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Published: November 11th 2005
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Abel Tasman National Park
Would be great if there were no sandflies....pesky. Since my last post I have travelled over to the South Island of New Zealand, and have made my way almost all the way down the west coast (a change in bus company was prompted by the old company wanting me to get up a full 3 hours earlier than the new one). I stopped off for a few days in a town called Nelson, which I told was always sunny. False advertising. But at least it has (almost completely) stopped raining now!
Last week the main event was a two day trip in Abel Tasman National Park, a huge area of forest (and I do mean huge, the forests here put our paltry woods in the UK to shame; to those who enjoy a good forest stroll, let me say that I am really being pretty spoilt here) located along a stretch of coast bordering the Tasman sea. I was taken into the park by boat and deposited along with one other person, who was going in the opposite direction to me, on an almost deserted beach - the only inhabitant being one lone seal (who made a quick exit when I tried to approach to take a photo).
The first day was spent walking along a path that never strayed far from the coast, through forests and occasionally along beaches, until I reached my destination for the night, a DOC (Department of Conservation) hut at a place called Bark Cove. I occasionally went past people walking in the opposite direction, but for the best part there was a satisfying feeling of isolation. The next morning I met a group of people on the beach for a day of sea kayaking, which would take me back to my original starting point.
First, let me say that the coast is truly spectacular here - countless islands, bays, coves and beaches, huge rock formations and abundant wildlife. I enjoyed the day very much, however, the wind was up and the waves were...ah...very wavey. I was alone in the group in the overwhelming desire to spew up my breakfast. It required some moments of total focus not to be sick all over the side of the kayak. That would not have been cool.
Still, looking back, it was good times. The guide was pretty cool, and begun the day by climbing up on the front of the kayaks (there
were 3, 2 people in each) and performing the all-blacks huka. We visited some seals on a nearby island (by which time I felt a little like climbing out and swimming back to dry land, damn the guy in the back of my kayak). On the open stretches of sea, we linked the kayaks up and used a simple sail so that we could have a rest. It was all very pleasant, not that I will ever set foot in a sea-kayak again.
I went on to a place called Punakaiki, where there was some nice walking and some impressive coastal rock formations called Pancake Rocks.
I am now at the Franz Josef glacier, staying in the town of the same name. Yesterday I went for a hike on this spectacular geographical formation, and enjoyed a whole day of fearing that some huge icy cliff would fall and crush me. Don't laugh. Early on in the day, whilst we looked up at the glacier from the nearby moraine (I know all the jargon), a piece of ice, perhaps 5 or 6 metres in height, just broke off and, accompanied by some impressive thundering crashes, tumbled down from the
glacier. It was a pretty impressive sight.
So we, that is myself and a group of seven others, spent the day strolling around on the glacier. It was damn cool, no pun intended. The first part was largely walking up stairs carved into the ice by the guides, holding onto ropes secured to the ice, whilst walking along narrow ledges between ominous looking crevasses. After this, and a little lunch on the ice, we entered a safer area. Equipped with crampons (spikes on shoes) and ice-axes, we explored a breathtaking landscape of cracks and cliffs, squeezing through tiny gaps between the towering sheets of ice. On the way down, we were joined for a short while by a native parrot. Cute little guy, but apparently they used to be a pest (when their numbers were greater) because they are know to gang up and peck sheep to death. Nice.
As I sit here I can look out the window and see the nearby mountains, topped with ice. Watched the sun set over them a couple of nights ago, being here didn't seem quite real.
Franz Josef itself is a small collection of hotels and hostels, helicopter companies and souvenir shops. I have been to a couple of these little towns now, places that exist solely because of the nearby natural wonders. The hostel is pretty nice. I have had a lazy day today, enjoying the hostel's spa, watching a movie (Gangs of New York, still not sure what I think of it) and reading Lord of the Rings. Tomorrow I will be heading off to Wanaka, which is apparently a slightly nicer and less crazy version of Queenstown. Not sure if I will be going to Queenstown, there is too much other stuff to see, and my time in the country is running out.
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Paul K
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You feeling ok
2 in the one day , feels like xmas Glad to here you are having a good time lucky Ba%^tard its shit in norwich raining and cold . All the best Paul K ( Top bonus winner)