Lake Baikal in slow season...

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So I went to Listvyanka yesterday and spent a good 3 hours walking around searching for accommodation. It seemed like it was a ghost town. I was the only tourist in sight and all the suggested accommodations in the Lonely Planet were closed or out of sight. This 60 year old Russian man stopped his van as I was reading the only sign in the town with English (which was advertising a shop and rooms) and said to me: "This is my sign, stay my rooms" Then pointed up the hill, so I was thinking this looks hopeful and walked up the hill. To say the least the area was not tourist friendly. I found his shop, but the woman in it pointed me further up the hill away from the lake. There were only shanties in sight, so I headed back to town. Then the man tracks me down again and leads me to some shady apartments (that I had early commented to myself should be torn down) and gets his son on this cell who told me I could stay on his dad's pull out couch!! OH MY! I said thank you, but no, and returned to town pronto. I know that homestays are common in this area, but a nice old lady is one thing, an old man offering me his pullout couch is quite another. So I returned to Irkutsk and stayed another night at the pricey hostel ($50 for 2 nights!!! $8 for a load of laundry!!). While in Listvyanka I went to the market and tried the local specialty: omul (a cousin of salmon, which only exists in Lake Baikal and some lake in the Netherlands) It was quite delicious and I met 2 Russians who couldn't speak English, but we were able to have an hour conversation anyway. The guy gave me his number and said if I have problem in Russia to call him...and gave me 2 Bounty bars for the road. Just when things seem difficult, kind people show up and make it seem better. When I was trying to take some pictures of me by the lake some local drunks came and started yelling something and basically chased me away...never a dull moment.

Today I returned to Lake Baikal with a Canadian guy I met at the hostel. The experience was much better because I had company, someone to take my pic, and the drunks left me alone.
On the way back, a tire blew and our van skidded out of control, all was well in the end though. I made it out alive.
Scott (Canadian) and I will stay at the train station dorms, which charge by the hour so we are in a net cafe trying to waste some time so that it will be cheaper..oh budget travelling!
Tomorrow to Tomsk where I will meet my new Russian friend that I met on the train from Beijing!

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Comments

[Kristen]

Well, it is reassuring to know that a nice person or 2 can be found in all corners of the world! Keep the updates coming! I'm always pleasantly surprised when a new email arrives! You're really on top of this blog thing!! Take care!! xoxo

[markandshelbywhipp]

Beware of old men and drunks on beach
Hi Erin, Glad to hear that you are feeling better. You are right to stay away from that old man. It is better to be cautious. It was nice that you met a Canadian to see things with. You will have many new friends by the time your travels are over. You sure have had excitement on your travels, first nearly falling in manhole, and then the tire blowing with a near wipeout. I am so glad you are safe Erin. Today I was raking and doing yardwork. Dad was discing the field across the road. The darn blackfly are starting to come out this afternoon. Friday is Laura's birthday and we are going there for a barbeque. We have enjoyed your travel comments. Take care. Love Dad and Mom XXXXOOOO

[Artyom]

Erin, good luck to you!
Such a brave girl to travel all around the world all alone! Everyone she met in Tomsk asked me sth like: "Does she travel alone?? It cannot be true!" :) Good luck to you Erin, looking forward to hearing from you soon on your blog!