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Published: July 28th 2008
Mt. Whitney Ridge
from the switchbacks. Mt Muir is on the far left, and Mt Whitney is on the far right.My brother had this crazy idea about a year and a half ago. Lets go climb Mt. Whitney! Having not a clue what was involved with this kind of venture, we started doing research. Well, as luck would have it, actually "climbing" Mt. Whitney is more like a hike than a climb. No ropes & harnesses (good, because neither of us had any real exposure to climbing in the true sense of the word), but the 'hike' does start at an elevation of about 8,400 feet, and rises to the summit (11 miles later) at an altitude of 14,497 feet. That's over 6,000 feet in elevation gain over 11 miles (for those that are reaching for the calculator). Prior to this venture, the highest either of us had hiked was
Baldy Mountain in New Mexico (12,441 feet), and that was when we were fit and trim teenagers... We also learned that you just can't show up and expect to climb the mountain. Mt. Whitney is located within the boundaries of the Sequoia National Park, and entrance into the protected area is monitored via a permitting system maintained by the US National Forest system. Travel into the area is generally best between June
Half Dome (Yosemite)
As seen from the Hwy 120 to the East. and September, but the lottery system for getting permits ahead of time is conducted in February of the same year. Well, so much for hiking the mountain in 2007. So, planning commenced on a hike occurring sometime in the Summer of 2008. We worked through some realistic dates and finally settled on the July 22 - July 24 window. We sent our application to the lottery in February of 2008, and received confirmation in April that we were given the 7/23 through 7/24 hiking window.
Now when we first decided to take on this challenge, we assumed it would have to be a 2 day hike (camping overnight somewhere along the trail). We later learned that some people do this hike in a single day instead of opting for the overnight stay. The more we weighed our options, we decided the one day hike was the better option for us. We also decided that camping the night before at the Whitney Portal campground (elev 8,400 feet, and at the trailhead) was a good idea because it would help us acclimate better to the altitude. We also decided that a smaller warm-up hike the day before (up to Lone Pine
Lake - about 1,700 feet elevation gain, and 2.5 miles each way) was a good way to get our legs warmed up... With our plan in place we set off on our trip to Mt. Whitney...
We departed the morning of Tuesday, July 22 from Elk Grove, CA. Travel time from Elk Grove is a little over 6 hours, and about 320 miles. Our route took us south on Hwy 99, cutting over to Yosemite via Hwy 120, over Tioga Pass. We dropped down by Mono Lake, then headed south on Hwy 395. We stopped in Bishop so Richard could do a little "work", and then continued the final hour into Lone Pine. The town of
Lone Pine is actually a bustling little town for it's size. It is a major stop along Hwy 395, and we were surprised to find so many foreigners in the town (mostly European's) traveling through. The town is also the major backdrop to many Westerns and other films.
We found the Forest Service Station, and arrived to pickup our Permit (our lottery only got us the reservation - we still needed to get the actual permit). We were also given our "pack-out kits"
(yes, EVERYTHING must be packed out - and NO, there are no out-houses out there) and a stern lecture on the Bear activity in the area and their love of motor oil. We were shown all the usual pictures of cars torn apart like beer cans because a bear smelled a french fry under the seat, and had to promise to use the Bear Boxes whenever possible.
We left the station and headed for the local grocery store. Picked up some water and power bars, and headed up the road to Whitney Portal. The town of Lone Pine is about 3,900 feet elevation, and Whitney Portal (a glorified campground) is about 20 minutes to the West at an elevation of 8,400 feet. We arrived at the campground about 2:30 and found our reserved campsite (good job Rich). We setup our tent, then got our daypacks ready for our warmup hike. Out actual campsite was about 7,900 feet (according to my GPS), and was what we thought just a few hundred feet from the trailhead. Instead of driving up to the trailhead to start our warm-up hike, we decided to just start from the campsite (what the heck, all the
Doug & Rich
On the road through Yosemite... more to get us warmed up). We got to the trailhead about 25 minutes later (GPS said it was actually 0.9 miles), and I was quite literally winded. I was starting to have second thoughts about this whole thing. The trailhead actually has some pretty cool signage with information about the hike, rules/regs/etc, and other information about the area. We started our climb up the trail to Lone Pine Lake. The elevation gain leaving Whitney Portal starts out fairly moderate, but increases a little about mid way to the lake. The final 1/4 mile or so starts to rise more gently, and the turn-off to Lone Pine Lake approached faster than I thought. I was happy to learn that while my GPS didn't have us tracking the exact trail the software determined for our route, it did have a very accurate reading of our speed, altitude, and position. We saw several hikers coming down the trail, and most seemed determined to get back to the bottom (this I understood this more when we were completing the real hike next day).
