Starving in Jaipur

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India just wouldn't be India without stomach issues. So now that we're back we've decided to throw-up a few times, have 'interesting' trips to the bathroom, and become totally repulsed whenever we catch sights of a 'Dosa'. Otherwise....

Delhi was an interesting stop on our little journey through India. We assumed, being the capital, it would be the center of Indian culture and therefore crazy and hectic like no other place on earth. Our suspicions were confirmed once we stepped off the train in New Delhi. Like a moving ocean, full of peaks and ripples, people moved everywhere. Once outside the station things didn't change. The street, or clearing of mud, was packed with vendors hawking anything from shoes to samosas. Busy travelers moved about, keeping one eye on their feet (you don't want to step in the 'mud' here - it burns) and the other surveying the loot. We wiggled and maneuvered our way through, ending up at the 'Main Bazaar'. Here colorful Saree shops gave way only to pushy rickshaw drivers and the occasional cow. We booked a room, dropped the bags, and joined the melee.

Over two full days we trudged through intense heat to explore Catnaught Place (the biggest round-about you've ever dreamt of where almost every major street in the city meets, walked virtually pristine avenues of New Delhi and explored the central Government Buildings (pristine until you walk 2 kilometers south and find men shitting in the street), braved the delusion of Old Delhi were literally every inch of earth and building is designed to either sell something, collect urine, or feed you, and on and on. Not mentioned was our visit to the largest mosque in India (really breath taking to imagine 25,000 people all praying at once - we weren't allowed in during prayer). We also explored the Red Fort, a somewhat over rated but still enchanting bit of history that looks like its name sounds just larger and far, far more elaborate; Humayum's Tomb, a beautiful building that looks strikingly similar to the Taj Mahal only older; as well as the Gandhi Museum, an interesting yet strange take on the father of India who was killed on the grounds we were walking. Countless small streets, alleys, twists and turns made up the bulk of the stop, but they are too intimate to describe here. If you want to know, book a flight. I will say that these non-tourist destinations, the alleys you seem to find by sense alone, are our favorite. The people are not out for your money, they're out for your name and a hand shake. The buildings aren't dressed to impress, they're humble and simple. Everything is the way it is every day, we're merely passing through, trying not to disrupt the perfect balance but making a big enough wave to ride long after we're gone.

A 6am train ride spelled the end of Delhi and the start of Agra. 'Delhi Belly' erupted in me (Andrew) sometime between peaceful sleep and cursing tainted food - Al would get her dose just a few hours later. But to Agra we went. When we arrived we headed straight to the Taj Mahal area, booked a hotel and, well, to be honest, I shit my brains out. Al wasn't far behind. I'm trying to give an honest account of life here, and stomach issue is a major part. It pretty much plagues your body 24/7, and when it doesn't you're thinking about it. Anyway, after the shitting, we headed out to the Taj. Unlike Delhi I wasn't too interested in this stop. I'd seen photos and movies and heard so much about it back in the states that I really didn't think the extra train ride (plus ridiculous admission prices) were worth it. I wore the jack-ass pin the rest of the day. It was well worth it! Seeing the building in person was, well it was beyond words. Such beauty, such detail, so pristine and amazing. From afar it rises white into blue skies, the signature dome piercing the heavens which literally seem to be raining down on it. Up close you see the immaculate detail of every inch. The hand carved marble, the in-laid stones, even the floors are gorgeous. It really is something to see, the most beautiful building my eyes have ever gazed at.

That was about it for Agra - there isn't a whole lot else to see there and frankly the city isn't all that nice. So the next morning we were off to Jaipur, were I sit now. Jaipur, or the 'Pink City' is our first taste of desert life. We'll be spending the next 2 weeks in the desert, this is the biggest city we'll see until Mumbai. We arrived to torrential rains, soaking us when we tried to explore. They haven't had rain here for awhile, so sewers overflowed with trash (and human waste), puddles and mud grew everywhere, and the whole city seemed to run for cover. They laughed with they saw two tourists, literally soaking from head to toe, walk by while avoiding whatever water was sitting on the ground. Needless to say we didn't explore long, instead drying off back in the room, waiting for a break, then trying again. This time the sun broke out and the city came alive. The old walled city is indeed mostly pink, and also mostly filled with bazaars, beggars and motorbikes. It makes for an interesting walk. Everyone was so nice. So many locals came up to us to just talk. Boys wanted to shake my hand, people offered gifts (though we refused), a group of adolescents even asked Al to sign their shirts (haha). A great stop. Tickled pink....

Tonight we are off to Jodhpur for a few days, then Jaisalmer for a camel trek into the desert. We did manage to visit a Jet Air office today and changed our flight back to Bangkok for two days earlier. India, needless to say, is exhausting, and the thought of only 2 full days on the beaches of Thailand didn't sound as inviting as 4. It doesn't effect our India plans at all, probably means we won't be in Mumbai for as long, but we both agree it's worth it.

Enjoy the pics, and enjoy work!

Andrew (and Alyssa)

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Comments

[Dad (or Dave)]

We really enjoy the blogs. Bet they don't sell a lot of Ex-Lax in India. The pictures are great. Keep 'em coming..