Following in Darwin's Footsteps - The Galapagos Islands

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Day 43: Monday 11th August - Flying out to the Galapagos Islands

It finally arrives....I've been looking forward to the Galapagos Islands for a few weeks. My flight is delayed by an hour and after a flight of 1 hour 40mins we arrive in the Galapagos Islands. The Galapagos archipelago lies 1000km off the coast of Ecuador in the Pacific Ocean and is home to some unique wildlife who react quite differently to humans than normal. After paying the $100! national park fee its straight on to a bus and then a shot boat ride to join the Merak, my boat for the next week. The Merak is cozy, just 4 double bunk rooms, but the group I'm on with seem cool. I'm joined by Jan in my room, who after bringing up two children on her own has discovered her wanderlust and decided to travel the world....great story. There are also an Italian couple, a couple from the UK, and a couple from Germany. The crew numbers 4, a guide, the captain, a cook, and a guy who sails the dinghy.

After dumping our gear on the boat, its straight into the trip. We sail a very short while from Baltra, the island where the airport is on, to Santa Cruz where we visit Bachus Beach on the Northern tip to do snorkelling. I'm not a great fan of snorkelling, every previous time I've done it I've ended up swallowing more sea water than anything else. The mask I have leaks, and despite seeing many amazing tropical fish in the waters, my opinion of snorkelling doesn't improve. The highlight is when a flock of birds pass just a few feet overhead, and is my first experience of how the wildlife are just so unafraid of human contact. After an hour or so snorkelling we head back to the boat, and spend the evening off the north coast of Santa Cruz. Its an early night, must be in bed by 10pm, which becomes a trend throughout the week....sailing and snorkelling really tires you out.

Day 44: Tuesday 12th August - Sealiontastic

Sail at 5.30am to Mosquera Island. It takes only an hour or so and we arrive for breakfast. Mosquera Island is a tiny island which is basically a beach measuring maybe half a mile by 200 metres. The island is home to a sizeable sealion population and also the brightly coloured sallylightfoot crabs. The sealions seem to spend most of the time out of the water being lazy, sunbathing and sleeping....what a life. The exception is the male, who with 25-30 females spends a lot of time in the water grunting and generally making a lot of noise guarding his territory. We walk around the island which is beautiful observing the sealions from a couple of metres, and frequently the more curious and more active sealions waddle over to within a few feet. The sealions are certainly entertainers. We head back to the boat after an hour or so on the island, and set sail for Santa Fe which is four and a half hours south east of Mosquera. After lunch we snorkel in a bay just off Santa Fe. Again I have a rubbish mask which leaks, but this time in addition to swimming alongside tropical fish, a few sealions swim alongside in the water and the highlight is swimming with a turtle which must measure around 3 feet for a few minutes. I'm warming to snorkelling but I need some decent equipment!

After snorkelling we land on Santa Fe and we follow a trail for 1 kilometre on the island. The restrictions on where you can walk are severe and designed to protect the wildlife, so on most islands you can only land at a few points and when on the island you follow pre marked trails. On the walk we see land iguanas, some interesting cacti, and of course the ubiquitous sealions which are as active as they were on Mosquera, lazing around in the late afternoon sun. The weather today has been glorious sunshine, a trend which continues for the entire week apart from the day in Puerto Ayora. We are lucky in this sense because the Galapagos can be notoriously cloudy. At 6.30pm we set sail for the 6 hour journey to Espanola which is the most South Easterly island in the archipelago. Unfortunately despite taking a tablet I get seasick!

Day 45: Wednesday 13th August - I love Boobies!

We land on a beach on Espanola in the morning and spend a few hours snorkelling along the beach. I manage to find a much better mask and this increases my enjoyment of snorkelling. I'm starting to really get into it, and again see sealions swimming in the water as well as hundreds of tropical fish of all different species. After an early lunch we sail to another location on Espanola. 90% of the species unique to the Galapagos reside on Espanola so this island should be a highlight. Unfortunately we land in the middle of the day so most of the wildlife is hiding from the intense sun. Nevertheless during a 2 hour walk we see marine iguanas, sealions, albatrosses, galapagos seagulls, lava lizards but my favourite on this island has to be the boobies. We see 2 species, the blue footed boobies (with blue feet!!), and the nazca boobies (the biggest species withlight brown feet). Two of the blue footed boobies oblige with a dance of sorts, which is unusual as this is normally reserved for mating season which is earlier in the year, in our springtime. Now is the baby season, but we don't manage to see any chicks. In mid afternoon we set sail for Floreana, to the west of Espanola and after a 5 hour sail, arrive at 8pm. This time the seasickness tablet works, any enjoy a pleasant sail soaking up the suns rays up on deck.

