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Published: October 31st 2007
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The Track
The 'little' track for locals up Namsan Day 1 proper Seoul and I had the bright idea to take a "stroll" up Namsan. Namsan is a big and beautiful (did I mention big) mountain in the middle of downtown Seoul upon which sits the jewel of the South Korean tourist trade the N'Seoul Tower.
Departing from my Youth Hostel I took one of the many paths that crisscross this mountain, following the wooden lined steps and rope handrails (in places) to find my way, by korean map instructions alone. Naturally this meant that upon hitting the main "hiking trail" I turned right towards the tower I could see far, far above me. This little hiking trail is effectively a 2 lane motorway which has a nice hard bitumen surface on one side and a green, soft, ankle protecting rubber like surface on the other snaking the entire way up the Mountain.
The trail is full of locals taking a stroll up the mountain. The dress code varies, pretty much anything from traditional exercise gear to the full corporate suit to a nice set of heels. My personal favourite was the old fellow with his walker - a very slow process and almost painful to watch.
Wa-Ryong-Myo Shrine
Wa-Ryong-Myo Shrine I kept looking for another way up, but eventually came to the Wa-Ryong-Myo Shrine tucked away in a mountain fold near the "start" of the walking track. A little discouraging to find I'd gone the wrong way, but if I had I would have missed a wonderful quiet interlude at the Shrine. I went in and climbed up to the shrine forecourt through these wonderful painted doors. It was a peaceful place broken only by the sound of worshippers chanting their prayers.
The Shrine is build on a number of levels around the mountain and as I made my way up to the chanting I was encouraged further on by a little old lady waving me up to join them. The inside of the Shrine itself was tiny and packed with a dozen or so older Koreans. The main shrine was 3 paintings with food offerings in front and the entire ceiling was painted beautiful colours and hung with row upon row of ceremonial lanterns in bright colours. It was beautiful.
Given this shrine was near the beginning of the walking track (and cable car) I decided it was obviously meant to be that I actually got the
Gate 1
Wa-Ryong-Myo Shrine Entry gate cable car up instead. The joys of being squashed into a small space with a gaggle of elderly ladies all pushing and shoving their way to ensure they got the best view. Luckily they were quite short and I could see over them.
On the top of Namsan is the N'Seoul Tower and remnants of Koreas past. There are the remains of the old Fortress Wall which used to run across all the mountains surrounding the city and remnants of it exist today on most of the mountains, but the low lying parts have disappeared. Also on Namsan are some restored chimneys which were used as signal beacons way back when.
The forecourt of the tower is dominated by a beautiful pavilion and open spaces surrounded by lots and lots of trees. As it is Autumn the colours of the trees are just beautiful as they change colours. Up the mountain the view wasn't quite as good as smog tends to ruin the view. Apparently it is best viewed in the rainy season when the smog is washed from the sky, but I did at least manage to orient myself as the windows have the distance to major
Gate 2
Wa-Ryong-Myo Shrine Entry Gate ... the other side cities around the world - Seoul - almost equidistant between Sydney and London (they didn't have Brisbane!).
As I hadn't walked up I instead decided to walk down to Namsangol - a traditional village on the starting reaches of Namsam. A couple of hours later I found it, but not before having been put to shame by an 80+ local lady who walks the mountain EVERY SINGLE DAY! My travel fitness needs to improve radically!
Namsangol is a couple of old buildings either left in place or moved to the spot in order to have a visual record of traditional houses set in gardens which replicate those from the Joseon era. The gardens are beautiful and the houses lovely, but it was a bit seen one seen them all. Although one of the houses did have some beautiful lanterns hanging from the edge ... and there's even a photo for you all!.
Take care and stay tuned for Day 2 DMZ ... stepping (just) into the lair of Kim Jong Il
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gia82
non-member comment
NEAT!
It was cool to read something done by oneself and not a tour. How kucky you were to have a good trist on your hike! Thanx for sharing!