SHALOM!

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Where to start? Sometimes, plans never happen the way you expect, so I generally don't make plans because of this fact. I was supposed to be in Amman, but I am writing from Jerusalem. The flight over to Tel Aviv was uneventful...no crying babies , thank God. Of course, losing your passport and wallet 15 minutes before you're supposed to head to Dulles was an event unto itself. Yes, this happened, and yes, I found them, with the help of my two dear friends, Deanna and Maryam. I wouldn't be me if I didn't almost lose something....I lost something yesterday, but more on that later. I spoke with the passenger next to me, Johan, a Jewish man in his mid-thirties or so. I asked him questions about Israel and he obliged. He gave me his name and number and told me to call if I needed anything or had any questions.
It was so good to finally land, especially after a 28 hr. work day on top of only an hour's sleep on the 15hr. plane ride here. 3 hrs. of interrupted sleep in a 48 hr. period usually doesn't cut it. Nonetheless, I was determined and excited. Nothing was going to stop me. The weatjer was warm and it was quite sunny. My plan was to bus it into Amman, Jordan after landing in Tel Aviv. My guidebook mentioned a few methods, but I could use only one. After asking information, I realized that way was too complicated and possibly impossible. So, my only choice was to stay in Tel Aviv; not a bad place to get stuck mind you, since it is a beach town, with the Mediterranean a rock's throw away. I stood at the exit gate with that tourist look on my face, gazing at my guidebook at the exit to the airport. A pretty brunette walked up to me and asked if I needed help. Her name was Maia and she was local. I asked her how to get the hotel/hostel area. She gave me directions and her name and number. She told me to call her when I was back in the area and offered her place up. Her and her boyfriend liked to travel, so she had no problems with showing me around. Nice people here....
I took the train into Tel Aviv and after some time, found my way to the Central Bus Terminal. It's not so much fun with 75 lbs. on your back, especially if your path in unsure. The area reminded me a lot of Astoria, Queens. After fumbling around, I found the bus I needed to take to get into the correct area for backpackers. I arrived at the HaYarkon 48 Hostel, a converted school 2 blocks from the beach. The prices here were more than I expected, roughly $17 for a night's stay in a shared 2 bunk room. Of course, the weakness of the dollar was quite apparent after changing money at the airport. I met two of my roommates, but their names escape me right now; a 25 year old Jewish man from Brooklyn and a 20 yr. old Dutchman from Holland. We introduced ourselves and immediately, the vibe was set. They decided to partake in certain extracurricular activities and asked me if I minded. Of course I said no. Since my philosophy on travel is "when in Rome.....". Some of you, get your mind out of the gutter.
I also met Izzy, a Jewish man from Canada who was here for travel and a wedding. After "hanging out," we decided to join the BBQ going on the roof. It's funny, my first night in Vietnam last year began the same way, except it wasn't St. Patty's Day, as it had been last year. I met a number of people; David, a mid 40's Scot who was only supposed to stay one night and was still here 7 months later, Mandy, a mid-twentes German, a 17 yr. old girl traveling w/her father, a young American Army veteran here to join the IDF, a couple of guys from Canada and Australia...there were more, but you get the point. We sat on the roof and drank beer, swapped travel stories, spoke about politics and religion...there was a great comraderie, something I always feel when I go the backpacker route. It's really forced socialization because of the fact that we are all in such tight quarters, but its also because everyone seems to have a very patient, liberal attitude.
David, Izzy, and I began speaking about the concept of reality/illusion, perception, metaphysics. It was a deeply intense in its content. To hear shared philosophies about finding answers, to always seek, to always be "disillusioned" in order to keep knocking on doors...that was the main gist of the conversation. That may be one of my favorite reasons for travel; hearing perspectives not unlike my own from people all over the world. I'm always able to truly put my life in perspective when I leave the country. I realize that I am blessed w/many good things; friends, family, gainful employment, food, and shelter. At some point during the night, we saw news footage about a terrorost attack in Jerusalem. Two citizens w/ties to Hezbollah opened fire on a group of students at the University; 8 dead, 30 or so wounded. It was the first event of its kind in many years and wasn't pleasant news.