We reached Lone Pine Lake about 4:45pm (a little over an hour and a half), and checked out the
lake for a few minutes. We only spent a few short minutes at the lake, and started heading back down the hill. We were happy that we developed a good rhythm and pace on our way up, and I felt much more confident about the next day. While descending, I was able to retrieve a cell signal, and called home to give them an update. Pretty cool making a cell call in such surroundings.
We made it back to the campsite within 45 minutes. On the way down we discussed our options for the evening, and decided that instead of driving back into Lone Pine to pickup supplies, we would be better off keeping our bodies at the 8,000 feet of elevation and take advantage of every minute of acclamation we could get. When we reached Whitney Portal, we hit-up the little store/grill, and ordered a couple of burgers, fries, and water/Ice Tea. I bought some more power bars for the next day, and we headed back to the campsite. We got settled into bed by 9:00pm, but really couldn't sleep much. Our site was right next to a raging creek, and I'm pretty sure I heard bears out
there (probably going for the oil pan on the car...
My trusty GPS Alarm Clock went off at 2:30am on the dot, and darned if the thing only has a 7 minute snooze button. Oh well, we really weren't sleeping anyway. Got up, and packed everything up into the car. We used a single bag to put any potential bear attractants into the communal bear box at the trailhead (Rich took a chance and left a bottle of motor oil in the trunk). We drove the car up to the trailhead, used the last public restroom/outhouse, snapped some pictures, and were ready to go. There was a scale at the trailhead that I noticed the day before, and we weighed our day packs. Richard's was 15 lbs, mine was 22. Mr. Lavender would have been proud (good job Rich).
We hit the trail at 3:18am, and it was quite the experience hiking at night. About 10 minutes up the trail we could see the lights of other hikers dancing in the distance (both ahead of us and behind us). During the window that we departed, there was nobody else around, so was wondering if this early departure idea
was a good one or not. I felt a little more reassured knowing other people were out there doing the same.
We made great time for the first several hours. We made Lone Pine Lake in 1 hour and 10 minutes, and met up with the first group that was in front of us. They were just finished with their rest, and were taking off again. We opted to only stop for a few minutes. water/powerbar, and we were back walking again. The next section of trail started with a short gentle slope up a glacial washout area, and then we hit a series of switchbacks that took us up another 400 feet or so along the northern wall of the washout area. We met up with that group again. They were resting, but we wanted to continue, so we chatted briefly and kept going. This was one of several groups we would play hop-scotch with the rest of the day. I refer to this group as the "20 minute" group because every time we met up with them they would say "It's only another 20 minutes...".
We continued across a meadow area. The moon was more than
half full, so we had enough light to make out images and the general lay of the land, but couldn't really see too much detail. We could hear waterfalls, but couldn't see them (oh well, maybe on the way down). We continued past the western end of the meadow which is called Outpost Camp. We were now 3.8 miles into the hike, were at 10,400 feet, and it was about 5:15am (we were about 45 minutes ahead of schedule). Past Outpost Camp we continued up a series of switchbacks for another quarter mile or so, and the early highlights of sunrise were starting to show. We came upon Mirror Lake, and the mosquitoes were really starting to come out now. We quickly got our insect repellent on, and while the scenery was spectacular, we decided to push on to get above the mosquito line.
Continuing on, the trail started going over straight granite (no more nice dirt trails...) The trail became very steppy (lots of bigger climbs, and awkward footing). The elevation was now approaching 11,000 feet, and I was really starting the feel the lack of oxygen in the air. We started slowing our pace down a bit,
and I think we were having a challenge finding the right pace that fit us both. Several small groups (including the 20 minute group) had now caught up to us and passed us. The sun had now broken the horizon, and the canyon we were climbing absolutely exploded with color and contour. It is amazing just how immense this place is (we later agreed that it was like Yosemite on steroids). We were now above the tree line, and the mosquitoes had thinned out considerably.
By 6:30am we had passed Trailside Meadows (we actually didn't realized we passed it until we were almost to the next stop). We rested shortly on the climb outside Trailside Meadows, and then continued up the canyons that lead us to Consultation Lake. The lake was spectacular with the backdrop of the sheer granite and snow pack behind it (boy I bet that water is cold). We were now approaching 12,000 feet, and had passed the halfway point (mileage anyway). Just past Consultation Lake is a flattened out granite area that is called Trail Camp. It is a popular camping point for people who are making this a 2+ day journey, and there were
probably a good dozen tents scatter in and around the area. We made our way to the other end of the camping area, just at the base of the ominous "97 Switchbacks" and decided to stop for a rest. I had developed a blister the day before (during the practice hike), so I had to redress that, and we ate another round of snacks and had more water. It was about 8:15am, and we were over an hour ahead of schedule when we started our ascent.
