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Published: July 21st 2008
Puerto Iguazu was tropical and warm, a total weather contrast from Buenos Aires, and we started discarding our hoodies on the pavement as we struggled down the road with the heavy backpacks. Our hostel was a calm, serene place, the silence only interrupted by hummingbirds who came to sample a tasty pollen treat from the abundent flowers outside our room.
We headed off to see the Iguazu falls the next morning, and taking the advice of a very knowledgable girl in the hostel first we trekked for a bit in the jungle, spotting all sorts of birds and some of the big cute rodent like creatures that amble about the paths. Back from our trek we spotted many of the cute smaller varieties of rodent like animals sitting on the grass around the complex. First off we were taken in a huge vehicle through the jungle and given a guided tour of the surrounding vegetation and told of the many sightings of all sorts of animals. It was very interesting but we were impatient as we couldn't wait to see the waterfalls.
Our first view of the amazing Iguazu falls was from the Argentinian side. A big fan of
Wild toucans
Puerto Iguazu, Argentina. the scenes in the Mission where Jeremy Irons dexterously picks his way up the waterfall, I couldn't wait to see them with my own eyes. Nothing could prepare me for the awesome power and force of the water, staggering and loud as it gushes over the rock, creating massive white mists. We had decided to go on the 'Gran Adventure', which meant that our first view was from a speed-boat, and our second was from the interior of the white mist. A boat full of dignified dry tourists turned into a mess of drowned rats within nanoseconds, and it was so funny, the driver ratcheting up the tension by pausing before plunging us once more into the freezing water. I kept shouting for my Mammy, but she was so far away I doubt she could hear me over the racket of the water.
We met a great guy, David Mitchell, on the boat and spent the day wandering around the falls with him. In addition to the falls themselves, we admired the accompanying wildlife, racoons spotting ornate fluffy caterpillars, ornately patterned butterflies, sun-bathing lizards and glossy fish gliding in the water. By the time we reached the Devil's Throat,
which you walk to via a platform that takes you right close to the top of the action, all three of us (Alan, David and I) were bouncing up and down with enthusiasm. the Devil's Throat is one of the most aptly named natural phenomena I've ever seen and it does literally look like the swirling mayhem of indigestion that Old Beelzebub would need a factory of tablets to quieten.
I'm struggling with the words to describe it, as Bart Simpson once said, 'I use up all of my English'. All I will say is that I'd thoroughly recommend going to Iguazu if you get the opportunity, it was a definite highlight of our big adventure. After the falls we were silenced somewhat (for about 2 seconds) before we all started yapping again and wandered back to the entrance - we were starving at this point and spent the return journey detailing the exact specifications of our forthcoming dinner which unfortunately did not sate our hunger whatsoever. However despite our ferocious hunger we had to stop time and time again to look at the specatular birds and animals, and when we spotted Tucans (symbol of our beloved Guinness) in
Three nations at dusk
Separated by the Rio Parana. Argentina on the left, Paraguay straight ahead and Brazil to the right of the picture. a tree, the day was sealed as one of the most amazing of our collective trips.
We made our way back to the town by bus (I got annoyed at a German couple who queue skipped. There were about one hundred people in an orderly line and these two feckers decided to push on at the front.... GRRR! I am quite a righteously indignant person and when some people were refused entry on the bus because of these two yokes who of course are well versed in the etiquette of queuing I made sure I used some choice words to communicate my ire.). We met up again for a delicious dinner that delightfully surpassed all the extremely specific specifications we had outlined prior to eating it. We also drank copious amounts of wine and beer and toasted everything we could think of.
The next day David headed to Peru and we made our way to Brazil by taxi. On the huge bridge our driver pointed out Uruguay, Argentina (where we had just of course come from) and Brazil (straight ahead of the car, unsurprisingly). I felt as though I was standing on a map or a globe. I
find borders intriguing, not ten minutes after we crossed the bridge we were in our new hostel chatting with Manu (cool hostel guy) and trying desperately to repeat his greatfully received helpful key Portuguese words. So here we are, just a few miles away from our last home and it is so different - the language obviously, but even the food in the supermarkets and the vibe of the place. Borders make more sense when you fly from one place to another I find, when you travel overland they seem a little absurd at times.
