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Lav negotiates the hazardous boulders-fields along the River Tees. Falcon Clints, Pennine Way. County Durham
Every now and again we stopped to look up at the rocky steep slopes, and were rewarded with Kestrels hovering above. Friday 9 May - Day 13 and another 13 miles!
We continued up the Tees - as we ascended the scenery became gradually more and more wild and remote. We spent an hour clambering over boulder-fields and scree, which was very hazardous in places. From time to time we saw kestrels hovering above the impressive Falcon Clints - which was a welcome sight and also gave us a chance to stop and catch our breath as we carefully made our way over the fallen rocks by the River Tees.
On rounding a corner, we then came upon the perfectly named "Cauldron Snout" - a fuming torrent of water crashing down a series of cascading waterfalls - possibly even more spectacular than High Force, but not many people make it up this far (again, you can't get here on a day walk from anywhere of any note, so this tends to be a feature reserved for those braving the Pennine Way). Lav had a 'big' slip on a rock and ended up with half of her body submerged under water! Steve turned round after hearing her cries for help and as he turned round saw her dripping - her hair,
her face, her t-shirt and her trousers - unfortunately she also immersed one of our cameras in the process (and that came out dripping too!) Luckily both Lav and the camera were fortunately unharmed! We lingered sometime in amazement at the wonder of the waterfall, and then headed up over even more remote moorland, continuing westwards into our penultimate county of Cumbria.
This long tramp across upland moorland scenery, which passes by supposedly the most remote farm in England (its certainly the only sign of any civilisation en route, served only by a farm track - the rest of the terrain probably looked much the same a thousand years ago), eventually ends in the most dramatic and rewarding way possible. The path suddenly emerges right at the head of "High Cup Nick" - an enormous and perfectly formed u-shaped valley, seemingly big enough to house a small city yet hidden from sight up in the Pennines - it sprawls dramatically forth below you towards the Vale of Eden to the west. Its only at High Cup Nick, and the ensuing walk along its northerly flank that that you fully appreciate how high you are...the views are superb even on
a hazy day and in the distance on the far side of the Vale of Eden we could see the rising peaks of the Cumbrian mountains in our treasured Lake District. The Vale of Eden separates the Lakeland mountains to the west from the Pennine mountains in the east, and in fact houses the M6 - you can't really see anything from the M6 from memory though, with features such as High Cup Nick hidden by the Pennine foothills - but up here you seem to be able to see everything! Its moments like this that you feel very lucky, and it makes the Pennine Way well worthwhile!
As we descended, the scenery became more and more attractive - rolling green fields, streams, spring flowers, and of course the usual sheep with countless young lambs playing in the early evening sunshine. On reaching the pretty village of Dufton, with the perfectly formed Dufton Fell above it, we found our B&B, Hall Croft, at the far end of the village. If the Langdon Beck Hotel had been a disappointment, then Hall Croft could not have been more different. Tea and cake was served on arrival, and our hosts, Ray and
Frei, could not have been more hospitable. They've achieved a perfect balance between grandeur and cosiness at Hall Croft, and you just feel so at home as you enjoy splendid views of the northern Pennine fells to the east.
It was one of those days where everything seemed to go right...the food at the delightful local pub was simply superb - they've managed to lure a very good chef. A lady had overheard us talking about the Pennine Way in the pub's restaurant and came over. She told us of her adventures along the Pennine Way back in 1975!!! We were so impressed to have met someone who hiked the Pennine Way in 1975 (the year of Steve's birth).
Happily to bed...with only 109 miles to go!
If you would like to support our fundraising effort, please go to www.ectopic.org.uk/fundraising/?p=46. Thank you very much for your support and messages. Lavinia and Steve.
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Sharon Dufton edmundson
non-member comment
Dufton
I have been tracing my family history, Dufton, and came upon your blog. The trip you took sounds so fantastic! Just wish I were in the UK to do it also, maybe someday I can make the trip. Until then I will have to read about it in lovely blogs like yours. Safe travels!