MAGICAL MENDOZA

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Another bus journey completed and another destination. We cannot believe how much we have seen and done in Argentina already and we have both really enjoyed the country. Mendoza was our last stop and we had high hopes with a range of activities to do and wonderful scenery to explore. We had not booked a hostel in Mendoza so jumped onto the internet in the bus station and decided as we were staying a few nights to book a room with ensuite in a very well positioned hostel with grest reviews. We phoned them and they had room so we jumped a taxi straight away.

We were received very well by the guy at reception and hostel seemed really nice. Our room was fabulous with a large bed and lovely bathroom so we were already pleased with our choice. We had two main things we wanted to do here. A tour of the local wineries as Mendoza is a major wine region in the country and also horse riding in the Andes. We booked both on the recommendation of our hostel so we were left with our first afternoon to ourselves. As we had indulged so much eating out in recent weeks we decided to make use of the extremely well stocked supermarket across the road and went for healthy options to appease our growing shapes!!!!! We also had to sort out our crossing back to Santiago by bus. The pass through the andes can be closed without warning and having checked our options with the hostel we had to go back to the bus station to sort out tickets. We aired on the side of caution leaving an extra day should any travel problems arise. It meant we had 4 nights in Mendoza and 2 when we got back to Santiago. Because of our flight to Peru and our booked Inca trail we could not afford to have any problems. With that arranged and a lovely tea enjoyed (and watching the euros final) we had an early night as our wine tour pick up was 9am the next day.

The pick up was late but it was no big deal as the sun was shining and the day had started beautifully. We just sat on the wall of our hostel waiting patiently (yes us patient!!!). As it transpired we were the only couple on the tour and the guide greeted us warmly and spoke good english. We had excellent views of the snow capped andes on our way to the first winery. We arrived a little after 10.30am (early to be drinking) to a medium sized winery. We were taken on the tour by an employee who also spoke good english and they showed us the process the grapes go through and how they are fermented and aged. The winery dated back to the 19th century and the cask oak barrels that they had for the ageing process were huge. She answered all our questions and we had lots of them and then took us through to the tasting area. We tried two red wines and one white and then a grape juice. The first red was a caberbet sauvignon which was a young wine from 2007. It was smooth but lacked body. The second was a blend of caberbet sauvignon and malbec 2002 and this was full bodied really to be drank with food. Very nice though. The white was extremely sweet and neither of us enjoyed that one so much and the grape juice was like drinking straight cordial. It is only made for giving to any children on the wine tours which we thought was a nice touch. After an hour or so we got back on the bus and headed to the next winery. This was much smaller in size only bottling half the capacity of the first. The process was almost the same only as the winery did not have deep cool cellars for the aging process they used a watering system where the wine would be pumped out of the vats around an inner pipe while the water ran through an outer pipe thus cooling the wine as it went. In both wineries the temperature had to be kept at around 17 degrees. We then had our wine tasting again and the same process of what to look for in a wine how to taste the wine and then how to choose your wine. We had 3 reds here and all were very different. The caberbet sauvignon was a little bitter and the malbec was very peppery the final wine we tried was the blend again and that was very heavy. This winery also had a very special line of wines that was originally created for the owners daughters wedding. Not bad when your dad can make you your own wine eh!! That had been so popular that they had continued the line and it was quite expensive so we did not get to try that as it was too expensive. We did not buy a bottle either as we could not afford it!!!!

Finally we headed off to a distillery which was very interesting. They made the local spirit grappa as well as gin and triple sec etc...The process is obviously very different to the wineries but the product is made from the skins and seeds that the wineries discard so nothing gets wasted. Our tasting session here was extreme. The grappa was so strong that it burnt all the was down but at 47 percent proof what can you expect. The triple sec we tried was orange and stupidly sweet but she did give us some of a new liquer which was caramel and was delicious!!! From here we headed for lunch which was included in the tour.

