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Published: February 9th 2008
Leaving Zambia, we headed off to Malawi, known as the "warm heart of Africa" due to the friendliness of its people. With almost a quarter of the country being covered by Lake Malawi, the country's population is largely clustered around the shores of the lake.
Our first two nights in Malawi were spent at a place called Kande Beach, which to be honest, wasn't that impressive. The lake shore was nice, even though it did rain a bit (though nothing like the rain we experienced in Zambia) and I did get to go scuba diving, but the big drawback was the village that surrounded the campsite.
Unfortunately, the locals had become very dependent on the tourist trade and the area had lost much of it's authenticity. As soon as you stepped out of the gates, you were immediately accosted by guys trying to sell you wood carvings, paintings, key rings and all manner of other trinkets. They weren't forceful or aggressive and some of them were great fun - with names like Tom Cruise, Julius Ceasar (Chief's nephew), Black William and Life Goes On - but, it was clear that they had been corrupted by too much time around
Kande Beach Boys
These guys had very inventive names - Tom Cruise, Julius Ceasar, Life Goes On....and boy could they sell.tourists. Nevertheless, we did spend some time visiting the village and got to see the local hospital, market and school which was a lot of fun.
While walking through the main market, a little boy - Fumba, came up and started holding Janice's hand and walking along with her - very cute. Anyway, he walked with us all the way to the school where we met with the Principal and he gave us some information on how the children get their education. The conditions for both students and teachers are pretty trying - some classes have up to 160 kids for one teacher!! Primary school is free and covered by the government, but finishes once a child reaches 10 or 11; after that they have to go to another school which is costly and out of reach of most. We were then told we had an opportunity to sponsor a child's education and rushed back out to the playground to find Fumba and set things up! A couple of hours later we met for a second time with the Principal and handed over enough for a year's worth of tuition and fees - we are yet to receive a
Waterpump, Kande Village
The village at Kande beach has four water pumps from which the town's population has to draw water for all their day-to-day needs. progress report, so hopefully the money is being spent as intended (though you never know!!)
That evening we had dinner in the village and one of our party succeeded in bringing down the house...literally!! After dinner we were outside watching the local children sing and dance and he lent against the wall of the building we had eaten in and the whole thing caved in!! We were very glad that it hadn't happened while we were all in there.
Our next stop enroute to Tanzania was the small beach community of Mdokera on the shores of Lake Malawi. Along the way, we stopped at a local market and haggled for wood carvings, jewellery and other gifts before stopping by the roadside for lunch in the middle of the countryside. While stopped, we wandered off for a walk and began talking to a tobacco farmer, Maxwell, that was tending his crop close by where we had parked the overland truck. It was great to chat with someone and find out a bit about how they live in a "real" (ie. not touristy) way. In the same area, I also came across a very shy but curious young girl who
Me and Fumba
He's such a cutie...!! I spotted peering at us from behind some trees across the road. After a few attempts to communicate with her, I managed to get her to agree to let me take her photo after which she became increasingly curious and friendly until I finally managed to get her to smile in a picture.
Then it was off to Mdokera Beach - this place was fantastic and was easily the best experience we had of local interaction in Africa. The propietor of the campsite, Mr Mdokera, had only set it up a few years ago and the people of the nearby village had not yet let their way of life be too impacted by the presence of tourists. The local men and women still fish the waters of the lake as their primary means of food production and the children all get involved in the preparation and repair of nets, fishing and the cleaning and cooking of the days catch. It was a real pleasure to walk up and down the beach before dawn and at dusk and watch them go about their daily routine.
Unfortunately we only had one night in this great place - I could easily
Net Repairs
The village on the shores of Mdokera Beach still maintains a very traditional way of life...it was a pleasure to see. have stayed several more days - in addition to the village and the campsite the water and surf was great for swimming!! As we were leaving for Chitimba, our first stop in Tanzania, Mdokera organized an impromptu drumming, singing and dancing display - really good and the most genuine we had seen so far.
Once we cross the border into Tanzania, our African adventure will be two thirds complete - hopefully the best is still to come as the rest of the trip will be spent in Zanzibar, Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater!!
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Wild Will
non-member comment
Great exploring
You guys are in the zone. You certainly know how to make everyone around you comfortable. Staying in the now is soooo important. Looking great and enjoying the updates. Thanks much. Will and young son Landen Vancouver, BC Canada