Day 46: Thursday 14th August - The Galapagos Post

We have an early start this morning landing on Floreana at 6.45am, before breakfast. First up we visit Post Office Bay to see the unique postal system in the Galapagos. The 'postoffice' is a shack.....actually thats being kind. It works by travellers leaving postcards, without stamps in the hope that a fellow traveller will pick up a card for their country and either hand deliver it or post it when they get back home. I unfortunately don't have any postcards on me to test the system, but look through a selection of cards some of which are over 2 years old. I don't take any postcards to deliver as I'm not heading back to the UK for sometime. After the intriguing post office bay we take a short walk to a lava cave which is a big disappointment. We then head back to the boat and sail 20 minutes to another beach on Floreana. At this location we see a flamingo lagoon, which in the early morning sunshine looks spectacular. A short walk further and we end up on a deserted beach where we're fortunate to see stingrays in the shallow water. After chilling out on the beach for half an hour or so we head back to the boat to change for snorkelling. As we board the dinghy we see 3 white tipped sharks in the water below us. Snorkelling around a rock known as the Devil's Crown just off Floreana I see another white tipped shark (they are around 5-6 feet long and aren't dangerous to humans), as well as numerous tropical fish. The locatation is probably the best snorkelling to date, and the variety of fish is unmatched. After lunch we sail 4 hours Northward to Santa Cruz, arriving in Puerto Ayora in mid afternoon.

Puerto Ayora is the main town in the Galapagos, however is just a small town of 15,000 people. Only 3 of the other islands are inhabited (Isobela, San Cristobal & Floreana), and the total population of the Galapagos is only just over 20,000 which undoubtedly helps to preserve the amazing wildlife. In Puerto Ayora we have 3 hours spare time, which drags as there is nothing much to do in the town. End up watching a few games of volleyball, which after football is Ecuador's main sport. Have a bit of a wander (in the first rain of the trip) and then back to the boat in the early evening.

Day 47: Friday 15th August - Meeting Lonesome George

In the morning we have a rushed guided visit to the Charles Darwin Centre which is on the edge of Puerto Ayora. The Charels Darwin Centre is home to a tortoise breeding programme, so we see lots of small tortoises first. The tortoises are released back into the wild at 5 years when they are old enough to survive the various predators. Walking further around the centre we meet numerous species of Giant Tortoises, the most famous of which is Lonesome George. Lonesome George is a Giant Tortoise from the Pinta island in the North of the archipelago, and is the last surviving member of his species. He's middle aged for a tortoise (around 80 years old) and they are trying to get him to breed with a couple of females from different species on the Galapagos. The breeding programme has had some success and there are currently 3 eggs which will hatch in several months, so there may be hope for the Pinta species after all. The walk around the centre is rushed as everyone bar my myself and my room mate Jan has finished there cruise and are departing for the airport. Jan and myself have the rest of the morning to kill before we will meet up with the 6 new shipmates in the early afternoon. We decide to walk back around the centre at a more leisurely pace, and this time in the absence of any guides we manage to stroke a rather friendly Giant Tortoise, which is a special experience.

After lunch we meet the new group which consists of 2 Americans (A retired guy and his son), 2 Israeli brothers and a Dutch couple. The new group seem equally as good as the first. We climb aboard 2 pick-up trucks, and despite the rain I insist on riding in the back, and head to the lush green highlands of Santa Cruz. The highlands represent another different landscape in the Galapagos. The islands vary from arid landscapes, to volcanic landscapes (the islands were all formed as a result of volcanic activity at some part in their lifetime), to beautiful beaches.......no 2 islands are the same. In the highlands, we see some more giant tortoises, this time in their natural habitat, before we visit a lava tunnel. The lava tunnel proves to
be a bit of a waste of time. We drive back to Puerto Ayora and in the early evening get back aboard the Merak. Its good to be back on the boat and at midnight we set sail for Rabida which takes 6 hours. Rabida is to the north of Santa Cruz.

Day 48: Saturday 16th August - Minature Penguins and a Chinese Hat

In the morning after breakfast we land on Rabida which has a distinctive red beach. We walk a short trail on the island where we see marine iguanas, lava lizards and cacti. The highlight has to be seeing brown pelicans, and we are fortunate to see a number of newly born chicks. We snorkel in the bay in two separate locations off Rabida and agin see hundreds of fish as well as a few sealions swimming in the water. We set sail for Sombrero Chino (Chinese Hat in English) which is so named as it is shaped like a Chinese Hat. It takes us one and a half hours to get to Sombrero Chino, and upon arrival we snorkel in the bay. The snorkelling here is really good - in addition to the many fish, I see 2 white tipped sharks, one of which is lying on the ocean floor, the other I must swim above for a couple of minutes......amazing! Also see a lobster close to the rocks, careful not to get too close though!

When we land on Sombrero Chino I see more sealions and marine iguanas. Its just a small island though so the walk on the island is not far. After an hour or so on Sombrero Chino we sail to Bartolome which is an hour away. The plan is just to anchor in the bay off Bartolome this evening but our guide Franklin pulls a blinder and decides that in the fading light now will be the best time to see the Galapagos Penguins as tomorrow it will be swarming with people from other boats. In the dinghy, we manage to see about 5 penguins around Pinnacle Rock, some really close up....they're really cute and I believe they are the smallest species of penguins.....they must only be a foot tall and its certainly unusual to see penguins so close to the equtator. (The islands lie on the equator).

