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Published: November 4th 2007
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Ancient & Modern
A chinese style temple and a modern building in the background near Saphon Thaksin Skytrain station Sunday, November 4 2007, Bangkok, Thailand
Here I am, a week into it, in Bangkok, Thailand. Adjusting came fairly quick. In some ways it’s been easy, other things are difficult but not overwhelming. Bangkok is a very modern city that has high rises, advanced Internet infrastructure, and alternative transportation. However, much of the city is still connected to its past; the river provides transportation and there are many old buildings and temples. Thailand was never colonized and has remained a significant influence in Southeast Asia and there is evidence that this is a materially prosperous time for many Thais. The high-rise buildings here are often unconventional decadent modern structures. They are either futuristic, or they pay homage to historical styles both European and Asian. Also, shopping centers are modern and full of all the familiar trademarks you would find in Seattle, New York, Hong Kong, or London. Thais have access to a wide variety of products - both local and imported (maybe reimported).
Since I was here in 2001, Bangkok has “cleaned up” quite a bit. There’s not as much garbage on the streets and there are new modern transportation facilities like the Airport, an expanded BTS Skytrain, and
Temple & Dome
A feature from Wat Pho with the dome of a skyscraper in the background. the MRTA “Metro” subway. However, there seems to be even more automobile traffic with exhaust and noise. The ubiquitous Tuk-Tuks (3 wheel motorcycle cabs) are still here, but there are more regular taxis. I heard that the authorities are trying to phase out Tuk-Tuks.
After about 20 hours (give or take) in transit I arrived around midnight local time. It was not difficult to navigate out of the modern heavily air-conditioned airport into the hot night air where I found the taxi stand just outside. I would have preferred to take the express shuttle bus or a local transit bus into the city, but the last shuttle bus, as far as I knew, was already done and I was not able to figure out which transit bus would get me where I needed to go. It’s a good thing I didn’t use the busses. The reality of where I needed to go and where I envisioned it were two different things. Fortunately, I had a map print-out my hosts sent me that I showed to the taxi driver. Amazingly, the driver found it. Every time I show this map to someone, they look at it, discuss it at length,
BTS
Bangkok Transit System: Siam Station and are still unsure how to get there, even though it’s all written in Thai. The actual drive into the city was uneventful. Of course, what my hosts told me about the taxi fair and what it actually was were different. It seems in Bangkok, many things change often. I’m not surprised that the inaccuracy of maps of the city is because of this constant flux.
The city is in perpetual construction. All over the city, old buildings are being torn down and new ones are erected full of steel and cement, and there are new freeways and expressways. Something about the location of the city seems to have an elevated process of entropy. It’s visible on dock pilings in the river that runs through the city, on the old Wats (Buddhist temples) and other buildings, and the streets and sidewalks. Maybe it’s the combination of a hot humid climate and the pollution from so many cars and so much industry. The people seem to be in a perpetual cycle to try to maintain the city’s modernity. The impermanence of things manifests very visibly yet people constantly rebuild and repaint. Change is definitely the constant. It’s a dance between
Siam Shopping District
Paragon Shopping Center people’s desires for new things and the earth’s processes of reclaiming it. Isn’t that how it is everywhere? In Bangkok, it’s accelerated therefore highly visible.
I’m working on the 3rd International Conference on Gross National Happiness. The conference begins in just under three weeks and there is quite a lot left to do. Everything seems on track, yet it seems there are a few areas for potential failures. I don’t know how to describe the intricacies of the project, but I’m sure those of you involved in any project know the difficulties of organizing a complex process. As long as things are done step by step the project will get done. Even if all steps aren’t completed, something still happens. The problem here is there are so many steps to climb, by to few people, though the conference will occur and no one outside of the conference team will know if there were mistakes.
Being a native English speaker is both my privilege and my obstacle. It’s my privilege, because all work meetings occur in English and much of the conference will be presented in English. After European colonialism, world politics and economics have elevated English as a
Chao Phraya Entropy 1
This building along the Chao Phraya is scheduled to be replaced by a new one. There are families still living here. language of world commerce and political discourse. It is a common language that is actively taught in schools in Asia and elsewhere. The organizational staff of the conference are Thai, Dutch, Czech, and American and the participants of the conference will come from Thailand, Bhutan, Burma, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia, India, Nepal, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, China, Korea, Japan, Singapore, Taiwan, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, US, Sweden, France, Romania, UK, Germany, Portugal, Russia, Spain, and elsewhere. Statistically, there will mostly be Thais at the conference and, based on a majority, the conference should be in Thai. However, considering the difficulties of getting everyone up to speed in Thai, it seems de facto the conference will mostly be in English, though I’m sure there will be many sessions in other languages.
Since English is the working language of the conference I am privileged to understand what is conveyed in the meetings and I will have native-speaker access to the common language of the conference. Also, I am the only native English speaker on the organizing team, so I edit the conference program and other materials. My first project was to write an article for submission to The Nation- an
Chao Phraya Entropy 2
Dilapidated building on the Chao Phraya River. English language daily in Thailand (not the progressive magazine).
Speaking English is my obstacle, because my daily interaction with most Thais is limited. I can usually get by all right and most Thais are fairly tolerant of my ineptitude. In most situations, I’m able to find someone who speaks enough English to help me out. I just don’t get things done immediately. It’s pretty much a handicap. I have difficulty in ordering food from street vendors or trying to find the right bus, but so far I haven’t been in trouble.
The people I work with are very friendly and helpful. When we go to lunch, they help me order food and it’s difficult for me to get them to not pay for my food. It seems like it’s part of their dignity. We get to laugh a lot in the office and most everyone is good humored. The office is fairly relaxed and people can take a break or eat whenever they want. People usually arrive in the morning on their own schedule with an understanding that traffic or other concerns happen.
The office is part of a book publishing company founded by Sulak Sivaraksa a recipient of the Right Livelihood Award
Right Livlihood Award. Sulak is a proponent of engaged Buddhism - where Buddhists actively practice and engage in the alleviation of the suffering of others. Downstairs there is a bookstore called Suksit Siam located at 113-115 Th Fuang Nakhon (Th refers to Thanon “street”) in the old city near the Grand Palace and Th Kao San that sells progressive Thai books as well as a few in other languages. The shop is also a coffee shop and sells handicrafts made by people from different regions of Thailand. There are also plans to set up a distribution point for CSAs (Community Sustained Agriculture). For more info about Sulak and the projects his foundation supports you can visit his website:
Sulak Sivaraksa.
I have more observations, but perhaps this is already too long. I’ll send another update later.
Diaw joe kan ná (see you soon).
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Ashaman Gray
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Not too long, thanks for the thoroughness. Looking forward to more.