertising their wares. I was so exhausted I slept all the time on my little steel bunk with the blanket I stole from British Airways.

I did try and become interested in cricket. Adam sat there and patiently explained the rules to me whilst every few moments we had to get up and yell, participating in a Mexican Wave. But there are a few things which make my enjoyment of cricket somewhat difficult. These are a) I dislike crowds, b) I dislike loud noises, c) I dislike competitive sports and d) I do not like following the crowd and because I'm not really sure at any time what the hell is going on, when people clap, I clap, when people boo, I boo and so it really is not my cup of tea. Speaking of tea, my favourite thing about cricket is that they have special breaks for 'tea'. And I also like the fact that every one applauds the opposing team for playing well which is rather lovely and civilised.

If I don't eat something I shall fade away so more another time...

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Comments

[Thomas]

smells and such
Hi Ruby, good to be hearing from you. I believe in medieval times London was quite alike big asian cities with their smells and stenches etc. :) And I fell with you regarding the crowds. It's not as much as I don't like them but that they make me feel uneasy and alerted all the time. Oh, and the evolving group dynamics, I don't like those, either - the lack of individualism... :) I do like competitive games, though, especially when partaking in them. Anyhow. Thanks for sharing your adventures. Find out about the eunuchs (how do you figure they were eunuchs, btw?) And please give a warm hug to Adam from me! Be well and whole! xox Thomas