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Published: June 27th 2008
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After passing out at 8:30 the night before, I was wide awake by 5:30 am. Afraid of starting my day too early, I hung out in the room for a while catching up on email and trying out Skype. It was great to be able to hold a conversation over the internet, although I ran out of internet time mid-conversation and had to cut my chatting time short.
The Sri-Tokyo Hotel included breakfast in the price of their room, so I feasted on a Thai omelet filled with fried rice and chicken. Very tasty, and not a combination I would have ever thought of. After repacking I left my things with reception and set out to explore the town on foot. I got as far as the major Wat in town, Wat Phra Singh and then immediately made friends with a driver. Long was amiable, spoke enough English that we could converse, and had handwritten recommendations from other English speakers recommending his services. Of course, it was the offer of visiting the three temples on my itinerary plus some of the handicraft factories for a mere 100 baht (about $3) that sold me. That worked out to $1 an hour to
save me from walking in the heat. And Long even threw in some photography services so that I could prove it was me in Chiang Mai and not just some stock photographs stolen from the internet. We next visited Chiang Man, the oldest Wat in the city. It was equally impressive. I found it fascinating to see how the different temples looked so similar and yet were decorated in such a way as to make each one unique. The varied and ornate Buddhas were also awe inspiring, although on some the gold foil squares were visibly peeling off. At this Wat I also made friends with a nice gentleman from Phuket who was in town to buy fabric so that he could have clothes made for his sister and sent to her in Holland. He recommended that I go to Superior XXXX to have a suit made and marked it for me on the map. Long had equally nice things to say about the tailor, so we added it to my itinerary for the day.
The third stop was Wat Chedi Luang, which was my favorite of the three. The main temple was being restored, so I could only see
the outside. The restoration workers are doing a fantastic job. What made this site the most interesting, however, was the giant decaying stupa in the center. It contained 3 Buddhas and some reconstructed elephant sculptures. Only one original sculpture remained, and the poor creature was missing its trunk and both its ears. Who knew there were deaf elephants lacking a sense of smell?
The visit to the tailor was great, although I was a little disappointed in myself for getting talked into making a purchase today. I did feel good about the price though - a jacket, pants and skirt for what one suit off the rack would cost in the US. And this one should fit me a lot better. He wanted me to come back for a fitting in 2 days, but my return to Chiang Mai won’t be nearly as speedy as the rate at which he sews!
At the handicraft district I first visited the gem factory, claiming to be the largest jewelry store in the world. Good thing I’m poor and not a huge jewelry freak or my credit cards would have been drained! My guide was the amiable Nina, who showed me the work
Me at the Wat
Long was always offering to be a photographer. room and explained the process of carving jade, creating jewelry settings, and polishing stones. And then, of course, she took me to the showroom and convinced me to try on numerous rings. She nearly talked me into a $40 jade and cubic zirconium silver beauty, but I stayed strong and walked away with only a birthday present for mom (sorry mom, but you’re going to have to wait until September to see your gift, I refuse to spoil it here!).
From there it was a rug store (the owner hated me when I wouldn’t purchase anything) and a leather store (same scenario) at which point I begged Long not to take me to any more stores where they’d try to bully me into buying something. He explained that we could skip all but one, as the last one gives him gasoline coupons, so I needed to distract the salesman for 10 minutes so he could get one. This sounded like a fun game, so I agreed. We stopped in a pashmina store, where the salesman wanted me to try on every color and fabric in the store! I have to give him credit for being a good salesman, although when
Random Wat
They're everywhere! he told me some of the pieces I had tried were over $1000 I nearly chided him for mistaking me for someone with money! He drove a hard bargain, dropping the price on a mid-range shawl from 1800 baht to 1250 baht (which he claimed was cost), but I just couldn’t justify buying something I was only going to wear once a year. It turned out to be a great technique, as he literally kept dropping the price and showing me numbers as I walked out the door. Of course, I did get his business card in case anyone else wants me to go back and pick one up (*cough* mom *cough* too bad I’d already bought your present!). They really were great quality.
Long and I made plans to visit some of the sites outside of town once Wes gets here, and he gave me his number to make arrangements in a few weeks. Then Long dropped me at a food stall for lunch, where I sat out the afternoon rainstorm while feasting on noodles and spring rolls. By the time I had walked a half hour or so in the direction of the hotel the heat was taking
Forest Monk
Or at least a statue that looks just like him... its toll, and I paid the 20 baht for an internet café simply to sit in front of the fan and cool off. I ended up overshooting my hotel and heading back to the mall, where there was a 3:30 showing of “Kung Fu Panda” (in English!) where I could enjoy some air conditioning and rest. The jet lag was starting to catch up with me and the heat really wasn’t helping! An enjoyable way to pass the afternoon, especially when I had spent the morning travelling all over the city. I realized I had fully adjusted to Thai prices when I was startled by the steep 70 baht fee for the movie (all of $2 or so). It’s funny how quickly these things start to sound expensive. I was also horrified that I spent almost 1600 baht in two days - until, of course, I realized how cheap that was for room, board, rides, entertainment….I could get used to this! Much more affordable than the summer I spent in London.
Now I am back at the airport, waiting for my ride to Phrao and the start of my internship adventure!
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Billy
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You're bringing back so many great memories. It's pretty easy to get used to those prices, no? Again, we're so psyched for you--and hope that this experience is one you'll never forget. You'll be an old pro by the time Wes gets there!