We spent hours on the roof before my roommates and I decided to hit the English Pub up the street. Let me just say, that was a horrible idea. My shirt didn't come off, but my belly did make an appearance a few times. I forget the bartenders names, but one of them was paying me special attention, which I didn't mind, of course. One was a twenty something from Philly, the other a California girl. Yes, the Guinness was going down smooth that night. I spent a lot more than I wanted to and also paid for it the next morning. We were woken up by management because it was past checkout time. I could've slept for the entire afternoon. However, I had to be on my way. I saw Mandy downstairs and she asked me if I wanted to goto Jerusalem with her. I processed the question and told her I would. So much for Amman. With the slaying of students the night before, others suggested that maybe it wasn't a good idea. My thinking was that it wouldn't happen again, especially with the raised level of security. I enjoyed my limited time in Tel Aviv. It had a very European atmosphere about it. It's definitely a party city, which made the decision to leave easier, since I was traveling more for some sort of rebirth, rather than a slow death. Since I fly out of there, I will be back.
Mandy and I took a cab to the bus station and bought our tickets to Jerusalem. Ninety minutes later, we were there (here). There was a tensity in the air, but I was immune to it. Maybe because of the prior night's activites, but for whatever reason, I had no expectations. Jerusalem, home to "three of the greatest monotheistic religions." It was mored modern than I expected. Shops, cafes, etc. line the city streets. Of course, there's more to the city than my first impression. Mandy and I decided to grab lunch after checking in to the Jerusalem Hostel, since I hadn't eaten since the night before. We ate at a cafe down the street and then walked to the Old City, an ancient and holy place housing structures important to all three religions: the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Western Wall, and the Dome of the Rock. This walled city is a labyrinth. Shops selling anything from souvenir t-shirts to jewelry and hookas line the entire outer portion of the city. The city itself is divided into 4 quarters: The Jewish Quarter, the Christian Quarter, the Muslim Quarter, and the Armenian Quarter. Our first major stop was the Western Wall in the Jewish Quarter, the most important Jewish shrine for the Jewish faith. I walked up to the wall after putting on a paper kippa and could feel the presence of something indescribable. The hairs on the back of my neck stood at attention as I slowly approached. I put my hand on the wall and said a prayer before exiting. I don't know how to describe the feeling, but there was a spiritual presence in and around the area.
We stopped next at the Christian Quarter, specifically ther Church of the Holy Sepulchre, arguably the holiest CHristian site in all the world. It is said that Jesus was crucified, died, and raised from the dead here. It was built 300 years after his death by Helena, the mother of Emperor Constantine. There was a mass of tourists here, walking every which way, adding to the noise pollution already present. We were privy to religious ceremonies, hymns, and organ music while we were inside. It was impressive, to say the least. I can't help but to imagine what the Church would be like without the throngs of curious onlookers. The masses definitely take away from the experience. We stayed for quite a while, sitting and listening to the chanting, while trying to ignore the other tourists there. I'm getting used to the police presence here; male and female soldiers carrying assault rifles on every other corner.
I wanted to see the City of David, the oldest city in Jerusalem, but it was already getting late after our cup of Turkish coffee just inside Jaffa Gate, where we had entered. 15 shekels was quite high (over $4). Actually, everything in Israel seems quite ezpensive, comparable to many Western cities. We headed back to our hostel where we met others staying in our room; a kid from Michigan, one from Australia, and a crazy, white bearded 50 pr 60 something Dane that apprently likes to sleep in the nude...great. I finally showered for the first time in three days, went into the kitchen. and socialized with some of my dormmates.
Because it is officially Shabat (Sabbath), many things will be shut down tomorrow, including local Jewish buslines. I've decided to stay another night and see as much of Jerusalem as I can. On Sunday, I plan to head down South to Eilat where I will cross over to Jordan. My other option is to head further South and cross into the beach town of Aqaba, on the Jordanian side. I'm not sure what the next few days will bring, but I can't wait. By the way. I lost my jacket at the English Bar. the one I just purchased. Again, I wouldn't be me if something didn't happen.

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Photos

Tel Aviv
View from my balcony...

My roomies
No he isn't staring at the other's ass, but it sure looks like it!

The English Bar...
where all hell broke loose/

On our way to the Old City....
Staring at Jaffa Gate.

The Western Wall
see me praying?

Comments

[Mona]

So great to hear from you!
Eric, it looks like you are seeing some amazing things so far! I'm jealous! What a wonderful experience! Travel safe and keep sending updates! p.s. I ALWAYS lose things when I travel too. I lost so many things in S. America...so don't feel bad! :)