We spent the day lounging outside as our hostel had sun loungers, a decent book-swap and a bar (an honesty bar where you write down what drinks you consume and pay for them at the end... I love it. I can't imagine it working at home, but it seemed to work well in Brazil!). After a Sprite and a few hours reading a random book about a recovering Heroin addict (note to self: don't do heroin. it's just not cool) we dragged ourselves out for a walk about the town and discovered a Japanese restaurant. Suffering from a lack of noodles we said hang
Iguazu Falls
Brazilian side, from the boardwalk near the base of the falls the expense and slurped merrily away.
The next morning we got up early and headed off to see the falls from the Brazilian side. We got the bus, and the buses here are similar to those in Buenos Aires, a man with a turnstile taking our money while the driver does his job. When you arrive at the complex you then board another bus which takes you to the falls. The views from Brazil are amazing too, very panoramic. Everyone was clicking away and there was a sense of bonhomie as we offered to take photos for other people and they did the same in return. By the time we had reached the café at the end we had chatted with loads of people and everyone agreed that the falls are truly specatcular. Again we delighted in the abundance of colourful butterflies, birds and cheeky raccoons who like to forage in the rubbish bins and are very tame. We spent hours looking at the falls and could have spent days, they are amazing, so powerful and beautiful to look at.
After the falls we headed down the road to visit the Aviary, and were blown away by the
Iguazu falls
A view of the extended system from the Argentinian side array of amazing birds. The bird sanctuary is definitely worth a visit, we spent hours wandering around looking at a huge array of colourful parrots, scary birds of prey, pelicans, owls, emus, budgies, a glorious variety of hummingbirds, many types of Tucan and even Iguanas and a huge Anaconda. As well as looking, listening to the chirping, sqwaking, crying, singing and humming was exciting in itself. The way in which the aviary is set up allows you to get close to lots of the birds and lots of vegetation ensures that the setting is as spectacular as the birds themselves. We had a good bit of time so it was great to spend time standing still and spotting the birds, kind of like a real-life 'Where's Wally' game.
That night we headed back to the hostel and delightfully David Mitchell had found us and come to visit us. Manu had persuaded Alan to join in a Brazilian vs. Everybody Else game of soccer and David was easily convinced to augment the Irish contingent on the team. After a lovely dinner and chats with pretty much all of our fellow hostel guests (the hostel was very sociable) The two of
Iguazu
Argentina them headed off in an Irish shirt (David) and a Boca shirt (Alan - this was it's first airing and he was so proud. I told him he looked as though he was playing for County Clare but he was having none of it).
I read the end of my book and was delighted to find that my Heroin addict became a very successful upstanding pillar of her community, so my delight turned to joy when my Boca Junior returned to tell me that he had made his countrymen proud. Unfortunately the Brazilians did win, but only by a goal, which is good, apparently, and they had given it their best shot. I was going to do the Yoda quote - 'do or do not, there is no try...' but thought that would be a trifle mean.
The next day we headed off to Rio on a 24 hour bus ride. All our fellow hostellers shook their heads in dismay, warning us that the buses in Brazil are not up to the high standards of Argentina, but we were low on funds and besides it's kind of cool to travel from Santiago to Rio by bus.... isn't it?
Iguazu
looking upriver ino the Devil's throat. Isn't it?.... Em... Ok, as I said, we were low on funds...!
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Graciela
non-member comment
Lovely
I have been there. They are amazing. But I have to be honest, the best views and experiences are at the Argentine side. I am from Argentina, yes. Lovely picture with the Boca Juniors T-shirt, my son is a fan. Love from Argentina.