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Published: August 16th 2008
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Entering Laos
That blue roofed building should have been passport control! Yes I am in Laos and finally for anybody that is contacting me I am now back to my Irish mobile number for the foreseeable future.
I got a boat across the Mekong into Laos from northern Thailand from where I picked up a boat down the Mekong to Luang Phabang whick took 2 days to journey. We stopped off over night in a small backwater town, although the largest along the route, called Pakbeng. A nice little spot, with electricity for a few hours in the evening and some of the best tasting food I have had on my journey so far. But on that note....the food I had in Houayxai (the town I entered into Laos) was by far and away the nicest yet. Laos curry gets a big thumbs up from me! Even beats Thai curry in my humble opinion.
Anyway the trip down the Mekong....one of the highlights of south east Asia according to my rough guide.
And maybe so......if it wasn't rainy season and after severe flooding. Oh boy but had I known then what I know now I thing I might have walked! There is now doubt that the scenery en route is
nothing short of breath taking as the Mekong meanders its way from one valley to the next but Oh my God (Or Oh my Bhudda as a few say round these parts) was it Dangerous (note the capital D). Next time for something safer I am going to bath myself in pigs blood and swim with sharks!
The river ran wild for the two days of the journey. The first day was manageable as we were in a larger boat that could handle itself well and was not too over crowded. The second day on the other hand was a totally different matter. And the omens weren't good from the start (Mam....stop reading now! :-) ) 10 minutes before the boat was to depart a number of people got agitated and tried to leave the boat as they felt it was too over crowded and unsafe for the rough waters down stream. (No life jackets on board by the way (Mam.... I said stop reading....its for your own benefit! :-) You too Cathriona!)) So as they went to get off the captain pulled the boat away from the shore and out onto the river leaving everyone still on board.
Breakfast with a view
From the cafe in Pakbeng..... I was lucky enough to have a seat. It sat somewhere in the region of 80 and there were easily 100+ on the boat.
To begin with that did not do much for Aidans heart rate....and that was only the beginning. After a short while traveling down stream the Mekong began to show its true colours.....and they were not pretty. Had I not known the direction I was heading I would not have known whether we were going upstream or down stream. For hour after hour our boat simple traversed its way through a myriad of whirlpools which clung menacingly to the debris the fell into its path. I was sitting at the rear of the boat and when we came close to any of the larger pools you could feel the boat tipple slightly and the rear of the boat then get pulled towards the eye of the whirlpool. Not a nice feeling at all. Thank God for the ipod and a good book which successfully managed to keep my thoughts at ease for a good period of the trip. I could always sense though when they captain had started turning the boat and against all better judgment I would look up and see what was before us.....not a good idea. I think I am half cannibal at this stage as I had my heart in my mouth for a good two days!
But enough about the trip....or else I could go on about the engine of the boat flooding half way down river and we all nearly getting stranded while we wait for the captain to take the engine apart to drain the water out.....but on the whole that was one one of the better experiences of the journey. At least the river wasn't trying to kill us!
I know I am renowned for being of the slightly sarcastic breed and many might take the above in the same tone......but for once I regret to say that it is not.....I do mean what I say and especially that it was a very difficult trip and that anybody online reading this be very careful when taking this boat trip. Check before hand about the water levels and the condition of the river. After seeing it for myself I do not even think it would have made a difference if I were a strong swimmer....the river would have been stronger! But if the river is calm...and the boat not over crowed I could easily see how this would be an unforgettable tour
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LIBBY
non-member comment
OMG (OH MY GOD)
Hiya Aidan, Great to see your enjoying the rough and tumble in more ways than 1 :o) hey you look after yourself and you better come back in 1 piece ;o)