The "97 Switchbacks" is a climb that leads you up the final 1,700 feet to the ridge (that eventually leads to the summit). The climb is 2.2 miles, but the altitude gain from 12,000 feet to 13,700 is the hard part, and the fact that the last 1/5 mile is VERY steep makes it all the more difficult. We were both not looking forward to this part, but felt we were managing the hike well to this point, so were confident we could make it given the right pace (and it's all about the right pace for YOU - not what everyone else is doing around you - and you have to keep
reminding yourself of this). The first dozen or so switchbacks were fine. The sun was really starting to come up over the canyon below, and while you would think it would be getting warmer, it was actually somewhat cooler (we started the hike at 57 F, and it was now 54 F). I was REALLY feeling the lack of oxygen now.... Every step seemed labored, and when I broke my breathing rhythm to try to swallow, I almost choked myself - I later re-learned how to avoid this. The "goals" got much shorter. Instead of thinking about making the next stop, it was making the next 3 switchbacks, then the next 2, then finally down to 20 steps... At the time it was clearly the most difficult part of the journey - but the view was something I've never seen before. The canyon that lay out behind us was incredible, and it was good to look back from time to time to get a sense of just how much we had climbed. It became a good moral booster, but on the same hand, looking up the hill ahead was a complete downer. A few times I caught myself looking up
Mt. Whitney
As seen from Hwy 395, just north of Lone Pine. the sheer cliff that we were ascending, and seeing the people hundreds of feet above me. Seeing how far I had to go simply made my stomach knot up.
At some point during the assent, we passed the 12,441 foot mark (the highest we'd been before). I don't recall the exact point, but I'm sure my body does. It was beginning to get a little warmer, and at one point I stopped to send a text message to Charlene and Mom. We were getting sporadic cell coverage, but I thought I'd at least try.
About 1/2 way up the Switchbacks is a section where they have installed steal cables (this roughly marks the halfway point of the switchbacks). It was great to see those cables, and I almost missed the fact that it protected us from falling off a 500+ foot cliff. Continuing past the cables, we passed the 8 mile rock (a faint mark on a boulder to the side of one of the switchbacks) and I knew we were close. Counting the switchbacks doesn't work, but if it did, you'd be very disappointed. The final switchback is several hundred feet long (most are much shorter), but
it leads to the final checkpoint before the summit (Trail Crest). We were now 8.2 miles into the journey, and were at 13,700 feet (OH MY GOD)...
Trail Crest is something most people will never see, and it truly defines what the Sierra Mountains are all about. The ridge that is created when the Western Sierras meet the Eastern Sierra is a true wonder. The jagged ridge, and all the rock and debris that are the result of this clash of tectonic plates are simply amazing. As we approached this fine saddle between two massive rock croppings, a blast of COLD air hit us in the face. While it was refreshing at first, we quickly realized the temperature had dropped a good 25+ degrees, and it was time to put the sweaters back on. Because this saddle area is so small, there isn't a lot of room for groups to gather. It was 11:00am, and we were still an hour ahead of schedule. We briefly chatted with a couple other groups, but then decided it was time to press on. As a precaution, I read the next section aloud to Rich (I'd been doing this part by part just
Mt. Whitney
as seen from Lone Pine. so we could talk about the experience). What I guess I missed when I read this back at home was that this next section is the hardest of the trip (WHAT???)....
Most of the traditional pictures of Mount Whitney show a series of jagged "Cliff Like" mountains. I had studies our route extensively before going on this journey, and knew that once we reached Trail Crest, we would cross over the ridge, and continue up to the summit via the Western portion of the ridge - makes sense because the Eastern side is a thousand plus foot sheer cliff... But when we got there, it was totally not what I expected. The topo maps show a gentle elevation gain over this final 2+ miles, but it's the actual terrain itself that makes this part difficult.
You begin the final assent to the top with a drop of 300 feet to the John Muir Junction (WHAT, I HAVE TO LOSE 300 FEET???) I know that sounds silly, but that final 300 feet to the Crest was a killer, and now we immediately lost it in the final assent... We were both pretty upset over this part, but the sheer
Mt. Whitney
as seen from the drive up Whitney Portal Rd. rock croppings up from the ridge wouldn't allow the trail to go any other way. Oh well, no point in arguing about it - on we press. We hit the John Muir Junction in a matter of minutes (of course, it's all down hill). The John Muir junction is where the trail that leads from Sequoia National Park (to the West) meets up with our trail. All down hill from here, but we're not going that way...
