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Published: January 1st 2008
Happy New Year! We hope everyone had a great and safe New Years! I have to say, ours was pretty hard to beat, but I´ll get into that later.
Last time I wrote we were headed out on a 4 day hike up to the Hielo Azul and through a pass in the mountains that make the Chile border. I´m happy to say that we survived, but at times it was a little touchy! First of all, for anyone who buys the Lonley Planet Trekking in Patagonia book, know that it lies! I´m not in the best shape right now but I should be able to complete the "easy" trekk with little difficulty. . . . this was not the case!
Day 1 of the trekk was great. It was waffle day, so of course we had to get our respective waffles and chicken sandwiches. This was after a 3 hour packing ordeal. After camping in the same campground for 18 days (we didn´t realize we had been there that long!) our stuff was everywhere and some how we managed to collect A LOT more stuff! Luckily we were able to leave everything we didn´t need for the hike
with the camp hosts, otherwise there is no way we would have made it. So, after eating waffles we had a choice to make. We could walk up the 6km hot dusty road to the trail head or we could hire a taxi. It was about 100 degrees outside, and we had 3 full days of hiking ahead of us so we opted for the taxi. . . . it was a very good move on our part!
We got dropped off at the trail head and only had to walk about 3km to the campsite that serves as the official starting point for the trekk. After setting up camp we went to the restaurant where they served cheap beer and the best pizza we have had on this trip. At this point Matt said he had changed his mind about trekking (see previous blog by Matt). Little did he know what was planned for the next 3 days!
The start of day 2 really got things going! The Indiana Jones bridge we had to cross in the first 10 mins should have served as a warming for what was ahead. The book said we would ascend about
1000m (about 3000 ft) and hike about 12 km. This didn´t sound too bad! Little did we know that this 1000m was going to be straight up, FOREVER! The first half of the hike was soooooo hot that we were dripping with sweat by the time we got there, but by the time we reached the base of the glacier at the first refugo the weather was really starting to change. The hike only took us about 3.5 hrs but we were exhausted and starving by the time we arrived. We set up camp, started a fire, and made chicken soup for lunch as the rest of the hikers started to trickle in. It started to get a little chilly so we went inside to play cards and sample the "home-brewed beer". I didn´t like it but Matt thought it was ok. I tasted more like watered down wine than beer. . . .definately not up to Portland standards. After a few hours of relaxing we got recruited to play in a pick-up soccer match, which we were very reluctant to join. One, because our legs were dead, and two, as Matt puts it, "Futból is an international party that
One at a time!
Another scary bridge!everyone is invited to except the Americans!" We agreed to play and actually had a great time! One of the girls we met on the hike took some great pictures that we should be getting soon. If nothing else, the view from the field can´t be beat.
After the game we all went inside for a hearty meal of homemade stew! The food at the refugos was amazing! This is definately something that is lacking in the hiking scene in the states. We met some great people on the hike. There were two couples from Germany and two couples from Montana that we talked with quite a bit. At least we were able to simpathize with eachother! Then it was off to a cold night in the tent before day 3.
Intially we wanted to climb to the lookout over the glacier, however the weather thought otherwise. The morning was cold and rainy and there wouldn´t have been much of a view. Instead we elected to eat oatmeal and wait inside to see if the weather would clear up. . . which it didn´t. While we were waiting the 2 couples from Montana returned from the acent and
Big holes the whole way!
The scary part was that you know someone stepped on that board when it broke! I´m so glad it wasn´t me! none of their testimonials could convience us that climbing the mountian was a good idea. All they said is it was really steep, freezing cold, and rainy. . . not really my thing. After talking with them we decided to start hiking to the next refugo.