After about a 20 minute drive we found ourselves pulling up to two large gates which opened in to a lovely old building and courtyard. We were led down many steps into what had to the basement and a little room to ourselves. The table was long and could have seated 10 people but their was only me and Tim. It was filled with cheese, meat, pickles, breads, salad, dips etc.. it was a huge spread. Our guide gestured for us to sit and then proceeded to tell us that we had what was on the table plus 4 courses and then dessert. We both though he was joking but he was not. As we tantalised our taste buds with the cheese and pickles a waiter arrived with an empanada. This is like a little pasty and has various fillings this one was chicken. A little later he arrived with a bowl of stew which was delicious. Then he arrived with another empanada (veg) and then with spaghetti bolognaise. Oh and I forgot to say all the wine we could drink was included too. So as we are indulging we are also get to enjoy the winery of the restaurant as they make their own. It was lovely and intimate and we both really enjoyed it. The waiter arrived with a second bottle of wine - how can you refuse???? As we sipped and let our meal settle he cleared the table, there was a huge amount left!!! It was then suggested that we may wish to enjoy our desset in the courtyard. As the day was really sunny we agreed and set off up the steps wine in hand. It was so warm that we both took our fleeces off (have not done that in a long time) and continued to sip our wine and water when the ice cream arrived. It was also very big and I did mine little justice!!!! Our guide came and sat with us and we chatted with him about life in Argentina. It is conversations like this that make you realise that even though our countries are different financially and stability wise the rest is little different. It was a really nice afternoon and a real highlight. We headed back to the hostel warm and fuzzy and in great spirits. We then proceeded to take full advantage of the hostel to ourselves and had a hour or so playing table tennis. We soon retired early to our bed!!!!!

We were up again early the next day for our horse riding. Having been picked up late again we were pleased to see that the day had started just as well as the previous. It was a long journey out to the stables and it took over a 90 minutes. When we arrived it was unclear as what was happening as mainly the group we were with spoke spanish. Eventually a lady arrived speaking english and before too long we were on our horse. As we sat there getting our safety brief my horse decided he was bored and started to mingle between the other horses. Not being anywhere near proficient on a horse all I could do was hiss at him to stop moving. Quite pathetic really but eventually he got the message. The first 20 minutes were nerve racking as neither of us had much confidence. We rode through the country and found ourselves following a trail with the Andes in the distance on one side. The air was fresh the views breathtaking and the weather could not have been better. Our riding improved with time and after the better riders went off for a gallop we returned back to the stables feeling more confident. We were on the full day booking so there were only 6 of us left out of 14. Lunch was a great event set in the garden with everyone chatting and enjoying the meat that kept being brought out from the BBQ. The salad was divine and the red wine delightful. It was leisurely too and after about two hours we were finally back on our horses.

The second trail was more taxing and I had to work hard on my horse to keep up. He just did not want to canter and I was finding myself frustratingly behind the others. Eventually we came to an understanding and he would canter along for a bit to make sure I was with the group. Tim waited for me too which was really sweet. This ride took us along a more rocky and steep path and we actaully found ourselves very close to the foot of the Andes. It was still a long way to them but was a much closer view than the morning ride. Turning back towards the direction we came we rode through streams and up and down little hills. Before too long we were back where we had started. Dismounting was a problem as my leg seemed to have gone dead but finally a dragged myself off with one very sore backside!!!!! We both thought it had been a really good day and by the time we got back to the hostel it was quite late. Not needing any food after our sumptuous lunch we sat chatting with the others in the hostel and what should have been an early night turned into a gone midnight. You meet so many different characters in hostels and what was great was we met a couple that have travelled central america so we spent ages picking up tips off them.

Having had broken nights sleep with aches and pains we awoke a little later than usual and meandered down to breakfast. We were really struggling booking our bus from Lima to Cuzco for the inca trail and after breakfast we spent two hours trying to confirm out tickets. It was extremely stressful as they were the last two seats on the bus on the day that we had to get it. Finally it accepted our credit card but it was no fun trying to get them confirmed. The rest of the day we spent wondering around the local park which was really pretty. Lots of people exercising making us feel guilty!!!! After another healthy salad we settled down to a DVD having packed all our stuff up once again.

Our bus to Santiago left Mendoza on the 4th July at 10am. The crossing is unpredictable time wise but if you get a good day the views are supposed to be inspiring and wonderful. We prayed for a clear day.......................................

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Photos

Machinery at the first winery
For squashing, skinning and seeding

Comments

[El Scook Y Natalia]

hey guys!
we just recognised you from your photo...like your blog! (this is Natalie and Si - we met you at hostel Alamo in Mendoza) hope you are having fun wherever you are now!