From this point, it's all up hill. Another 1,000 feet in elevation spread over 2.3 miles, and this is the hardest portion of the trail. The trail immediately got difficult. Boulders precariously balanced on tall pillars (some of which had previously fallen into the trail) made travel slow and difficult. The fact that we were mentally and physically drained made navigating this difficult trail slow and tedious. The first mile of this trail was pretty much all the same. As we passed around the western portion of the ridge, we came upon the saddles that you can see all the way from Lone Pine, and they are pretty cool... Peering over the edge, it's a 1,000 foot drop. We tried to take
pictures, but they simply don't explain the depth of distance between the saddle and the fallout below. In some points, the trail narrows to a mere 4 feet across (one side the Western Sierras, the other the Eastern - watch your step).
After about a mile of very difficult trail, we started to hit a gentler slopping western ridge. The terrain was still very rocky, but not dangerous or unmanageable. The difficult part now was that we had passed 14,000 feet and lack of oxygen was the REAL problem. The difference in altitude from 12,000 to 12,500 is nothing like the difference from 14,000 to 14,500. I had to stop every 10 steps or so to catch my breath. At one point I actually ditched my pack (despite the warnings to NOT do this). After getting rid of the backpack (and trimmed down to a belly pack with water) I was able to move better, and caught back up with Rich. Rich crossed the summit before me, but by 1:00 we were both basking in the sun on the summit of the tallest mountain in the continental United States...
I probably don't have to explain just how incredible
the view was, or just how far you could see (the weather was completely perfect - not a cloud in the sky, and an almost complete lack of wind). It was difficult to more around the actual area of the summit (huge boulders). We found a few different markers (not sure what's up with that), and took a few pictures from the top. We also got our first view of a marmot (yes, the ONLY marmot we saw on the trip was on the top of the mountain at 14,497. The cat sized animal actually tried to raid a few unwatched backpacks but was quickly shoed away.
We spent about 35 minutes on the summit, taking in the view, signing the register, and checking out the stone hut (with its numerous "Lighting Warning" messages) before starting our decent. It was 1:35pm, and as we started our decent, it became apparent that we both had some physical issues to deal with. Richard was experiencing some major ankle and knee pain, and my right hip kind of stopped working. We managed to make our way back to Trail Crest with a fair amount of pain involved, and decided it was time
to crack into the meds. I took the only two Advil I had, and gave Rich two Tylenol before descending the 97 switchbacks. It was 3:00, and we were among the last groups trying to get off the mountain...
We descended the 97 switchbacks in just under an hour (way faster than going up). We stopped near the bottom to fill two water bottles, and get them started with Iodine treatment (despite the other groups around saying there was no danger of Giardia). We continued past Trail Camp, and didn't stop for a water break until about 4:45 just past Trailside Meadow. We were passing several groups now - funny how long legs and autopilot can help you make good time....
After our short water break, we didn't discuss it but it became apparent that we both just wanted off the mountain. We took turns leading (to set pace), but ended up making it back with only very short breaks for pictures (to catch stuff we passed in the dark on the way up) in record time. We hit the trailhead at 6:40pm. YES, we did it.....
We hit the car, loaded up the packs, and DROVE
Cactus Flowers on the Trail
On the trail to Lone Pine Lake. (yes, drove) the 500 feet to the Portal Store. Loaded up on the usual souvenir shirts/etc, and then headed down the hill to Lone Pine. We were able to make a few random phone calls on the way down to let people know we made it out, but our bodies were already feeling the affects of the abuse. By the time we hit the parking lot of the Dow Villa Motel in Lone Pine (a short 20 minutes later), we looked like a couple of crippled old men getting out of the convertible. We checked in, and got the John Wayne room (yes, this was supposedly John Wayne's room when he stayed in Lone Pine for numerous western movie shoots - yeah, right).
Dinner was a short drive to the grocery store for a six-pack of beer and a bottle of Advil, then stopping off at the Pizza Factory for a Pizza to go. We watched a little (very little) TV before crashing.....
Up at 9:00, a short shower and packing, and we were off to breakfast (what should have been a short walk, but seemed like an eternity) to the diner next door. We were on the
road by 10:30 after a short picture taking opportunity, and the rest is history....
So what's the next Climb you ask????
tbc...
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Meredith Elliott
non-member comment
Good job!
Wow! What an adventure! It sounded like such a difficult hike to take on, but you did it. Great pictures, too. I think my quads cramped up just looking at the photos of the switchbacks--oh my stars, that looked like hell! Those alpine pictures are stunning. And the marmot!! How cool is that!?! I wonder what it was doing at the summit....seems weird. While Half Dome is not as daunting, Mark and I will be hiking that in September, so your story and pictures make me want to do Half Dome even sooner. Great job, bros!! :) Love, Meri