Can someone tell me where is the Axis of Evil?

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Esfahan was our next destination after Shiraz. They say this is the jewel in this country; and I would have to agree. The hotel we stayed in (Abbasi Hotel) was a beautifully restored caravanserai. Over the next couple of days we took in the sights which were mainly located near the Imam Square.

Then it was onto the capital Tehran for our last day of the tour, which we spent visiting 3 museums - Carpet Museum (superb); National Museum of Iran (great exhibits, especially from Persepolis); and the National Jewels Museum (more security than anywhere else; no bags or cameras allowed; glittering jewels everywhere which I personally didn't find interesting and quite gaudy).

You can't help feeling that the general populace like the ruling mullahs a whole lot less than the international community. They just want to be left in peace to raise their families just like everyone else. Certainly there are a lot of anti-American slogans and you see flag-burning demonstrations on TV sometimes, but I never felt in any way unsafe. The hospitality that we have received has been wonderful. Given our efforts to look like the locals in our black manteaus and robes, I noticed we were approached more readily than other tourists. When any of our group were exploring or taking a breather on their own or in a small group, they would invariably be surrounded by locals curious as to our origins, our thoughts on their country, and why we wanted to visit the "Axis of Evil". We told them they should never believe everything they read in the press. There is no restriction on American tourists getting a visa to Iran; we heard several Yankee accents in other tour groups.

I have to say I really loved visiting Iran, and will definitely be back to see the parts that I missed. In particular I've been told of some great hiking trails in the mountains which pass nomadic villages, so if there are any takers for future trips......

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Photos

Not exactly subtle...
There were quite a few of these slogans around the country - this one was in Tehran.

Chehel Sotun Palace, Esfahan
Superb wooden detailing and columns on the terrace leading into the Palace.

Frescoe
One of the many wonderful 17th century frescoes inside the Chehel Sotun Palace. This one depicts Nader Shah doing battle with Sultan Mahmud in India.

Another restored frescoe
Shah Tahmasp entertaining the Indian prince Humayan with musicians and dancing girls

Imam Square
View from the Ali Qapu Palace looking towards the Imam Mosque

Ali Qapu Palace
The music room at the top of this six-storey Palace which was built at the end of the 16th century by Shah Abbas I.

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque
This mosque is located on the eastern side of Imam Square and was built in the early 17th century. Amazing interior tilework and mosaics.

Peacock Tail
Amazing trick of light on the ceiling dome of the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque which looks like a peacock's tail, and which you can only get from this particular angle.

Typical lunch
We had been eating so much food and given the heat, the group decided to stick to simple soup and salads for lunch followed by fruits and tea.

Imam Mosque
Stunning blue-tiled mosaic entrance portal to the Imam Mosque.

Bazar-e Bozorg
One of the bazaar entrances near the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque

Icy delights
Satisfied my sweet-tooth craving with Phaludeh (vermicelli with rosewater) and saffron ice-cream.

Chubi Bridge
Nearly 150 metres long with 21 arches, built in 1665

Si-o-Seh Bridge
298-metre long bridge with 33 arches completed in 1602

Abbasi Hotel
The inner courtyard of our beautiful hotel in Esfahan which used to be a caravanserai

Jameh Mosque
This had to be one of my favourite mosques with its fantastic vaulted brick domes and pillars in the Prayer Hall.

Comments

[valeriavine]

on the road again
Even though you're already well into your journey I just wanted to say it's good to see you on the road again! I can't believe it's been over a year since I stopped receiving your travelblogs that I had so grown accustomed to reading during your mammoth journey. Happy travels!

[MaryJayne]

The Bazaar Shopkeeper photograph is outstanding! Truly beautiful.