Penang: First Taste of Malaysia

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If Penang is our first bite into the meal that is Malaysia, then so far, dinner has started nicely! A little bit sweet, a little bit spicy, and overall tasting great!

Ok, enough of the food analogy. I think my brain has formulated that one because as I write we are currently hungrily anticipating a bite to eat in a beach cafe on the beautiful Perhentian Kecil. Who knows when this entry will get published, we will probably be in Cairns by then! (Stop press: actually I am typing this up in Brisbane!). Apologies for that, I have been a little (a lot!) behind over the last few weeks, but rest assured everything is being documented as we go along.

Paul and I had a most enjoyable 3 night stint in Penang, Georgetown to be precise. Despite arriving later than expected we had no trouble finding accommodation. The 'Banana Guesthouse' boasted very affordable rooms with the added bonus of free wireless internet, so checking in was a no brainer! After a quick bite to eat, and a much needed nights sleep, we headed out the next morning to explore the city. Once we had, had our customary walk round to get our bearings we found ourselves walking towards what appeared the center of town. Before we knew it we were entering a large shopping mall, which was no bad thing. We have come to learn that shopping malls are a great way to get a glimpse of 21st century local life, while still providing enough entertainment to wile away a good few hours. Such was the case here. What we found immediately noticeable in the malls we have visited in Asia, espeically this one in Penang, is the quality of the small, independant clothes shops. They put the same-same chain stores back at home to shame. It seems the Asians really have their finger on the fashion pulse! While looking around, we were also bombarded with leaflets for hair salons. It appeared the hair salons were all trying to undercut each other (pun intended). For as little as 2 quid they were offering professional hair design, wash, cut and dry. Far better value than the 9 (no pound sign!) pound short back and sides I am used to, and in hindsight, I should have took up one of the offers. It could be said I am beginning to harbour a bit of a mop on my head! We ate cheaply and heartily at the local food court before commencing another tour of the shops. After a good few hours of browsing, eating, and playing the odd arcade game we decided it was probably time to do something a bit more cultured!

Depending on which guidebook/taxi driver you listen to, the Kek Lok Si temple in Georgetown is either the biggest Buddhist temple in Malaysia, or the biggest Buddhist temple in South Asia. Either way, it is pretty sizeable - and it was to be our next destination. Although no doubt large, it didn't strike us as ornate as the temples we saw in Thailand and Laos. Whether this is because it is a Chinese style temple (a slightly different form of Buddhism) I'm not sure. It seemed to contain more tacky giftshops than articles of religious significance.

Perhaps the most satisfying aspect of the day came in the form of our transport back from the temple. After paying a pretty extortionate taxi fare on the way, it was with great delight we were able to chase down, and board a public bus for the journey back to the guesthouse. Thus paying a tenth of the money we had paid for the outward journey. A note on the bus if I may - it was absolutely spotless, brand new, and proof if any was needed that in terms of infrastructure and public services, Malaysia is far ahead of Thailand. Another interesting aspect was that all the seats were plastic (but still very comfortable). Surely this is a much better solution than the dirt magnets that are cushioned seats as found on the buses back home? It also means the interior of the bus can just be hosed down when needed. Travel West Midlands take note!

That night, as has become almost routine, we went for something to eat in anticipation of the Saturday televised football to come later in the evening. We asked the owner of our guesthouse for any tips regarding places to eat. We were directed to a Muslim tandoori restaurant just down the road - Kapitans. It was spectacularly good. For little over a pound were chicken tandoori sets - comprising of a large piece of tandoori chicken, a curry, mixed salad, a variety of sauces and a huge naan bread, all presented on a tin tray with sections for each item. Without doubt the best value meal we have eated on the trip so far. It goes without saying that we ate there the following night also! We returned to the guesthouse to thoroughly enjoy watching Arsenal come back from 2 behind to beat Bolton. As the Wolves match against Charlton was live on Sky in the UK we then headed to the computers to see if we could stream it over the internet. The result was an extremely choppy feed that made it nigh-on-impossible to tell if a goal had been scored or not. Every time the ball moved into the final third it seemed to decide it needed to buffer. The only clue we had as to what was happening would be the jittery freeze frames that would seem to load after the event. It was however extremely sweet to see a sudden image of the Wolves players celebrating in the 94th minute having snatched the win. Although we did leave the night attendant at the guesthouse slightly bemused as to why we suddenly exploded into celebration, sitting in front of a computer screen, in the lobby at 3am! After the excitement had worn off we were off to bed, thankful for the first time in a while that there was no need to get up early the following morning.

When we finally rose the next day we set out towards the Komkat (sp?) tower - the tallest building on the Georgetown skyline. We paid the moderate fee to visit the viewing deck on the top floor and boarded the express lift. Once at the top we took in the fabulous views of Georgetown and beyond. It was a shame the decor at the top of the tower didn't match the views it provided - the interior certainly needed a refurbishment. After completing the 360 degree lap of the tower, and enjoring our ONE complimentary drink in the cafe Paul and I still had much of the day still to fill. We therefore did what came natueally to us - went back to the nearby shopping mall - more specifically the arcade!

Amusement arcades in Asia are a sight to behold. Far more advanced than arcades at home, they are an epilepsy enducing cauldron of noise, flashing lights and endorphins. A place where local children come to waste away house using their hard earned pocket money. Obviously not wanting to appear out of place, Paul and I blended right in - frittering away vital travel funds withy numerous games of Time Crisis and Gun Survivor. Well, as they say, when in Rome!

That evening we once again ate at Kapitans before settling down to watch an uninspiring Merseyside derby. An early night followed as we werre catching a bus to Kota Bharu (and onto the Perhentian islands) at the crack of dawn.

We came away from Penang delighted to have seen it. It acted as the perfect respite from beaches and islands (although yes, Penang is an island itself), and get back into exploring a city - no doubt good practice for Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. With its mix of Chinese, Malay and Western influences, it isn't difficult to see why Penang was once described as the 'Pearl of the Orient'.

I'll add pics next time.

Tom.

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Comments

[Jun-E]

It's Komtar Tower =)
Glad you enjoyed your trip in Penang, it's one of my favourite places in Malaysia! Also your post on Perhentian has made up my mind that I absolutely have to factor it in for my around-Malaysia-travels happening soon. =D I'm Malaysian by the way ;)