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Published: March 28th 2008
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I left for Istanbul last night at 8:00 and arrived this morning two and a half hours late at 9:00, which was all right with me as I have a week here. The young woman I met on the train, V, was a bit more anxious as she was meeting a friend but on the whole expected the delay.
It was exciting to pull into the same terminal that the old Orient Express did years ago. The train itself was very nice, one of the nicest cabins I've had, yet not, of course, up to Orient Express standards. I had my own cot and slept very soundly, despite being woken up twice in the middle of the night in order to show my passport and then get a Turkish visa.
The city of Istanbul has been good to me so far, although it was quite cold today, and is only expected to get colder. I found my hostel without too much trouble, and have not strayed far from the tourist area that it's located in. The location itself isn't too shady either, being right down the street from the Four Seasons Hotel. So far today I've seen Aya Sofya
and glimpsed the Blue Mosque, which I will return to tomorrow when there is more light. So far I've heard the call to prayer no less than three times, and despite the concurrent competition from various mosques find it very beautiful.
As Istanbul's most famous monument, the Aya Sofya was covered in tourists all day, and unfortunately for me there is quite a bit of reconstruction going on and so the pictures won't be of the best quality when I figure out how to upload them here. The building itself has a fascinating history: starting out in 537 AD/CE it was considered the greatest church in Christiandom until 1453, when it was converted into a mosque. A museum since 1934, the building is a fascinating mix of the ideals of both religions, with the top of the great dome being written on in Arabic, and beautiful golden mosaics of the Madonna and Child, among others, being uncovered through the on-going restoration work.
While touring Aya Sofya I ran again into V., who was free for the afternoon, and we decided after some consideration to visit the Grand Bazaar. From the little we explored I wish I had brought
an entirely empty suitcase: pottery, scarfs, teasets, textiles of all kinds, everything and then some, all at a special price for you, please, step inside my shop. I will have to go back and spend a day there...and may consider getting another bag.
The men around here are another matter. There is a seeming desperation in the air to sell something, despite the hordes of available tourists, and, failing that, to meet any available female. The English commentary and occasional kissing sounds were exasperating, if somewhat comical, as long as V. and I were traveling together. She said she didn't get it so much on her own, that it was my blond hair. Every time it would happen I would turn to her and say," seven days; I have seven days of this to look forward to." Of course, this is nothing: it will be much worse in Cairo. Such is the world.
I am also looking forward to the Turkish cuisine, which includes oh-so-many sweets, some of which I have already bought but haven't tried. There's something here called lokum, or Turkish delight, which apparently everyone else has heard of but me. So hopefully when I write
next I will be able to comment on it.
I think this week will not be too difficult, with the exception of the cold, as I have so much time and the sights are so close together for the most part. Perhaps it will warm up, but if not it will be a good excuse to make lots of stops for hot Turkish tea and perhaps take a few Turkish baths. A woman's gotta keep her strength up, you know.
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Dad
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Sounds exotic
I'm enjoying your descriptions of everything. Kinda wish I could be there, too. Please be careful, but enjoy yourself. By the way... I've also heard of Turkish Delight, but can't wait to read your description. Love, Dad