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Published: September 12th 2008
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We've been on our hols round a few of the Balkan countries for almost a week now although it feels like much longer. We started by flying into Split where we got a bus to the centre from airport and met the girl whose apartment we were staying in, which was really nice, a tiny little thing which we had to ourselves with kitchen and everything you'd need for much longer than the one night we were staying. We took in the small town with it's nice waterfront, old Roman palace and random 'beach' (more like a bit of concrete with horrible pebbly bit) but it was hot all the same so it was really nice. After we had done that we inevitably ended up in several bars and stayed there for the day. We ate in a restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet and our host, which turned out to be really random, greasy and they tried to overcharge us too but we were drunk so it didn't really matter.
The following day we got up earlyish to got a ferry to Korcula, an island down the coast which was nice although there wasn't much to do apart from lie
on the again random 'beach' and drink beer. A nice night but we left the next day for Dubrovnik, not on the ferry as intended but by bus, an ordeal in the end as it was very hot, but we fared better than those who had to stand the whole journey.
Dubronik is as stunning as I (Tom) remember a few years ago but much busier. We found somewhere to stay right in the middle of the old town at the apartment of some women we met the bus stop, which was nice but with the loudest AC ever in the room, which was necessary though as it was so hot. We toured the old town walls which gives you great views of the city and walked round the dozens of tacky tourist shops all selling the same thing. There was the European Open Water Swimming champs going on so we sat down by the water and watched that and read our books which was well nice.
We left Dubronik for Mostar in Bosnia by bus, passing through three border controls as we did as the road weaves its way over the newish border a couple of times.
Obviously the road was there before the border. One minute we were in Bosnia, the next we were back in Croatia. Anyway we arrived in Mostar mid morning and again found a room in an apartment in a manky looking concrete tower block but it had a nice balcony, although it was pretty rough round the edges. Mostar is really nice, but small as well and the only thing of note is the river crossed by the rebuilt famous bridge which was destroyed during the war, not for any military purpose but just because of it's significance to the Bosnians. We didn't see anyone dive unfortunately but spent few nice hours drinking beer by the river in the hot sun.
We been in Sarajevo for a night already which is really nice. We got here by train on an amazing journey through the mountains and along the river. Sarajevo is sprawling but the old town is nice where we've got a good hotel (where I think has just opened and we're the only guests! but we got it really cheap) and we've seen the few sights, like where Archduke Ferdinand was shot and of course been to the local
brewery.
All in all it's been great so far, really interesting and we've had loads of different beers, with lots more to sample. Word of warning though, don't have Bosnian coffee which is supposed to be a speciality but none of the locals seem to drink it, probably cos it tastes of mud!
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Alison Gilmour
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Green Eyed for Mostar
You are making me very very jealous! Lovely photos. I feel your pain with the Korcula-Dubrovnik bus journey...I had the seat at the back right of the bus in behind the luggage rack. Roasted and fearing for my life as we weaved round the cliffs and the bus overtook cars! Enjoy the rest of your trip xxx