Day 49: Sunday 17th August - Lava fields and swimming with a penguin

In the morning we have a dry landing on Sullivan Bay which is on Santiago. Sullivan Bay is the location of a lava field which was the result of a volcano erupting 250 years ago. The rock formations are really interesting and we see some lava cactus which only grow on the Galapagos and only in lava fields. Although Santiago has no active volcano's, several volcano's on Isabela (the largest island) and Fernandina in the west of the archipelago have erupted in the past few years. After walking on the lava field for an hour or so we go back to the boat in preparation for a wet landing to Bartolome where we are going to spend the remainder of the morning on the beach and snorkelling. This will be the last opportunity to snorkel, and after resolving the issues with my mask I've really enjoyed it. Indeed, snorkelling is half the experience of the Galapagos Islands. Snorkelling around pinnacle rock I see as many fish as I can remember. At times I can't see the water for the fish!! The highlight though is swimming with a Galapagos Penguin for about a minute. Usually they are too fast in the water to catch up with, but this one is just coasting along next to the rocks allowing me to keep pace at all of two feet away......absolutely amazing!! Also, see sealions clambering onto the rocks from the water before chilling out on the beach for an hour.

After lunch on the boat we land on Bartolome again, where we climb the 150 metres to the top of the island. From the top we can see spectacular views across the bay and can see other islands in the distance. We board the Merak again and set sail south towards North Seymour, which tomorrow morning will be the last island we visit. After dinner we are presented with a cake and also have wine with the meal as a goodbye gesture from the crew. We then cheekily wash that down with the Captain's special bottle of rum!

Day 50: Monday 18th August - Farewell to the Galapagos

Today is the final day of our week long cruise. Prior to breakfast we land on North Seymour. North Seymour must have the best population of birds of the islands we've visited. We see frigate birds - the males puff out their big red chests, resembling a balloon, and also blue footed boobies. This time we see some blue footed booby chicks, which look very different from the mature birds.

After breakfast we sail the short distance back to Baltra to get the flight back to Ecuador. On disembarking on Baltra we get a Galapagos farewell.......some sealions are sleeping on two benches.......only in Galapagos!! By the time we get to Baltra airport it must only be an hour before my flight, thankfully the airport is tiny and handles only a few flights back to the mainland a day. I arrive on time in Guayaquil at 1.30pm. When I arrive at the bus terminal, a short taxi ride away I discover I can't get a bus to Loja until 5pm. I'm heading to Vilcabamba in Southern Ecuador for a few days to chill out.....I can't face an epic bus journey to Peru in one go so I'm going to break the journey. Kill a few hours in Guayaquil bus terminal in an internet cafe where I bump into Gavin & Claire the couple from the UK I met a few days previous in the Galapagos........its a small world!

The bus from Guayaquil to Loja takes 9 hours, and I arrive in Loja at 2am. There doesn't seem much point getting a hostel for the night, especially with the first bus to Vilcabamba being at 5.30am. So, I decide to sleep for a few hours in the bus station in Loja. Not the best nights sleep I've had, maybe not the best idea I've ever had, but all is alright. There's some sort of festival on in Loja in the coming days so the bus station is busy at least, even in the middle of the night. Its certainly a come down from the Galapagos however!


The Galapagos Islands have been the highlight of my trip to date. The wildlife that inhabits the islands would not be near the top of my list if I was visiting a zoo for the day but the way they interact with humans is unique. They are so unafraid that you are seeing them at close quarters. I can't imagine any wildlife experience surpassing the Galapagos with maybe the possible exception of a safari to Africa. Yes it is expensive, after flights, paying for the boat, tips and the park entrance fee I don't have much change from $2000US for a week....but in my view that represents very good value. Indeed, I think my cruise was one of the cheapest - some of the larger boats (and more luxurious) can cost up to $5000US!! The Merak was a good boat, and because of its size had a family feel. I was lucky to share the expereince with some nice people which enhanced the experience. The crew couldn't do enough for you and our guide Franklin whilst a bit patchy in places with his detail and explanations was always in good humour (who can forget his sayings.......no sand please, slide back, slide back, and of course only in galapagos!!) .Unfortunately as I didn't possess an underwater camera my pictures tell only half the story, and certainly the snorkelling is half the Galapagos experience. Swimming with penguins, sealions, tortoises, sharks and thousands of beautiful fish has to be the highlight. I can't honestly say any island was better than another, combined they make up the Galapagos experience. I've also been lucky to see all the main wildlife with the exception of the red-footed boobies and the dolphins. You can't possibly see it all in a week as some creatures only habit one island and there's half a dozen islands that I haven't visited.

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Comments

[John B]

Awesome!
Awesome mate!