We thought this day would be easier because it was all down hill. Unfortunately, the first 30 mins of this hike was straight up. . . . no really, STRAIGHT UP! We were so glad we decided not to hike to the look out. After this the trail was flat for about 20 mins before we started our decent. Apparently they don´t believe in switch-backs in Argentina because this mountain was straight down. There were times where we literally had to side and slide down rocks, and you have to remember this is all being done with our big packs on! We were exhausted by the times we got to the river. Lucky for Matt he saw some trout while we were crossing the river, for which he later came back to give them "Sore Mouths". The last 15 mins of the hike was up again, this time over rickety wooden ladders and
gorges, but we finally made it.
At the second refugo we opted to stay in the dorm loft, and we are soooooooo glad we did! It poured rain all night while we were in our warm, dry lodge. The people who camped didn´t look nearly as happy the next morning. We spent the night at the refugo playing cards and dominos, drinking wine, and eating a hearty rice and sausage dinner! I think they provide this comforts so you forget everything you went through just hours earlier.
Day 4 (Last Day!) was also my birthday! I told Matt all I wanted was for him to carry my pack out, this didn´t happen 😞 Luckily the last day was easier than the previous two, but still not a walk in the park. Most of the hike was on a dirt road but the did manage to make the last 30 mins of the hike straight up, again! We survived (with very sore legs) and have some great pictures (yes, we still have this camera!)
We took a taxi back to El Bolson and our awesome driver brought us to the great little hostel we are staying at now.
We are literally staying in an older couples home. . . . very comfortable! We cleaned up, did laundry and then went out to a nice dinner of lamb and steak for my birthday! We ran into 4 couple from the hike while we were out, El Bolson is a very small town! Oh, and we went to the Martin Sheffield restaurant where the waitress told us about the Dinsosaur he claimed to see in one of the lakes around here! Apparently it was huge event that lead to multiple expeditions from the states and really put Patagonia on the map. Matt was very excited about this story!
New Years Eve here was amazing! The weather was a little chilly so we spent the afternoon watching bad movies and nursing our sore legs. Matt is walking like an 80 year old man. . . it´s not good. The older man who owns the house, who is probably close to 80, kept telling Matt he was younger than him yesterday! The couple invited us to have dinner with them and their sons. One of their sons is a chef in town and he was preparing a traditional Agentina asado (BBQ).
We had an amazing feast of beef, lamb (the best I have ever had), churizo, blood sausage, deviled eggs, potato salad, greens, tomatoes, olives, mushrooms, sauteed onions, brochetta, chips, bread, fruit, wine, and beer! We ate so much but it was sooooooooooo good! Definately better than any restaurant! There were about 15 of us around a table laughing, eating, and enjoying the Mendoza wines! Really great night! Oh, but there was a guys from Isreal who came late who was very strange. . . . He didn´t eat any of the meat which he said was because he didn´t try new things. What!?! He literally said that he would eat a hotdog, but he wouldn´t try the lamb because he had never had it before! Are you kidding me! Oh, and he didn´t drink so he was in bed around 12:30 while the rest of us were having a good time! Very strange!
Agentina´s schedule is very different from the US. It is very "un-cool" to get to a club before 2:00am. The couldn´t understand why our clubs close at that time. So, we hung out on the balcony visiting after we toasted the New Year, and then left
for a local bar at 2:00a. The bar was very strange, most of the people there were between 15-20, I even felt old there. We stayed and visited with one of the sons for a few hours and were able to learn more about the area and culture. Aparantly there are gnomes that live in the hills you can go talk to and the aliens land here all the time. I´m not sure if we will ever leave now because Matt is going to find them! At about 3:30a we couldn´t take anymore (American are no fun!) and we finally turned it in. Definately a New Years celebration for the books!
Today is our last day in El Bolson, we think. We are going to head to Esquel tomorrow and then work our way south for the rest of the month. We get to find the penguins soon!
We hope you all have a great holiday and will keep you updated soon!
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Rebecca
non-member comment
Happy Belated birthday!
I'd like to know how many other people could say they spent their 24th birthday hiking around Argentina? Happy Birthday Elyse!Sorry it's two days late! I miss you! Hope you guys are being safe! *hugs*