Winchester Cathedral

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When we visited Salisbury cathedral it was pouring rain and the building seemed dark and gloomy. Therefore, our appreciation of that remarkable building was somewhat diminished. Not so with Winchester Cathedral. The day we visited was sunny and warm. The drive was pleasant. We found a parking place fairly easily as we had chosen a weekend when no big art, food or music event was taking place there. As we approached the cathedral the song, "Winchester Cathedral" kept going through my head. You know the one. The lyrics go:

"Winchester Cathedral
You're bringing me down
You stood and you watched as
My baby left town

You could have done something
But you didn't try
You didn't do nothing
You let her walk by

Now everyone knows just how much I needed that gal
She wouldn't have gone far away
If only you'd started ringing your bell

Winchester Cathedral
You're bringing me down
You stood and you watched as
My baby left town

Oh-bo-de-o-do oh-bo-de-o-do
Oh-bo-de-o-do de-do- duh"

It was a big hit for the New Vaudeville Band in the 60s. The man who sang it sounded like he had a clothespin on his nose.

When we entered the cathedral, I forgot all about the song. The interior is magnificent! The English Gothic fan vaults were flooded with streaming white light. The stone floors were a patchwork of colored light beamed in through the stained glass, Hundreds of years of history are commemorated in brass and stone plagues on the aisle walls. There are several effigies of prominent churchmen placed between the aisles and the nave. Sunlight illuminated all the colorful banners hanging from flagpoles.

When we entered the cathedral we immediately went to the aisle on the left instead of the light filled nave because we like to save the best for last. There are several grave markers on the floors and ceilings of the aisles. The most prominent is of the author, Jane Austen. The brass plaque commemorating her is huge and shiny with beautiful script (see photo) I know it means a lot to many people to see a favorite author's grave. I'm really just interested in Jane Austen's books and have enjoyed reading them. It is quite an honor to be buried in a cathedral

In the north transept is the entrance to the crypt. Almost every cathedral has one, but the public doesn't usually get to visit. The door was slightly ajar and I could see the top of a narrow stone staircase. For some reason, we hesitated to go down in the dark. A Dutch couple approached the door and seemed hesitant about entering as well. I looked at them and said, "You go down first. If you come back, we'll know it's safe to enter.' Luckily, they laughed and we entered together.

This crypt is actually a storeroom with arched ceilings, It floods a few feet when it rains. In the middle of the crypt is a sculpture of a human figure whose head is bent down to something clasped in his hands, perhaps a prayer book. The gold light illuminating the blue figure was so beautiful. I tried hard to capture it (see photo). The face has no recognizable facial features, so all who view him can imagine him as whomever they wish. The figure is called "Sound II" and was created by Anthony Gormley in 1986. Gormley's recent series of bronze figures are placed in various locations, such as on bridges and roofs in London. Tourists frequently have their photos taken with the one on Waterloo Bridge, in part because the figure is an anatomically correct, nude male.

Behind the huge, carved wood main altar (see photos) is the retroquire. The patterned red tiles on the floor date from the 12th century. They are smooth and worn by millions of footsteps. Embedded among the tiles is the gravemarker of a little girl named Sara, who died at age 6 weeks. This was one of many unexpected discoveries a visitor who keeps looking can see. Almost every available surface of the cathedral is covered. There is also a small painted wooden sculpture of Joan of Arc, a.k.a. Johanna of Orleans. I overheard some French tourists who were amazed to see her in this place. I was too, because the English had her burned at the stake. The plaque under the sculpture stated that this sculpture was placed here as an atonement for that heinous deed.

We admired the intricate carving of the high altar and quire (old spelling of choir). The brass pipes of the organ seemed to soar to the very top of the cathedral. Lucky for us, the organist was rehearsing. You can feel and hear the sound vibrating off the stone surfaces. The sunlight in the aisles and nave was glorious. The stained glass threw patches of light on the floor. I couldn't believe my luck in capturing a beautiful pattern of light and shadow just under the bottle tree sculpture (which was lit from within) It was more difficult to capture the angel from the marble tomb effigy in the south transept. The light would make the marble glow for a few minutes and then it would fade. I simply waited for the light (sounds spiritual, doesn't it?)
I was on the other side of the nave from the man reading and he didn't know I photographed him. That was fortunate because I didn't want him to become self-conscious or pose.

After touring the cathedral we sat in the park awhile just to soak up the sunshine and then went window shopping in the old town- a lovely day in what we now think is our favorite town in southern England.

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Photos

Winchester westwork
There were people sunning themselves on park benches in front of the cathedral. We spent some time there just relaxing and enjoying the day

Fan vault light
pretty impressive. I half expect to hear a choir singing

Sara's marker amid Medieval tiles
The text on the marker reads: "Heare liethe Sara the daughter of Sir Richard Tichborne & the Lady Susan his wife who departed this life on the __9 of April 1616 being six weeks of age.

Jeanne d'Arc
The figure in about 4' high and raised on pedestal that is almost 5' high. It reminds me a little of how Ingrid Bergman looked when she played Joan in a movie

Choir Bay
the bay ceiling over the choir is very different from the rest of the cathedral

High Altar
The light in this space is dim so you can't see the magnificent carving well

Retroquire with St. Swithin case
The vast space and light encourage quiet contemplation

Bottle tree
This is one of several artworks by living artists that were displayed in the cathedral. I like the idea of the present integrated with the past

Color patches
I was happy the day was sunny so I could see the patches of colored light from the stained glass

Angel
This angel is part of a marble tomb in the north transept.

Man Reading in Nave
loved the light streaming over this man in his moment of solitude

Banners in Nave
there was a bake sale this day at the front of the nave

Old Winchester
We stopped at the Snail and Lettuce Pub after our visit and did some window shopping in the old town

Comments

[Jamie]

Fabulous Photo's
Leisa These pictures are awesome.! After I read everything you wrote about your day at the Cathedral I scrolled down to look at all the pictures and I sware I felt the energy of ancient times. I felt like I was standing with you in the cathedral feeling the the vastness of this magnificent place. You are a fabulous photographer as you feel a part of what you take pictures of. Love Jamie

[Shannon]

Winchester Cathedral
Leisa your photos are beautiful. As usual your narratives well written and enlightening. It still makes me sad that I did not get there. Love, Mom